This astonishing castle is situated in the beautiful countryside of County Mayo and is in the heart of Ireland's most spectacular scenery. Ashford was found in 1228 by the Anglo-Norman de Burgo family after they defeated the native O'Connors of Connaught. The de Burgo's built several such castles throughout the province but Ashford remained their principal stronghold. 3D tours and virtual tours of the castle is available on their website.

Dromoland Castle

Dromoland Castle is situated in the west of Ireland just a stone throw away from the mighty Shannon River and the unique rugged landscape of The Burren. Dromoland Castle, one of the most famous baronial castles in Ireland, was the ancestral home of the O'Briens, Barons of Inchiquin, who are one of the few native Gaelic families of royal blood and direct descendants of Brian Boroimhe (Boru) High King of Ireland in the eleventh century. 3D tours of the castle is available on their website.

Ballyseede Castle

Ballyseede Castle is located on its own thirty acres of gardens and woodland in Tralee County Kerry. Ballyseede Castle was the chief garrison of the legendary Fitzgerald's, Earls of Desmond, many of whom refused to swear allegiance to the crown, which resulted in the infamous Geraldine Wars that continued intermittently for three centuries and concluded with the beheading of Gerald, 16th Earl, in the Demesne of Ballyseede and whose head was exhibited in a cage on London Bridge. A picture gallery of the castle is available on their website.

Fanningstown Castle

Fanningstown Castle is situated in the fertile valley of the river Maigue, in Co. Limerick near the picturesque village of Adare. It lies in the barony of Coshma (Coshmagh) which, meaning "Foot of the Plain" or "Bank of the Maigue," describes this location. The area of the barony coincides with the territory of the Celtic people, the Ui Cairbre Aobhdha. For more information on the castle and its history visit their website.

Fitzpatrick Castle

This 18th century castle is situated on the South Dublin coast overlooking Dublin Bay. The park was once part of the estate of Killiney Castle (now Fitzpatrick's Castle Hotel), a prominent residence in the district. The original house, Miunt Mapas, was built in 1740 by Col. John Mapas. The property was owned in turn by a Mr. Maunsell, Henry Loftus, Viscount of Ely, Lord Clonmel and Robert Warren, who in 1840 enlarged the house and called it Killiney Castle. He also restored and added to the monuments on the hill. For a full photo gallery of the castle visit their website.

Glin Castle

This castle is situated in County Limerick which has a rich history. Large pieces of land were given to the great Norman Family, the Fitzgeralds, in Limerick by the Desmond Overlords in the early 14th Century. Out of the Fitzgerald family the so-called knights of Glin was created. For a complete photo gallery of the castle and more of its history visit their website.

Now Belfast has become one big cappuccino bar. Every new shop that opens has to have a coffee shop, and that's on top of all the usual chains: O'Brien's, Starbucks, Clements; even the large hardware stores are at it. It used to be that men went to B&Q to stand and look at planks of wood. The discussed the merits of various types of screws and wrenches with other men and went home satisfied for having bought nothing. They'd been for a trip to a male area of life, but now even B&Q has added a coffee bar and the wives come along too and have started getting their own ideas about what kind of new kitchen they want.

But I mustn't complain too much because it's in some of those cafés that I do my best reading. I cycle down to O'Brien's on a rainy morning and take my place at my favourite table and mix a good book up with coffee and a good dose of people watching.

However Belfast doesn't always get it right. Not every place serves up an Americano just the perfect way; it's either too weak or not very hot, it has no head, or the cappuccino is all head and no substance. But we're learning, slowly. I suppose we are taking our place among the sophisticated places of the world much in the same way that a ten year old girl tries out her mother's make-up. Refinement comes with age and experience, and at this stage we still have lipstick smeared from ear to ear.

Yesterday when I lifted my head out of a scene form the Algerian coast in Camus' La Morte Heureuse, I noticed two construction workers come in. It was their yellow bibs that drew my attention because it made them stand out against the grey, mizzley morning. I could smell the cement dust that dulled the strong aroma of coffee as they swaggered in, and they seemed to fill the room with their talk and their walk. One was forty or thereabouts, the other about nineteen. They both bent down to lean their elbows on the counter and treated us to a good four inches of builder's bum each. The Polish waitress came over and the older of the two ordered in a gruff, intimidating, loud, uncouth voice: “A skinny latte and a fat-free muffin to go”. The girl hesitated for a bit before he added “please”.

