At night once me and my wife were roaming in the market to buy few things for our selves, she wondered how the grand mosque would look at night. I told her to see the mosque her self so we decided to go to the mosque at midnight once almost all the lights would be switched on. At around 11O clock at night once our son fell asleep we left our hotel room and headed towards mosque. There upon reaching we used escalators and went to first story of the mosque, we used escalators located near Bab-e-Umrah (Gate Number 62) and from there we saw the complete inner courtyard of the mosque. The scene was magnificent and ever lasting. We both were mesmerized with the spectacular view of the mosque. While looking at the Holy Kabba my wife asked about going inside Hateem, she asked me as she had not offered prayers there before. So we both came down and to our good luck at that time Hateem was not overcrowded and we found space for offering prayers there. We both prayed there and then went towards Holy Kabba and stood right under Mezab-e-Rehmat and prayed All Mighty Allah for forgiveness and mercy. We kept standing with the wall of Holy Kabba for quite some time and felt our selves extremely lucky to be touching our bodies with the most holy and sacred place in this universe. This touching of the walls of Holy Kabba while standing, gave us divine tranquility and peace of mind and soul. We stayed there for quite long and then went back to our hotel.

Our Last Day in Saudi Arabia

29 June 2005 was our last day in Saudi Arabia and we all woke up with heavy hearts, as we all knew that in few hours we should be leaving this sacred land. Last day began with normal routine and after Fajjar prayers we had our breakfast and then went back to the mosque to spend some time in front of the Holy Kabba Our contingent was scheduled to leave Saudi Arabia on night 29/30 June 2005, since our flight was at 1 AM night Saudi Arabian time therefore 30 Jun was counted as a complete day in the Umrah package. Our family members did Tawaf-e-Vida in the morning and did some shopping. In the afternoon we all were informed that half strength of the contingent would move to Jeddah at 6 PM in the evening and the other half would move at 8 PM. Our family was to leave with the group leaving at 6 PM. Buses were provided for loading of luggage at 4 PM by the contingent organizer, three buses were to move in first group to Jeddah airport. Loading started at around 4 PM and in almost one and a half hour it was complete.

Fifteen minutes before 6 O clock every one was seated in the buses and bus leaders counted people two to three times before buses started the journey on Makkah-Jeddah highway. We all had a good last look at Masjid-Al-Haram once our buses passed infront of the mosque. I kept looking at the mosque till it vanished from my eyes and then with a very heavy heart I closed my eyes so that I should be able to absorb the tears that had filled my eyes.

Jeddah Airport and Flight Back To Pakistan

We reached Jeddah airport at around 8 PM and after disembarking from the buses were surprised to know that our contingent organizer had not given our air-tickets to the bus leaders, so almost seventy people were now standing outside the airport terminal helplessly as nothing could be done. No Saudi official allowed any one to enter the terminal nor was any PIA staff available to listen our problem. At that time check in for PIA's Karachi bound flight was also in progress. At around 9 PM an official from PIA staff came out and informed us that not before 10 PM we would be allowed to enter the terminal for check in and the reason told to us was that the Karachi bound flight was leaving at 10 PM and the same set of officials had to clear that flight before letting us in. Our flight was PK - 742 scheduled to leave for Islamabad at 1 AM Saudi Arabian time. Hence we kept waiting outside for two hours and the worst thing about the airport was total absence of any sitting facility for passengers. Most of the luggage pushcarts were filled with luggage and people kept standing for more than two hours.

Finally around 10 PM other part of the contingent arrived in 2 buses and with them came the contingent organizer holding air tickets in hands. On announcement by PIA staff, we were then allowed to enter the terminal. Here a long queue was established at packing machine for getting Zamzam water plastic can packed. Staff at packing stall charged us five rayals for each plastic can packed in plastic bag. After getting plastic cans packed we went to luggage screening section where complete luggage was checked, Saudi officials worked with speed and with out creating any impediment. After screening of luggage and checking by custom officials we went to PIA counter and were amazed to find it closed. Again passengers of the PIA flight were made to stand unnecessary in the checkin area, this created a lot of problems for children as there was nothing available to feed them nor even cold water was available for drinking. People who came to Jeddah with group one were virtually thirsty and hungry since loading of buses. At last at around 11: 30 PM a member of PIA staff informed our contingent leader to call a family member from each family to show passports of all members of the family and get boarding cards. I collected eight boarding cards on behalf of my family and then deposited our baggage with the PIA staff and got baggage tags from them.

