Baguio was my stopping point to wear off the jet lag. Once a small mountain resort, it is now a large metropolis with about 250,000 inhabitants which include college students and wealthy Manila residents escaping from the muggy lowlands. The main thoroughfare is Session road that runs about five blocks ending at Baguio market. I discovered the three square kilometer market has a life of its own that begins at dawn as I wandered through the maze of stalls, looking for a bakery to buy pan de sal, (a plain roll with a crispy crust). Bread must be bought daily here, just like the vegetables and meat.

The route to the Mountain province is Halsema highway and as of this writing, remains under construction, so expect a bumpy ride through a winding and narrow thoroughfare, that sometimes takes the vehicle to the edge. The road is scheduled for completion June 2005 but politicians have made promises such as these before that remain unfulfilled.

When you see clouds enfold the mountains below the highway you realize that this journey was not in vain. A stop at a roadside cafe offers not only a view but five tasty dishes, fresh stir fry vegetables, pork adobo (stew cooked with soy and vinegar), grilled pork, ginger chicken stew, and beef soup. After lunch, stand at the edge and marvel at the agricultural niches of potatoes, cabbage, and other vegetables framed by yet more pine trees, wild trumpet vines and bougainvilleas.

Bontoc

Bontoc, capital of the Mountain provinces, is a central point to Banaue and other destinations. Surrounded by rice terraces and situated in a lush valley along the Chico river, the view from the Bishop's house, a Catholic sanctuary, did not reveal the city's hectic bustle of activity. Run by Sister Dolores, the Catholic sanctum sits on a hilltop above Bontoc, where people come from around the globe to hold seminars, otherwise, travelers hear about it through word of mouth. She advised, “the best time for a lengthy stay is between July and September.” Also the hotter rainy months and harvest season. Despite the sweltering weather, it's worth a visit to participate in the festivals as well as to photograph the terraces that have metamorphosed from a brilliant green to yellowish gold.

Malickong Terraces

About two hours from Bontoc are the generations old Malickong terraces, where I hiked deep into its center following a pathway that led to the village. The local dialect is Illacano, in which I managed to make simple greetings, enough to soften suspicious glances. My meager use of phrases was enough to reward me with a smile, though rarely a pose. One elder woman remarked that she didn't want to show her “ugly” face, not realizing how beautiful she looked in her makeshift headress and bright clothing.

One of the few elders who spoke English remarked, his face worn from years of tending to the rice, “the young people do not want to stay in the village. They go to work in the city or go to school. When we are gone there will be no one to care for these terraces.”

Another woman sadly told me, “the price of education is the loss of our culture.”

Sagada

Sagada was home of Edward Masferre, reknown photographer of the Igorots. He photographed the Igorots from the 1930s until his death in 1995. Through the Smithsonian Institute, his photographs toured the U.S and Europe in the early 1990s. His wife, Nena, displays his photographs in her home at the edge of town as you enter Sagada, marked by a small sign at the doorway, "Masferre Photographs".

Sagada weather dips several degrees, especially at night. Quieter then Bontoc, it's also more pristine. Saturday is market day, a time to buy fresh vegetables, meat, and fish, along with other necessities. If you need a diversion from the quiet ambience, take an adventurous detour to explore the Samaguing limestone caves (a guide is necessary and can be hired at the municipal hall). Some athletic ability is required for the more strenous spelunking sections of the cave. Expect to wade through waist deep water and climb fifteen feet boulders with knotted ropes to find yourself in a three feet tunnel whose floor is pooled in uneven water depths. After briefly crawling through this tunnel, stop to admire immense unusual rock formations while carefully balancing over slippery limestone. Wear rubber slippers or go with bare feet, for shoes do not adhere well to these rocks.

The strange hanging coffins are displayed just outside of another set of caves near the limestone caverns. This was a burial ritual of the past to preserve the spirit or keep the spirit “near.” Our guide explained, “a ritual ceremony had to be performed prior to allowing visitors to view the coffins so not to anger the spirits.” When visiting, remember the area is considered sacred and public viewing is a priviledge.

Banaue

Banaue rice terraces are agricultural marvels that have been described as the “eighth wonder of the world.” The narrow rice fields are embedded in the steep mountainsides, unlike the spread out Malickong. Because the mountains were carved into terraces, the pitch of each terrace wall increases accordingly, sometimes reaching as high as twenty feet. The traditional agricultural farming of rice as being practiced in Banaue is year round, yielding only one harvest season per year. Care of the rice is exhausting work that is constant throughout the year, from planting through post harvest, when the fields, still in water, must be manually spaded and the soil heaped on mounds. Let alone working a field on a steep mountain edge.

Sadly, the presence of Igorot life in and around Banaue, as Masferre had captured in his photographs, has disappeared except for the precious few elders. The Banaue Rice Terraces Task Force was eliminated in 2002 by President Gloria Macapagal Arroyo, the current president. Scientists dedicated to preserve the terraces are left with only the support that comes from UNESCO's designation of the terraces on the World Heritage Danger list, in hopes to gain attention. Without government or foreign intervention, it is speculated that the culture will disappear within ten years. Even the betterment of Halsema highway has not been given enough priority, as it is a primary access road.

I remember the innocent smiles and faces of the people with whom I interacted and it was a priviledge to witness what was described at the 1995 World Heritage meeting as “an illustration of a remarkable harmony between humankind and natural environment.”

Practical Information

Transportation: You can catch a flight on Asian Spirit (P1800) or bus (P285) from Manila. From Baguio, there are buses to Bontoc (P186) then from Bontoc, you can catch a jeepney or bus to Banaue (P80) or Sagada (P25). While in Baguio, taxis can be waved down practically anywhere but the jeepneys (P4.25) are mostly situated around Baguio Market or across the stree at Burnham Park. To reach Malickong, two hours from Bontoc, catch a jeepney for P25.

Accommodations

Baguio has decent hotels in and around Session road. Burnham Hotel (442-2331) is two blocks from Session Road for P1100 per night. Munsayac Inn is in a quieter section on Leonard Rd. (442-2451) for P950.

Bontoc

Bishop's House (003-583-541) is P450 per person, which includes three home cooked meals and two snacks. Call a month in advance. Best time for availability is mid-week or during the months of July through September.

Sagada

St. Joseph's Resthouse (004-036-975) has cottages in a garden setting overlooking Sagada at P1500 per room.

Banaue

Banaue Hostel and Hotel (002-386-4087) has a fantastic view of the terraces. Hostels are P200 a night and rooms are P1200.

When To Go:

The seasons are either rainy or dry; the former begins in May through September and also the hottest months. Most Filipinos living abroad return during the festive Christmas season resulting in higher plane rates unlike the months of January through March when the fares drop.