More ways are being found to relieve people of their money, with shops, shops and more shops being built - Belfast versions of all the chain stores that blight every city in the world. Distinct lack of originality.

There are some not-to-be missed highlights of course.

Call into Café Vaudeville, a converted Bank Headquarters and what a conversion! Excellent food, good prices and the most sumptuous, imaginative and entertaining interior ever. Words don't do it justice.

Then there's Queen's Film Theatre, not as worrying as the name might suggest. It's an avant-garde, art house type of cinema associated in some way with Queen's University of Belfast. It screens all the minority interest films you need. Programme on line.

The post-teenage music scene seems to focus on places like Auntie Annie's and the Spring and Airbrake, both quite central, featuring the likes of Kagura.

But what most baffles me is that the city is gearing up to celebrate the 100th anniversary of its most famous contribution to the history of disasters - the sinking of the Titanic. No doubt there'll be lots of drink drunk that night and the TV cameras will do special smiley shows from the dock where the ill-fated vessel was built, but if I was from Belfast I'd want to keep that one quiet.

The bath house sits on the road along the promenade looking out over the long beach. It's old, Edwardian I think, and purposely not modernised, but so well-kept. There are the usual expensive pampering products to buy but they're optional and unnecessary. Just call in on a whim, without an appointment, towels and whatever else you might need are provided.

An attendant draws the bath and leaves you to it in your private bathroom after giving instructions. The first stage is to sit in the old-fashioned, cedar wood steam box with your head sticking out. The amount of steam is controlled by a leaver inside the box so you have as much or as little as you can tolerate.

When you've been sufficiently well steamed you get out and climb into the ancient, big glazed porcelain bath filled with roasting hot water and armfuls of squelchy seaweed. Sink into it, lie back and rest your head on the back of the bath with your head just above the water, close your eyes and luxuriate. Concentrate on the different textures of the weed, rub the stuff over your body, do whatever comes to mind.

When the novelty runs off or when you get bored just get back in the steam box and let your imagination run away with you. Luxuriate some more. Take as much time as you want, there's no limit. Top up the bath with more hot water and take a freezing cold shower of sea water, or don't. Go from the steam to the bath and the shower as often as you want. There's no right or wrong way, just lie there and enjoy and come back for more.

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Here again is another museum I visited whilst at secondary school! This museum features all forms of transport from the early 1900s including trains and cars, as well as a ‘Titantic' exhibition. Activities from yesteryear such as spinning, weaving, basket making, lace-making and carpentry among others are on display.

Belfast Zoo

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A must have for animal lovers, and it is being constantly updated. The latest feature to be added is a rainforest exhibit. The zoo is open all year round, everyday of the week, and features over 150 rare species including gorillas, chimps, elephants, giraffes, lions, penguins, and sea lions amongst others.

Old Bushmills Distillery

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Calling all whiskey drinkers, here is your chance to see where and how the famous irish whiskey is produced. Gives demonstrations of all stages of the process and if you are lucky enough you may be able to taste a sample.

Ulster American Folk Park

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This is one of my favourite museums, and I can remember visiting it as a child. It is situated in Omagh and is based on emigration activities which took place in Ireland during the 18th and 19th centuries. There are thatched buildings and American log cabins on view as well as enthusiastic demonstrators who give an insight into what life was like during this period of emigration. Highly recommended!

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

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This is a challenge not for the faint hearted or indeed those scared of heights. The bridge is situated in Ballintoy and when you cross it you are rewarded with picturesque views of Rathlin Island and Scotland.

Giants Causeway

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This is probably one of the most well known sights in N. Ireland and is found on the North Antrim Coast. It was formed 62-65 million years ago, and consists of many stones of different sizes which look like stepping stones. I have visited it many times, but why not go yourself and hear the story of the legendary Finn MacCool.

Other sights I would recommend visiting are:

• Carrickfergus Castle, and Belfast Castle

  Northern Ireland is home to many castles but these are two of my favourites.

• Belleek Pottery Centre

  Visit and see how beautiful these ornaments are.