After depositing baggage we went to immigration counter, there immigration officials checked our passports and they also worked with swift pace and in just few minutes we were cleared to go to departure lounge. In the departure lounge we found a huge duty free shop with uncountable items available for purchase but prices were quite high. Since every member of my family was feeling hungry so I went to a snack bar and purchased eight donuts and seven glasses of Pepsifor them. A single donut was charged at a price of six rayals and a glass of Pepsi was sold at seven rayals a glass. By eating donuts and drinking Pepsi we quenched our thirst and hunger.We kept sitting in the lounge till fifteen minutes past midnight and then were told to proceed to the aircraft.

Before boarding the aircraft our passports were rechecked by the Saudi officials, and were then allowed to board the aircraft. Aircraft took off from Jeddah at 1 AM Saudi Arabian time (3 AM Pakistan Standard Time). Flight to Islamabad was again of 5 hours and was very tiring; thanks to All Mighty Allah our son remained well during the flight and kept sleeping till aircraft landed at Islamabad airport at 8 AM Pakistan standard time. Flight was comfortable but courtesy of cabin crew needed a lot of improvement as I found most of the male members of cabin crew shouting at people, another amazing thing was the we were served with the dinner at 2 AM in the night. I wish that airline should look into the matter and instead of providing a very late dinner; it should provide an early breakfast to the passengers.

Here in Pakistan we were again made to suffer in long queues infront of immigration desks. Here Pakistani officials were working at a very slow pace and they were clearing simultaneously two flights. One flight was ours and other was a PIA's flight that had arrived from London at the same time. Ultimately after three hours my complete family passed through immigration counters and then we collected our baggage from the baggage collection lounge. Pakistani Customs Officials were quite nice and supporting and with out causing any unnecessary delay we were cleared to go out. Finally at around 12 PM we all family members were out of terminal. Here our drivers who had brought the cars from my home were waiting for us. My in-laws at that point departed from us, as they had to leave for Karachi by another flight at 3 PM same day.

After bidding farewell to them, we all went to our home and thus our fifteen days journey was over. This visit to Saudi Arabia was very hectic and tiring but I after undertaking it can proudly say that it is worth every thing. If one has time and resources, then one must visit the house of All Mighty Allah and the city of his most loved Prophet Muhammad (PBUH). I still cherish the memories I have brought from there and pray that All Mighty Allah may grant permission to me and my family to be there once again and I am very much hopeful that my prayers would be heard and accepted by All Mighty Allah very soon.

Offering Jummah (Friday) prayers in Al-Haram Mosque is a unique experience as almost complete population of Mecca city and surrounding areas reach the holy mosque to offer prayers. Once we went to Saudi Arabia the Friday prayers were held at 1 PM and we went to the mosque at 11 AM to get a place in the shade and to our luck we found place at the rear in the building. People who came late they got place in the outer courtyard and in the sun. Almost at each prayer mosque is full with people and is normally overcrowded at Fajar and Maghrib prayers.

Jumma prayers were lead by Imam Kaaba Sheikh Abdur Rehman Al Sadees and it was a unique experience to listen to the recitation of Holy Qurran during the prayers by him. His sweet voice had a charming effect on all attending the prayers. Best sound system has been installed in the mosque. The pitch and quality of the sound remains the same through out the mosque. We all family members were very happy to had availed this unique opportunity.

A good thing about Saudi Arabia is that at time of prayers all type of business comes to a halt, and shopkeepers close shops till the time prayers are offered. All buyers are encouraged to leave the shop at that time. During my stay at Saudi Arabia, except jewelry shops I never found any shop being locked, only shopkeeper would put a cloth in-front of his shop or at best put a chair or piece of cardboard in front. After prayers shops would open again, markets fills up with customers and shopping spree continues as usual.

