However, summer isn't the only time of year when things happen there. The Island doesn't hibernate all winter just waiting for the next season to begin, well not completely anyway. Some of the months there, outside of the normal tourist season, are still warm and sunny, especially November, March and April. The latter is our springtime when a vast numbers of wild flowers, such as, the Campanula versicolor and the Wild Orchid, Ophrys tenthredinifera are plentiful and blanket this exquisite isle in a myriad of color.

The winter months of December, January and February are particularly cold and rainy but can still boast the occasional sunny and warm day. I have found myself sitting in a friend's garden, enjoying a local beer in nothing but a T-shirt and jeans in the middle of January. You wouldn't catch me going for a swim though. The temperature of the surrounding sea drops quite a bit and even on the warmest of days can be very chill. There are some, however, who are not put off by the chill.

In the year of 2006 the small historic town of Lixouri, on Kefalonia's western peninsula hosted Greece's, 2nd most popular, winter, open-sea swimming event. Mentor is a 5km marathon from the harbor of Lixouri across the gulf to the Theodore lighthouse in Lassi and back again. The event itself was the brainchild of local government and is sponsored by many local businesses. It was introduced as a means of bringing people from different nations together and to promote the Island itself.

In its 3rd year, Mentor sparked interest from swimmers all over the world, including Hungary, America and Turkey and this year also boasted the first female contenders. So, on January 6th 2006, at 9.30am, 19 swimmers decided to throw themselves into the chill waters (at 13C) to test their endurance. On this day also falls Epiphany (Holy Light), a religious Greek Orthodox celebration, where a small group of young men also decide to throw themselves into the chill waters in order to catch a holy cross thrown from on high by one the local Priests.

The day itself was cold and cloudy with the occasional peep of sunshine and the very real threat of rain from the dark Cumulo Nimbus clouds circulating around the top of Mount Enos (our highest peak). Needless to say, because of the cold conditions a number of support boats accompanied all the swimmers throughout the duration of the event and warm blankets and drinks were on hand for them on their return. The harbour side was filled with spectators, local dignitaries, journalists, photographers and ET1, one of Greece's national TV stations. All had come to watch the Mentor swimmers make their first jump into the chill harbor waters. The cold proved too much for 3 contenders who were rescued by 1 of the 2 safety boats on call that day.

The first to finish was America's World Champion, Jay Benner, in a time of 1 hr 20 mins, second was the lone Hungarian entrant (who won last years event) and third, Aristo Lassus from Larissa. The first female to finish came in sixth. All in all 16 out of the 19 entrants finished, the last few, unfortunately being caught in the sudden downpour as the heavens finally decided to open. The rain continued to fall for the rest of the afternoon as rivers of water flowed down the streets, at least the rental car had a good clean, which was well overdue.

We all met up for lunch at the Apolafsi Hotel and Restaurant, just outside of town and very close to, Lepeda, one of Lixouri's finest beaches and it was here that I managed to catch up with the winner, Jay Benner. From Tacoma in Washington State where he lives with his wife and little girl, Jay started swimming competitively from the age of 10 and spent 8 years on the World Champion Pool Racing Circuit, which is where he gained his World Champion title. It wasn't until 1993 that Jay decided to move his swimming from the pool to the open sea. He has visited Greece 9 times for summer racing events, including the 30km marathon across the Messinian gulf at Kalamata, which he has taken part in 4 times.

Mentor, however, was the first winter event he had taken part in and marked his 10th visit here and his return to swimming. To have a World Champion like Jay Benner and also entrants from neighbouring Turkey (whose relations with

Greece have had there problems in the past) come to Kefalonia and take part in Mentor has given the Island and the people here a real boost.

There are other celebrations that take place before May, when the main tourism season starts. Greek Independence Day, which falls on the 25th March, is one. One this day there is music and festivities all over the Island, the biggest of which, happen in Argostoli and Lixouri, the two main towns. Each town has a Parade in celebration of this day, which all the children take part in.

Easter is another and probably the biggest event of all but often prior to this religious celebration is the Carnival. All the surrounding villages take part; each has their own themed float and all participants are in fancy dress. This tradition arose from the period when the Turks occupied the Island. The Greeks were banned from conducting these celebrations during this time and so any religious festivities had to be celebrated in secret. Because the locals were driven under cover they were forced to disguise themselves, lest they be recognized. And so fancy dress became a part of the custom and tradition of many Greek events. It is a wonderful event with children and adults all dressed in a variety of colors, there's music and traditional dancing and generally an air of excitement and joy, a must to witness for any visitor.

The 23rd April is another important day in the Greek calendar and elsewhere. This is St George's Day but also happens to be the National day of Greece. Again there are celebrations, music and small marches to commemorate this day.

So, as you see, life after tourism does exist on this somewhat sleepy Island and it is still possible to get here during the winter. Ok, so it means taking 2 flights, one to Athens and then a hopper to Kefalonia but with the price of Easy Jet flights these days, this can be done for about the same money you would pay in the summer.

The other alternative of course is the 1 flight option to Athens, then a 3-hour coach drive to Patra, a 3-hour ferry ride to Sami (on Kefalonia's East coast) and then no more then an hours coach drive to any part of the Island you may choose. A long haul you may think, but I have made this journey and it's not as bad as it may sound, it's much cheaper for a start. The coach, plus ferry fare is about 32 euros one-way and at least this way you get to see some of Athens and its surrounding towns and countryside.