• Portstewart Strand and Portrush Whiterocks Beach

  This country is home to several glorious beaches and these 2 are the best in my opinion. Visit during the summer months to truly appreciate them!

• Belfast

  The capital of Northern Ireland should most definitely be visited for its shopping, nightlife and entertainment value.

In 1850 a gentleman by the name of Fulmuth Kearney made the journey, like so many others, from Ireland, to the United States. One of the huddled masses, he prospered and his line flourished. His great great grand daughter gave birth to a boy, who she named Barack, So it came about that Senator Obama of Illinois may well join the estimated 40% of American presidents who can claim some Irish heritage.

Ever been called a nosy parker? Well the name has its origins in Ireland. Edward Parker (died in 1896) was a gentleman from County Laois. He was a sergeant in the British army, which must have made him popular. What made him unforgettable, however, was the huge tumour he had on the end of his nose. This tumour was so large it extended way below his chin. The soldiers he worked with - generous to a soul - gifted him the name Nosey Parker which lived with him even after death. Even today when people clamour for fame of any kind, it would be a particularly odd person who would wish to be remembered in this way.

There was once a Doctor of Dublin - Jonathan Osborne was his name. His own peculiar claim to fame comes from the fact that he had himself buried in an upright coffin. Many have heard jokes about coffins shaped like a Y, but this is a strange on. It seems on his death in 1864 he did not wish to be at a disadvantage when the Day of Resurrection came. The poor chap had arthritic hips, you see!

Wales may have the longest place name in Europe but Ireland isn't far off! The village of Muckanaghederdauhaulia is located in County Galway. The name means “marsh of the pigs between two seas” - in this case two inlets (but no one could ever accuse the Irish of exaggeration, could they!). Although not the longest name place in the world by along way, it is believed to be the longest name for a port. The shortest, incidentally, is “U” in the Caroline Islands.

The English weren't the only ones prone to a bit of colonialism. Montserrat is often referred to as “The Emerald Isle of The Caribbean” and boasts areas caked Kinsale and Cork. Many of the locals have Irish last names. This was because the island was settled in the seventeenth century by Irish Catholics. Unfortunately, the Irish settlers chose poorly as there was a huge volcanic eruption in 1995 which made a lot of the island uninhabitable and it is only just starting to recover now.

The Irish may not have as rich a heritage of scientific discovery as say, the Scots, but John Tyndall, and Irish scientist, discovered the answer to one of those really irritating questions that almost every child comes up with at some point. The question is, of course, “Why is the sky blue?”. The answer is because the eye is most sensitive to the colors blue and reddy purply stuff, The molecules in our air scatter the bluey molecules quicker than the reddy pruply stuff. So, in the day and without clouds, the sky looks blue as the sun is close to you at the time and reddish in the morning and evening because the light must travel further to get to you and the more of the bluey light has been scattered. Until Tyndall people thought it was because it was dustier in the evening.

It's official! According to the most recent census, there are now more Polish people in Ireland than there are native speakers of the original language of the isle, Gaelic. Obviously the Emerald Isle has a huge plumbing problem that isn't mentioned often!

Although Ireland doesn't necessarily spring to mind when one is asked to name countries at the forefront of gender equality, it certainly holds one record. Mary Robinson was the first female President of Ireland. She was followed, with little fuss, by Mary McAleese. This is the only instance in the world where one female President was replaced by another.

Have the Irish discovered the secret of immortality? The most recent census showed that the population had risen to 4.2 million and the rise was a fifty fifty split between immigration and births. However, the average age of 33, meaning that the Irish as a population did not grow any older between to censuses. They now have a younger population than any of the other states of the European Union.

The best Irish proverb? “A man is incomplete until he marries. Then he is finished.”

In pre-Christian days, these sites were common witnesses to pagan blood sacrifices, but with the coming of the “Irish” saints , Patrick and Bridgid, all that was steeped in paganism was tweaked to become part of the new Christian faith and philosophy.

Thus the mounds of blood and death, became sites of inspiration for new brides, and waters of hope and healing for the crippled and the maimed, much like the Scriptural “Pool of Siloam”.

Today, the Holy Wells form part of traditional Catholic practices.

Special Masses and the Stations of the Cross are now included as part of the Holy Wells' personal devotions and corporate worship services.