I also found street vendors mostly from African countries selling low quality merchandise in the main streets after the prayers and they would flee in the narrow streets after seeing police patrol. These street vendors sell the same products that are available in the main shops but are of inferior quality, it seemed that China has taken over market every where. Mostly people from subcontinent and Africa having limited budget for shopping are often found buying things from these vendors. Mostly these people sell handbags, wrist watches, cut pieces of cloth and sweets

Some Important Statistics of Masjid-ul-Haram

For the benefit of the readers some important statistics of the mosque have been given for general knowledge.

Al Taneem (Masjid-e-Ayesha)

A beautiful mosque located in "Al Hil", and it is about four miles away from the Holy Kabba between Mecca and Medina, and it is the Miqat for Mecca people and those coming to Mecca whether for Hajj, Umrah or residency. This is quite a big mosque with superb facilities for bath, ablution and changing, available for pilgrims and those who come to offer regular prayers. Once we went there our taxi driver charged as 25 royals for a round trip and waiting for us outside the mosque.

Arafat

It is a very large yard outside the boundaries of Al Haram Mosque, and is situated about 25 kilometers from Mecca. The pilgrims go there on the 9th day of Zil-Hajj until the sunset, and then they go to Muzdalefah. Standing in Arafat is one of the main pillars of Hajj, and it is considered that those who do not stand in Arafat did not do Hajj. Several mountains from east, north and south surround Arafat, and the most famous of them is Al-Rahmat Mountain, on its foothill, the Holy Prophet, may the peace and blessing of Allah be upon him, stayed in his farewell Hajj. Here in this yard we found a lot of people selling low quality cheap priced merchandise, mostly these people were Africans and Pakistanis. We also found camels and horses available for riding, mostly foreigners were found riding these animals and price for a single ride was quite high.

Mina

A valley between two mountains east of Mecca, it is situated about five kilometers from Al Haram Mosque, where the Satan showed up three times to misguide Prophet Ibrahim (PBUH) from sacrificing his son. Here in Mina the Prophet Ibrahim (PBUH) threw stones at him, thus starting the obligation and ritual of stoning the three Jamrahs (stone pillars indicating places where Satan appeared). Muslims go to Mina to throw stones at these Jamrahs, slaughter animals, and stay there during the Hajj.

Al Muzdalefah

It is a place between Mina and Arafat where people come to, after standing in Arafat. It has a small mountain called Qazah that is shaped like a horn, where the Imam of the Hajj stands and speaks to the people as the Prophet did, and it is called Al Masha'r Al Haram, and a mosque has also been built here.

Masjid-e-Masha'r Al Haram

This Al Masha'r Al Haram mosque is also called Qazeh, and is the place where the Prophet (PBUH), gave his sermon, which became a must follow practice after that. The Imam of Hajj stands in the Masha'r and gives the Hajj sermon.

Birthplace Of The Holy Prophet (PBUH)

The house in which Holy Prophet (PBUH) was born is situated very near the Al Haram Mosque towards Marva gate. It is almost at a walking distance of 5 to 6 minutes from the main mosque and one can easily reach there. At present the house is not there but a public library has been established there. On the front door of the library a signboard has been erected indicated the name of the library as “Maktab Al Mecca Tul Mukarrama”.

Jannat Ul Mua'lla

It is the cemetery of the people of Mecca, and it is on the way to Mina, The grave of Um-Al-Momeneen Bibi Khadija (the first wife of Holy Prophet) and that of,Prophets's son Qasim, Asma Bint AbuBaker, Abu-Talib, Abdullah Bin Zubair, and other members of the Holy Prophet's family, may Allah be pleased with them all, are located in this cemetery. This cemetery is located near the Al Haram Mosque and one can easily go there to pay homage and respect to the people buried there. There are two sections of this cemetery. One section contains old graves while the other contains new graves and these are the graves of ordinary citizens. This cemetery is also known as Al-Hajun. The Holy Prophet (PBUH) used to visit it frequently. It is the 2nd holiest graveyard of Islam after Jannat-ul-Baqi (Baqi Graveyard).