The ferry is also very comfortable, with good, large couches to lounge on and food and drinks available from the café-bar on board. You get to see some of the wonderful small islets that abound the Ionian Sea and coming to Kefalonia out of season can give you a much better insight into the lives and culture of the people here. Life on a sleepy winter Island can be a wonderful experience. Kefalonia is an Island to be enjoyed at any time of year.

Lixouri town

The small historic town of Lixouri, the Palaki's main town, lies in the lowlands beneath the glorious mountains and looks out over the pure blue waters of the gulf. The current location of Lixouri is very close to the original site of the ancient city of Pali, of which little now remains due to the earthquake that devastated much of the island in 1953. Lixouri is a beautiful town and its hillside villages have much to offer the tourist looking for a more cultural, relaxed and tranquil holiday. The town square, or platia, as the Greeks call it, is the perfect place to sit back and relax while you indulge in some cool refreshments and a great spot for basking in the everlasting Kefalonian sunshine. A beautiful and majestic tree holds pride of place in the centre of the square and offers shade to the children who play beneath its canopy. The streets of Lixouri are packed with shops where you will find a wealth of gifts to purchase and wonderful restaurants where you can rest and eat.

Places to visit

You could also visit the local museum and library, which is housed in one of the few remaining old Venetian buildings left on the Paliki. The museum houses a wonderful collection of icons and religious artifacts. The monastery at Kipouria is also a must for any tourist visiting the Palaki. It lies on the edge of the western coast not far from Platia Ammos beach, about 10km out of Lixouri and is built on the cusp of the mountainside. To sit within its grounds and look out over the vast expanse of the Ionian Sea is a serene experience. The peace and tranquillity of this place transcends you into a dreamlike state where all the worries of the world simply drift away over the clear blue waters. You leave feeling cleansed and revitalized. It's better then any spa I've ever been to, that's for sure.

Another place on the northern edge of the Paliki that holds this dream like quality is the small cove at Atheras, about 12km out of Lixouri. The cove is surrounded on two sides by steep, olive covered hillsides, the beach a combination of white sand and small shingle; the water is calm, shallow and of the clearest blue. There are rocks to the left, which are perfect for crabbing and further along in the deeper water a small cave and local fishing boats, great for snorkeling. There is a small taverna set back amoungst the trees with everything you need. It is without a doubt the most beautiful of beaches and its well worth hiring a car or taking a taxi drive out to spend a day experiencing its tranquil glory.

There are many other beaches on the Paliki and all of them hold their own enchantments. Xi and Megos Lakos abound the southern end of the peninsula. The Saharan red sand of Xi holds a sharp contrast with its white clay hills. You'll often find small rocks of clay in the shallow waters, which can be rubbed onto the body and once washed off leaves your skin soft and smooth. That has to be one the best ways to exfoliate. The golden shores of Megos Lakos adjoin the red of Xi. Both have a number of water sports available during the high season and refreshments and food are always near at hand. Ag. Nikolas at Vatsa bay and Vrahirani are two smaller and much less populated beaches on the Paliki's southern shores. Both boast tavernas but it has to be said that Vatsa's rustic, almost Caribbean like atmosphere is by far the best. The food here is also very good and although expensive the fish is a must.

A short distance out of Lixouri covering the eastern and southern coastline is Lepeda beach. The golden sands of Lepeda look out towards the tourist town of Lassi, near the Islands capital, Argostoli. There is a small kafanion with food and refreshments on hand. To the left the golden sands house a small rock pool and shallower waters. About 10km west out of Lixouri is Petani beach. A beautiful place edged on both sides by the steep mountainous terrain and a perfect place to watch the sun set. The beach itself is made up of small shingle and white sand and there are rocks on the shore, which are great for playing hide and seek. Out of season a small fresh water natural

stream runs down the beach and into the sea. The clear mountain water from it is fantastically cold and fresh. There are two tavernas here, the first is the better of the two where the food is very good, cheap and the family who run it and very friendly.

Other activities

For those of you wanting something more idyllic there are plenty of small coves with sandy beaches that can be accessed only by boat. It can be a little expensive but what a way to spend the day, picnicking and swimming on your own private beach! There are sailing holidays available on the Paliki too and these are fantastic. It's by far the best way to experience this beautiful Island, enjoying first hand the vast beauty of the rocky coastline and normally inaccessible beaches. You also learn how to sail and will be free to take yourselves off on your own adventures. For those of you who love to walk the Paliki is a paradise of flora and fauna, majestic monasteries, historic ruins, and panoramic landscapes. If you enjoy trekking but don't like walking a great way to get around and view the delights of the Paliki is on horseback. All the trekking experience but without the blisters! Excellent!

For those of you with a more romantic soul viewing a sunset is a must. The best places for this are all along the western coast, the monastery at Kipouria, Platia Ammos and Petani Beaches, but the best place of all in my opinion is the small mountain village of Damoulianata, a 15-minute drive from Lixouri. This picturesque village has a small open square with benches that face out towards an amazing panoramic seascape. It's a quiet, tranquil place to sit and absorb the exquisite beauty and romance of the sun slowly descending into

the deep dark blue water of the Ionian. In high season the nearby taverna opens and is a perfect place to dine with a view to die for. However you decide to spend your time, the grace and splendour of this beautiful part of Kefalonia is yours to be enjoyed. It is indeed the uncut jewel of the Ionian Sea.