The myths and legends surrounding the Wells have their basis in the pagan ritualisms and beliefs of the Otherworld, the land of the dead and of eternal youth.

The Otherworld was thought to be hidden under the earth and protected by the Irish mists.

From this mysterious place emanated all sources of power and wisdom, carried by the rushing waters which subsequently were guided to fill the selected well sites.

It was believed that supernatural fish which lived in the wells could supply lucky pilgrims with the ability to seek out and understand omens with special reference to future events.

With the rise of Christianity, the symbols and rituals of the Wells were transformed to represent Christ and His Cross, and thereby became places where His goodness and blessings and guidance would be poured out upon a faithful few.

Today followers of the Wells claim the existence of as many as over 3000 throughout the country.

Most of them still exhibit the three-core foundation of early Celtic paganism --- the well and water, the sacred tree and the standing stone.

Often women would lie prostrate on the stone wishing to ensure a pregnancy or a safe birth.

Tying swaddling cloth to the sacred tree was considered sufficient to transfer illness from the person to the cloth.

Coins were also tossed into the well both as an offering and an appeasement to the various deities believed to dwell within. Today, the standing stones bear the “worn away” results of the kissing and rubbing of faithful pilgrims.

As Christianity spread, many Catholic churches were built on “Holy Well” sites.

The water fonts were frequently moved inside and to this day, in most churches, the “Holy Water” font, generally placed close to the entrance, bears the evidence of years of rubbing and kissing by the faithful.

The “holy Wells” customs are still practised by many faithful Catholics, with frequent pilgrimages arranged in various counties. As you travel the length and breadth of Ireland , should you see a “clootie” (the swaddling cloth) tied to a tree branch, you will know you have entered a Holy Wells habitat.

St. Declan's Well in Waterford

Galway City is the capital of the western county that bears the same name. Nestled at the eastern end of Galway Bay it is named after the Gaillimh River which flow through the city into the bay. The main street is appropriately named Shop Street. The pedestrian thoroughfare is a bustling centre of commerce and accommodation. Small hotels and restaurants vie with pub and shops for the visitor's attention. The food, drink, rooms and shopping all come at a reasonable price. If a cheaper night stay is what you are after there are dozens of Bed & Breakfasts just short walks from the town centre. Galway is a great base to explore the western Ireland.

A short boat ride away is the Aran Islands, famed for their woollen sweaters and to the west is rugged and beautiful Conamara. Here you can still find hucaers, púcáns and currachs; wooden framed sailing boat with leather hulls that are still manufactured the same way they were thousands of years ago, though the leather has been replaced with more durable modern materials. On summer Sundays dozens of these bád mór “big boats”, some up to 15 metres long, can be seen scudding across the bays in dozens of local races. Today the prizes are family pride and drinks but in the past it was much more cut throat as the fastest boats gained the best berths for unloading their rich prize of peat turfs transported from bog rich Conamara to the barren Aran Islands as well as Galway and Clare. Further west is the picturesque fishing port of Clifden and to the north Westport, one of the few planned cities in Ireland; the Georgian architecture is outstanding.

To the south of Galway in County Clare is the Burren, over 300 square kilometres of barren limestone landforms. It is roughly circular in shape with a panhandle extending west to the Atlantic. The series of rolling hills look almost like cracked pavement running willy-nilly into the distance. But appearances can be deceptive, as Englishman Edmund Ludlow reported to his Cromwellian masters in the 17th Century:

“It's a country where there is not enough water to drown a man, wood enough to hang one nor earth enough to bury him and yet their cattle are very fat; for the grasses growing in turfs of earth that lie between the rocks is very nourishing.”

The area is unique in that it supports Arctic, Mediterranean and Alpine plants side by side and beneath the surface are charted and uncharted caverns created by water filtering through the porous limestone. Despite it outward camouflage the Burren has been inhabited for over 5000 years. The landscape is dotted with megalithic reminders of its past. History and Pre-History have an unbroken timeline here. There are long barrow, portal tombs, ring forts and Celtic high crosses. The triple ringed fort at Cahercommaun and the Caherconnell Stone Fort are outstanding archaeological sites and Doolin near the coast is a Mecca for cavers and potholers. The Aillwee Caves near Ballyvaughan are also a must see. The caves were discovered by a local farmer who kept the location secret for forty years until the 1970s. Over a kilometre of winding passages lead into the mountains. Hidden in the depths is an underground river complete with waterfall and numerous caverns with dazzling stalactites and stalagmites. It was once the haunt of bears, a species that has long since vanished from Ireland.