After visiting Jannat ul Mualla we came back to our hotel and had rest, our trip was over in just above two hours time. We had also planned to visit the old graveyard of Mecca where daughters, young and new born, were buried alive in old ages but we both were not able to find enough courage to go there, therefore we cut our visit short and came back.

While at Madinah father and my self went towards Jannat-ul-Baqi (Baqi Graveyard) to offer prayers for the Muslims buried there. This graveyard holds equal importance for all sects of Islam therefore it is always crowded by pilgrims but the Saudi government has imposed timings for visiting the graveyard. The timings for the visit are from Fajar prayers till 10 AM and then from Asar prayers till half an hour before Maghrib prayers and women are not allowed to visit the graveyard. In the graveyard once we entered from the main gate we found that on right side the area was blocked with the help of iron grill and pilgrims were standing with the grill and praying, most of the pilgrims were of Iranian origin. We found out that beyond this grill there were the graves of Imam Hassan, Imam Zain ul Abideen, Imam Jaffer, Imam Baqir, Hazarat Abbass and Bibi Fatima (Daughter of Holy Prophet). We both prayed there and then moved to other parts of the graveyard. We there found graves of Wives, Daughters and son Ibrahim of Holy Prophet and then visited the grave of his aunts Safia and Atiqa.

We also visited graves of third Caliph Usman Bin Affan (RA) and Bibi Halima who was Holy Prophet's maid in the childhood. In Baqi graveyard policemen were also present both inside and outside the graveyard and were having a very keen eye on pilgrims. They did not allow people to take cameras inside the graveyard nor allowed any one to morn at the graves of Imams, still I saw people taking photographs of graves with mobile phones having cameras installed in them. Women normally stand with the wall of the graveyard and look through the holes in the wall; they are only permitted to stand with the wall and are strictly prohibited to enter the graveyard. There is no information available regarding graves or people who are buried there neither any Arabic speaking official would tell, if asked. Whatever information is available, it has been communicated through other pilgrims especially Iranians who have mostly fairly good knowledge about the graves of important people buried there.

Riaz-ul-Jannah

It is a saying of Holy Prophet (PBUH) that “There is garden of paradise in area between my house and my sermon giving place (Mimber) in the Mosque”. Most of the Islamic scholars agree that this place is a gift from All Mighty Allah to the Holy Prophet (PBUH) the way he gifted Prophet Ibrahim with two stones from Paradise and those stones were Hijra-e-Aswad (Black Stone) and Muqam-e-Ibrahim (Station of Ibrahim). It is important that one should strive to offer Nawafils at Riaz-ul-Jannah and if possible should offer regular prayers there. One should feel him-self lucky if he gets a chance to offer regular prayers there as the area is quite small and is always full with pilgrims and locals offering Nawafils there. By the grace of All Mighty Allah my father and myself offered Nawafils there twice. I there saw people pushing each other to get a place there during regular prayers, but in Prophet's Mosque one should avoid doing such things, which are equivalent to disrespecting Holy Prophet (PBUH) or his teachings.

Important Pillars of The Mosque.

Although the complete Mosque is holy but few pillars are important and have historical significance and these are as following :

1. Pillar of Hannana (Astawana Hannana).
2. Pillar of Ayesha (Astawana Ayesha).
3. Pillar of Mercy (Astawana Tooba)
4. Pillar of Sarrer (Astawana Sarrer)
5. Pillar of Ali (Astawana Ali)
6. Pillar of Delegations (Astawana Wafood)
7. Pillar of Morning rayers (Astawana Tahajad)
8. Station of Angel Jibrael (Gabriel) *
9. Station of the Companions (Sufha-e-Sahaba)*

*Both these places are important, but are not pillars.

Masjid-e-Nabvi has an engineering marvel incorporated in its construction and that is the use of Floating Domes technique in the ceiling. A total of twenty-seven courtyards have been made in the mosque building and each has been covered with a floating dome. These domes have been specifically designed to evade suffocation by the pilgrims once the mosque is overcrowded. These domes can be moved from their places to let fresh air come in. This concept of floating domes was given during reconstruction of the mosque by Chief Architect of the project Doctor Kamal Ismael and were designed by a German Muslim engineer Mr Mehmood and the design was approved by than King Fahad Bin Abdul Aziz. For the benefit and comfort of pilgrims offering prayers in the courtyard of the mosque or out side the main building huge electronic umbrellas have been installed. When the sun is shinning at its peak these electronic umbrellas provide cool shade to the pilgrims sitting under them.

