The water system consists of a fresh water tank, pump, and waterlines with fixtures. The hot water tank is in this system and usually heated with propane or electricity. The water tank is setup so you can connect to the city water system when you are in camp. On the road, if your water tank has water in it then you would use the pump to flush or faucet for drinking. When you are connected to the city water you do not need the pump to keep the water pressure up in the system.

Pictured above are the city water connection and the water tank with outside shower. You can see the water tank, water lines, pump (hidden in the pit) and outside sink with shower. The water tank has sensors that send the water level information up to the RV.

When you are traveling and pull into the campgrounds the last thing you want to do is drag wood out to level your rig. The automatic jacks do a wonderful job of accomplishing the leveling of the motor home. One reason you need to be level, is for the refrigerator to operate correctly. The jack's location on this rig has two kick-down jacks in the front and two in the rear.

The jacks are automatic leveling and operated from inside the motor home. It is a good idea to have a leveling bubble mounted near the refrigerator for easy reading.

The next system is the generator, which is located on the rear side of the motor home.

The generator is an Onan 7000, with a rating of 6.5 k watts, which will allow you to run both the front and rear air conditioners at the same time. The generator can be started inside the motor home or at the generator itself. The generator comes in handy, if you are dry camping and need some electricity. It gets it's fuel out of the same gas tank as the motor home but has a shut of level so you done run out of gas.

There is ample storage inside the motor home and down in the basement compartments for all the stuff you need to take along. Now the wife will have another opinion on that subject.

I think we are about ready to hit the road and start on our voyage across this country from Florida to Oregon by way of the southern route. So hang on and away we go!

Let's start with the different systems and not get to technical with the operation of them. First one will be the propane system, without propane you have no hot water or heat in this model (Pace Arrow).

The propane tank is located below the basement compartment. In the above picture, you can see the propane cylinder setting in a milk carton. The propane cylinder is placed in the milk carton so it will not tip over so easy. The propane cylinder is used for long stays at RV parks. The propane cylinder is attached to the extend-a-stay valve that you can buy at any RV store. The setup you see in the picture, allows you to use the propane in the cylinder, instead of the built in tank (gray tank) on the motor home. This way you don't have to move the motor home to fill the propane tank. The built in tank holds 40 pounds of propane and the cylinder is called a 20 pounder (17.7).

The spare tire is stored in the front compartment with the edge of the shelf slanted down for easy access to slide the tire out. This compartment has space for storing other things too.

The next system is the black and gray water system. This system is what it says it is, black water being the toilet and gray water is all the other water that goes down the drain. The black and gray water have two tanks, one for gray water and one for black water. This system is located in the basement area, usually underneath the bathroom. The black tank is under the toilet and the gray tank is beside the black tank.

The pictures are showing the level sensors on the black tank. The gray tank has level sensors, which show the levels on the gages inside the motor home. The open and close valves on both tanks are located in the tank area and a sewer hose is attached for empting the tanks. The gray water is dumped thru the same sewer hose and is first to dump then the black tank is emptied. I installed a tank-washing nozzle. It is mounted directly thru the black water tank, an inch below the top of the tank and close to the sensors. The valve on the black tank must be closed and about an inch of water with chemicals added, needs to be in the tank before it is used. I had a sewer hose supporter, which keeps the hose from moving all over the place when you dump the tanks.

I had a sewer hose supporter, which keeps the hose from moving all over the place when you dump the tanks. There is a hub that thread into the hub of the sewer pipe to eliminate the odor. The sewer hose is one thing you do not want to have a problem with while in operation of the dumping of the tanks. The sewer hose comes in different lengths, which you will want to have enough hose to reach at all locations.

There are odor prevention components that fit around the hose and then into the sewer hub in the ground if the hub is not threaded. The component is called a donut and is available at RV stores. There are chemicals for the black and gray water tanks for odor problems and if you use regular toilet paper to dissolve it. There is a light toilet paper that will dissolve with regular chemicals for the black tank. The gray water tank needs deodorizer for drain odors. You can flush the black and gray water tanks by running water thru the sinks and toilet. It is easier to flush if you have the tank-flushing nozzle installed on the tanks. The lubrication can in the black and gray water compartment is sprayed onto the valve handle rod to keep the slide valves sliding freely. Spray the handle rod each time you dump or open the valve. You can leave the gray water valve open if you wish when in camp.

The next system will be the drinking water system so until then hope this helps someone out.