On the coast to the west is one of Ireland's most spectacular destinations, the Cliffs of Moher. These magnificent shale and sandstone landmarks stretch for over eight kilometre from Hag Head in the south to just beyond O'Brian's Tower in the north, where the new visitors centre has been built. The centre itself is a marvellous piece of engineering resembling giant Hobbit holes excavated into the rock just inland below the tower. The cliffs rise from 120 metres at Hag Head to over 200 metres at O'Brian's Tower and the view is breathtaking. On a clear day you can see the Aran Islands in Galway Bay and even the hills and valleys of Conamara on the northern shore. With an excellent pair of Nikon binoculars you can keep tabs on the Sunday shenanigans as even the sailing boats with their distinctive red sails are visible.

Heading south you pass Shannon Airport, the west coast entrepot for those flying from the States and Canada and a viable alternative for anyone wanting to see rural Ireland before arriving in the major population centre of Dublin. Not far away is Limerick straddling the Shannon River. This sheltered harbour lies at the inland end of the Shannon Estuary; a body of water that is over five kilometres wide in places and stretches over fifty long before disgorging into the Atlantic. It is no wonder the Vikings, who established a trading port and settlement here in 812 AD, found it attractive. Its maritime linage goes back into the mists of pre-history.

The surrounding area was once teaming in oak forests, the primary material used in the construction of longboats. Maritime excavations is Sweden and Norway have uncovered several 9th Century Viking ships that were partially or completely made of Irish oak. Oak was also the principle construction material for the leather hulled boats mentioned above.

On the Atlantic coast west of Limerick is the town of Dingle sheltering in a triangular shaped bay on the southern side of the peninsular. The harbour is full of multicoloured fishing boat and the old lighthouse on Slayhead stands out like a red and white beacon set against a backdrop of rolling green hills criss-crossed with ancient drystone walls. A few kilometres away is Slea Head, the westernmost point in Europe. On the heights overlooking the Basket Islands a monument extols: “Some lands touch the heart, Dingle touches the soul.”

Across Dingle Bay to the south is the Ring of Kerry. This beautiful and well know peninsular has become over exposed in recent years and the extremely narrow roads and swarms of tourist coaches makes it a chore to do any decent sightseeing. You spend more time watching the road and traffic (yes traffic jams are common on this well trodden tourist route) than the picture postcard landscape.

Travelling along these narrow country roads can be not only be a source of frustration but also a good laugh as well, especially when the tour bus ahead is confronted by a caravan approaching from the opposite direction. The ensuing battle of skills as each driver manoeuvres past with centimetres to spare rivals anything on the Comedy Channel. These innocent picturesque country lanes also hold hidden danger. The green hedges in some cases are merely a thin velvet glove encasing the hidden mail hand of ancient stone walls, which are a feature of rural Ireland, much to the chagrin of unsuspecting tourists saddled with local hire cars who happen to stray off the tarmac.

Don't be disheartened though because just across Kenmare Bay is a peninsular that rivals even the famed Ring of Kerry. It's called The Beara Way. It winds around the Beara Peninsular and is just as spectacular. It is largely untravelled by the regular tourist hoards for two reasons. Its northern sister features prominently in virtually every travel brochure and tourist guide and the total absence of tour coaches and caravans. This is due to the strategic positioning of one farm house at the western end of the Way. The brightly painted building is perched right where the road takes a ninety degree bend and opposite is a large stone wall. The turn is so acute it is impossible for caravans to negotiate and busses haven't got a pagans chance in heaven without serious panel damage. Even the local delivery vans find it a challenge. You may see some that still bear the scars.