Masjid-e-Nabvi is centrally air-conditioned and the chilling unit for the mosque has been constructed outside the city and from there chilled air is pumped to the mosque through pipes. This whole cooling system is based upon cooling the air through chilled water. A comprehensive supply system for provision of Zamzam water has been established in the mosque and all pilgrims can take Zamzam water for personal usage from the supply point established. Zamzam water is provided within the premises of the mosque and is shipped from Makkah to Medina Munawarra through huge water tankers. Zamzam water is also available inside the mosque building in plastic water coolers. Big underground ablution / bath areas have been constructed around the main mosque and people can go to the areas by using stairs or escalators. Ablution / bath areas for men and women are separate.

International restaurants brands like KFC, Mc Donald's, Pizza Hut and Dominos have their franchised branches operational there. A local brand Al-Bake restaurant is also operative on the lines of KFC, its branches are present in both the cities and its rates are also cheaper as compared to KFC while the service and quality of food is almost the same.

As far as variety in the food is concerned, almost all Pakistani restaurants offer a hefty quantity of dishes on their menu cards and are also reasonably priced as well. In Saudi Arabia bread (called Rotti in Urdu) is provided free of cost with curry, normally with one packet of curry three loafs of bread are provided, and extra, if required, can also be provided without any charges at few hotels. I found that mutton meal was cheaper than beef meal and beef BBQ products were more costly than chicken BBQ products. There one can easily buy a full BBQ or roasted chicken for just ten rayals where as a packet of beef / mutton curry would cost six rayals. Quantity of curry in a single packet is enough to serve three persons. At different shops and snack bars, fast food is also available and for a change in taste one can try Burgers (Beef/Chicken/Mutton), Fish and Chips, Shawarma (Arabic Dish), Milk Shake and Sandwiches.

As far as sweet dish or dessert is concerned Sweet Rice (Zarda) and Milk Rice Sweet (Kheer) are available at all Pakistani or Indian restaurants. I also found Pakistani sweet-marts in both the cities. One can do self-cooking as well if time is available, fresh vegetables and all qualities of meat are available in the markets at affordable prices and almost all hotels also provide the facility of electric stoves with each room or suit.

All types of 250 / 300 milliliters (ml) juices packs and cold drinks canes are sold at the rate one rayal each irrespective of the brand name. Fresh curd drink (called Laban there) is available at two rayals for a pack; during peak heat hours this curd drink not only gives a refreshing taste it also keeps the drinker cool. Best quality freshly packed milk is available at two rayals a packet and the packet is of five hundred milliliters. Smaller or larger packets of milk are also available in the market at different prices. Ice cream and packed cooked custard made with pure milk is also available in plenty at all grocery and general stores, shops and marts.

This packed custard is very helpful in feeding children who sometimes refuse to eat regular meals and is also available in different flavors, mostly at all shops I found it chilled. Drinking water is available at the rate one liter bottle for two rayals, two liters bottle for three rayals and five liters bottle for five rayals. We only bought bottled water for cooking food for our son or for making tea; otherwise we used Zamzam water for drinking purposes throughout our stay at Mecca and Medina Munawarra.

Dates are an essential gift that one should take along home after departing from Saudi Arabia. Mostly different qualities of dates are available at both the holy cities but the rates of dates are much reasonable at Medina Munawarra as compared to Mecca. Dates with prices ranging from five rayals a kilogram to eighty rayals a kilogram are available in almost all markets. Special individually packed dates, chocolate-coated dates, almond or pistachio centered dates, dried dates, dates coated with cashew nuts and date sweet-dish (Halwa) are also available in the markets.

Most expensive dates available in the market are Ajwa and Amber having price ranging between sixty rayals to eighty rayals. Ajwa date is good for health particularly heart and heart related diseases. Even the seed of this date, after grinding, is used as a medicine for curing certain heart related health problems.