The road is as narrow as the Ring of Kerry and in some places narrower but the scenery is spectacular. The forest canopy covers the roadway in dark cathedral arches and tiny side track lead off to lonely stone circles overlooking secret hidden valleys that seem to have remained is stasis for millennia. At every turn you can imagine Green Elves appearing from this mystical landscape bows at the ready to dissuade any unsuspecting interloper. Suddenly the trees give way to coastal vistas of fertile hill and narrow coastal valleys where every centimetre of arable land is cultivated and colourful farmhouses sit on the high ground overlooking fields and sea. At the end of the peninsular is the narrow arrow shaped Dursey Island, its western promontory pointing the way to the nearest landfall, Newfoundland. The island is noted for its unique cable car. It looks like something cobbled together with a Meccano set and fishing line but for the three families who live on the island and those brave enough to take the trip there is a font of holy water on board just to reassure you.

The trip back along the southern side is just as rewarding. This side faces the Atlantic and is rugged and wind swept. In many places the trees permanently lean inland. The coastal hills are largely barren and reminiscent of the Scottish highlands. The salty winds retarding all but the hardiest plants and grasses. A little further east the landscape changes where the coastline is protected by Beara Island and the mountains that straddle the southern side of Bantry Bay. Just to the north crossing the Caha Mountains, which form the backbone of the Beara Peninsular, is the Healey Pass; a worthwhile sidetrack. Built at the height of the famine the 1840s it formed a major link between Kerry to the north and Cork. It is an incredible piece of engineering considering the rubble and stonework for its construction was hewn from the mountain with hand tools. The road uphill passes by the spectacular Hungry Hill Falls, the tallest in Ireland and the hairpins and switchbacks rival those in the Italian Alps. Fortunately there are passing bays at regular intervals as the road is only wide enough for traffic in one direction. The trip back down is like a rollercoaster ride and just prey that there is no traffic heading uphill to spoil the thrill. The busy port town of Adrigole sits at the southern end of the road and from here you head east through the oak forests of Glengarriff to Bantry which marks the end of the Beara Way.

The city of Bantry has been blessed by the gods both Celtic and Christian. Encircled by mountains and bordered by the sea it has some of the most breathtaking scenery in Ireland. The vegetation is lush with palms and tropical flowers. The Gulf Stream literally beats a path to its front door. The mountain sides abound in cascading streams, hillside pastures, lakes and woodlands where megalithic monuments and monastic ruins are strewn like pebbles on the ground. The town is one of the most colourful in the country and was once traversed by Venetian style waterways. Stroll along the promenade through the centre of town past brightly decorated houses and shop or walk along the seafront and rest at one of the many view point. Dine at one of the many restaurants and sample the local produce or just relax in one of the Pubs or outdoor Cafes. This place exudes friendliness and charm.

Now that you are rested and refreshed the south coast awaits. The Mizen Peninsular stretches its way to the most south westerly point in Ireland. Along the way you pass through a landscape of outstanding scenic beauty. The journey begins at Ballydehob where there has been settlement since before the Bronze Age. Megaliths abound nearby and copper and gold were mined at nearby Mount Gabriel over 4000 years ago. The town is a patchwork of colourful gables, housing antique shop, craft galleries and bookshop along with many excellent bars, restaurants and cafes. In recent times it has become a centre of the Arts with many artists, sculptors, writers and craftspeople living in the vicinity.

Along the way you pass through isolated country villages and sleepy sea side ports like Schull, the departure for the local islands and Goleen with its secret harbour, Heron Cove. A narrow winding street in the middle of town leads to a tranquil retreat where the images of blue and white boats are reflected like a shimmering mirror in the stillness of the evening ebb tide. Eight kilometres further on is the penultimate destination of our trip, Mizen Head. From the visitor's centre car park, perched atop a precipice that drops into the Atlantic you take a path that lead to “the ninety nine steps” that wind down the cliff face to the award winning Maritime Museum housed in the Mizen Head Signal Station. On the way down you'll pass static displays that capture the spirit of its maritime history; code flags, a huge propeller of an ill-fated ship and the earliest signal antennae. This was after all where Marconi came to trial the first radio transmissions to America. The biggest surprise waits at the bottom of the pathway for the headland is actually an island sundered from the mainland by a deep abyss that conjures up visions from the dim recesses of ones mind, especially in the late afternoon when the shadowy gap is dark and brooding with the thunderous roar of crashing waves. But fear not there are no monsters to challenge you passing across the narrow arched bridge, which is encased in protective barriers. Just keep moving and don't look down. The Museum is an experience not to be missed. It includes historic as well as environmental exhibits along with displays on lighthouse construction, sea life, underwater wrecks, the fastnet race, keeper's kitchen and bedroom, map and archive room and audiovisual displays. The Mizen Light was once know as the “Light at the End of the World”

Our final destination is Crookhaven, which lies midway between Goleen and Mizen Head. This sheltered harbour gets it name from its narrow U-shape. It holds a special place in Ireland's national psyche for it was once the last port of call for ships heading for America. It was major port for Trans-Atlantic shipping where it was said one could walk across the harbour on the decks of boats. The present day Crookhaven with less than thirty permanent residents is a far cry from the halcyon days of the late 19th century when the population was around 700.

A lilting Irish melody from 0'Sullivans Bar on the quayside drifts on the warm evening breeze; a poignant reminder of the past. This was the last vision of the Erin Shore that most of those who were forced through circumstance to abandon Ireland for a new and uncertain life in America would ever see. The last time they would gaze upon those colourful streets, bustling ports, wooded hills, verdant glens, cool clear mountain stream and stone lined fields. A deeply religious people banished from their earthly paradise. They sailed away beyond the deep waters of Crookhaven, past the brooding heights of Mizen Head guided by the solitary sentinel of Fastnet Rock; a jagged spire wrought by wind and wave just beyond sight of land. It is forever know as the “Teardrop of Ireland”, the last sight of home. Like elves with bittersweet memories of Middle Earth as they sailed into the west forever.

Ireland has reinvented itself, which is not surprising given that it gave birth to civilisation in Europe. Irish was the first written European language at a time when Britain and the rest of the Continent had descended into darkness. Ireland remained a solitary beacon of civilisation and eventually sparked the revival that led to the Europe we see today; a fact that those of us with an Anglo-centric upbringing have remained oblivious to. Ireland has once again become an economic “Wunderkind” of Europe. It is comforting to know that it has not come at the expense of all that is green and good in the world.

Galway, located on the Western coast of the Emerald Isle, is one of Ireland's most beautiful bragging points. Along with the traditional Irish elements that fill the pages of travel guides(green hills, bona fide Guinness, and rainbow store facades that seem to violate every fire code), Galway has something more to offer. The town offers a taste of the old and the new.

If it's the old you're looking for, take a stroll into Tis Colis pub downtown, and (like I did) you just might find yourself occupying a table near a cluster of local musicians singing of their loves long-gone. These are the guys that make heartache look good. Directly across the street, you'll find the almost-hidden stone chapel that Christopher Columbus supposedly prayed in before setting sail for the New World. (Having sang two choir songs in there, I can tell you that the acoustics are perfect and the stone architecture isn't too shabby either). There's also the Aran Islands if you find trad Ireland more aesthetic. Taking one of the Galway ferries, you'll arrive on the main Island in an hour and experience one of the only places in the world that speaks Irish-they prefer this term over "Gaelic"-on a regular basis. For twelve euros, you'll even get a horse-drawn carriage tour, courtesy of one of the locals. (If your driver is like mine, he might even show you his cottage on the way).

If contemporary Ireland is more your preference, Galway offers that as well. As host to the National University of Galway, Ireland, there is a tangible city life here complete with shopping plazas (that don't just sell sweaters and crosses, I promise), swanky bars, and a beating heart for the county football team-just don't be fooled into thinking it's the same football we boast here in the United States. Also, if it's sports you like, be sure to swing by Kate's Tavern on a night when Galway is playing. If they win, you and your travel pals will be getting free food.

Bottom line...Galway has something to offer for just about anyone. Having lived in many small cities, I can tell you that you won't be finding another city with that old-world-meets-new world charm. Unless of course your city is prone to friendly strangers or cow traffic jams.

Upon arriving in Dublin airport I hired a car to explore the whole of Southern Ireland.

Dublin is a metropolitan city and it can be very confusing driving through the city of Dublin for the first time as you have to negotiate the one-way traffic systems. On the way to my hotel I noticed a variety of ornate Georgian doors. They are usually crowned with a segmented fanlight and a heavy brass knocker. These doors are very elegant and represent a time of real prosperity in Dublin.

Temple Bar

Once I had found my hotel and had unpacked I visited the cultural quarter of Temple Bar and the shopping areas such as Grafton Street. I sampled a pint of Guinness in an amazing café/restaurant called Café en Seine which had a deceivingly small exterior and an interior that was enormous inside.

The National Museum of Dublin

The next day I went to The National Museum of Dublin, which houses a collection of artefacts dating from the Stone Age to the 20th Century. There were items such as belt buckles that were decorated with traditional Celtic patterns and I was very impressed with the skill of the craftsmanship. Some of the most exquisite items were: -

St. Patrick's Bell - A 12th Century bell housed in a decorative jewelled shrine made of bronze.

Tara Broach - An ornate broach, which dates back to the 8th Century, decorated with gold, filigree and entwined around amber and enamel.

Trinity College

After some refreshment I then proceeded on to Trinity College, which houses the Book of Kells. The famous book is a richly decorated medieval illuminated manuscript created by monks who fled to Kells in 806 AD. Each page contains highly intricate lettering combined with interlacing spirals and symbolism. Within Trinity College is the majestic library called The Long Room, which houses over 200,000 antique texts and a beautiful spiral staircase.

Kilkenny Design Centre

Kilkenny is described as Ireland's loveliest inland city - and I can see why. I walked up the charming, traditional high street with coloured houses, which are a common feature of Southern Ireland.

The Design Centre houses a shop with local craft for sale including jewellery, glass, textile and wood. There was also an exhibition showing work originated from the Kilkenny Design Studios. Within these small studios you are able to see the artists at work.

Waterford

Waterford is Ireland's oldest city and on first sight seems very industrial with many factories. Waterford is of course famous for its crystal and there was a large variety of decorative crystal on display including chandeliers, wine carafes etc.

Cork

I had decided to stay at Lotamore House, an elegant Georgian residence in Cork. I found the place full of character, including rich warm colours, intricate furnishings and exquisite antiques. All the bedrooms were decorated differently and included a flat screen television. I noticed in the living room damask patterned wallpaper, a popular feature of Georgian interiors. The staff were very accommodating and made me a bacon buttie upon request.

Blarney Castle

While in Cork I decided to visit the Blarney Castle. It was built by King Dermot McCarthy in 1446 and its design is typical of a 15th Century tower-house. I climbed right to the top where the legendary Blarney Stone is situated. Kissing the Blarney Stone is a long-standing tradition and is supposed to give the person the gift of talking Blarney - talking with eloquence.

Kinsale

Kinsale is another of Ireland's very pretty towns, with pastel coloured houses and handcrafted shop signs. It is a popular yachting centre and also famous for eating out. While I was walking around I discovered a traditional horse-drawn caravan.

Bantry

I first decided to visit Bantry House, which is a short walk from the bay, but it was unfortunately closed. I had a good look around the large gardens that overlooked the bay and the view of the harbour, Whiddy Island and the Caha Mountains was fantastic. The Italian garden at the back of the house is inspired by the Boboli gardens in Florence and also include the “Staircase to the Sky” - a large stone staircase.

Ring of Kerry

I drove around the Ring of Kerry but I didn't have much luck with the weather. Frequent snow showers and a heavy mist had descended, taking away the chance of taking any inspiring photographs of the hills and coastline. I drove through some charming fishing villages, free from the trappings of commercialisation - this was the real Ireland that I wanted to see.

Glin Castle, Limerick

On the banks of the River Shannon stands the majestic Glin Castle where I was fortunate to stay for the night. It was originally owned by the Knight of Glin and his wife Madam Fitzgerald for over 200 years. It is housed on an estate of 500 acres of dairy farm and parkland. The castle is full of Irish paintings and antique furniture that the patrons have collected over the centuries. Influenced by Robert Adams, the castle takes on a Georgian theme and is luxuriously furnished throughout.

Galway

The final destination on my journey through Southern Ireland was Galway, a lively university city. As I was there for St. Patrick's Day the streets were bustling with people out for a good time.

St. Patrick used the shamrock to symbolize the trinity of God the Father, God the Son and God the Holy Spirit. The shamrock has been associated with St. Patrick and Ireland ever since.

My trip to Southern Ireland had been cultural and enlightening and I will not hesitate in returning to explore further the charm of this beautiful country.