When the great English explorer and navigator, James Cook sailed into the beauty of a tranquil bay at the northern tip of New Zealand's South Island in 1770, his description of the place suggested he'd reached Paradise. Shortly after dropping anchor in the calm, clear water of the small bay, his ship was surrounded by curious dolphins and penguins. His crew feasted on a staggering variety of fish that abounded there. Cook revisited this magic retreat five times until his last visit in 1777. Astonishing as it may seem, Ship Cove is the same today. It is part of a network of drowned valleys containing 4000km of sounds, islands and peninsulas.

The Marlborough Sounds continue to weave magic on the modern day visitor, with the sheer beauty of its steep, wooded hills and small quiet bays. It's a sparsely populated area with many of the small settlements and isolated houses only accessible by boat. This truly is an unspoiled destination waiting to be discovered by the overseas tourist.

It's a clear, sunny day with the odd cloud standing out with digital clarity against the deep blue only seen in skies this far south. I amble along the main street of Picton, the main port in the area. The salty tang in the air mingles with the freshness of the air itself. It makes me feel alive and content. This little town has a population of four thousand, and lies at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound. It was created by European sealers in the 1840's, and is the terminus for the South Island's main railway and road systems. It is also the port for the inter island ferry. (It's a three hour voyage across Cook Strait to the North Island and the capital, Wellington). I watch the Kaitaki, the largest of the three ships currently on the inter island service, as its white bulk glides up to the terminal. I don't stop to see the 600 cars and 1600 passengers disembark. I prefer to remain in the moment and to savour the special atmosphere this part of New Zealand offers. Most of the traffic from the ship will head south, without lingering, to explore the world famous scenic attractions the South Island has to offer. I can't understand why the Marlborough Sounds, are not part of this tourist circuit. It might be something to do with New Zealanders being spoilt with the number of magic places they can visit.

I hop into a car and drive the short distance around to Kenepuru Sound. The road along the finger of land separating it from Queen Charlotte Sound, offers a series of lookouts. I look across the sparkling water to the densely wooded peninsula that separates me from Pelorus Sound, the third waterway in the Marlborough Sounds.

Fur seals are common in this network of bays, and it's also possible to see magnificent orca whales. Here in these beautiful stretches of water, pods of dusky, bottlenose and occasionally, the rare Hectors dolphins accompany the boats that use the sounds for recreation. Groupings can consist of as many as five hundred. To be in the company of these friendly mammals is to experience one of the true delights of being a human lucky enough to visit this truly amazing world.

Pelorus Jack was a dolphin who made this area his home. In 1904, he became the first "fish" in the world to be protected by law. This remarkable dolphin became famous as a "guide" in French Pass, an unpredictable stretch of water at the approaches to the Marlborough Sounds. He escorted ships through these treacherous waters from 1888 until he disappeared in April 1912. He was fond of steamers, and crews would wait for him to appear before sailing through the pass. His loss caused an outpouring of grief throughout New Zealand. I can remember as a kid, having a picture book with drawings of this little dolphin enjoying the attention swimmers gave him. I didn't believe the story was true. How could a "fish" do all those amazing things?

Only four hundred people live in Havelock, the other settlement in the Sounds. It's known as the Greenshell Mussel Capital of the world, but a better claim to fame is surely that Lord Rutherford, the man who helped split the atom, opening up the nuclear age, and Dr. William Pickering, the developer of the first American satellite, both went to school in this tiny fishing settlement. Wandering around its peaceful streets is like being on a film set. All that's needed is for the film crew to arrive and create some action.

It's not only the waterways that make this place so special. The award winning Queen Charlotte Track winds its way through 12km of beautiful native forest. It was created by European pioneers in the mid 1800's as a bridal track. It's named after the wife of King George the Third. I'm sure she would be humbled to know such a magical place carried her name. I walk slowly along the narrow walkway, peering into the thick bush either side of me. I pause to watch a sparkling drop of water make its way to the very tip of a superbly intricate frond of the native fern. I fail to understand why this exquisite symbol of nature's craftwork, is not on the New Zealand flag, as has been suggested. As I watch this delicate tiny marble of water plop onto a pebble below, I smile to myself. I'm a character in a kid's fantasy story. Nearby, I hear a light rustling and turn to see a cheeky little fantail flip open its beautiful tail in excitement. Further along the track, another bird found in the New Zealand forests, a friendly bush robin, hops close behind me. He pecks at my last footprint. I've disturbed a grub. I'm pleased to be able to help him find food so easily. He keeps me company and reminds me how special this place is.

I stop for dinner at the Portage Hotel. It has been located in a small bay in Kenepuru Sound for a hundred years. This is no swanky metropolitan style hotel, but it's comfortable and inviting and the roast lamb with mint sauce, was tasty and satisfying after a day in paradise. This hotel is accessible by road and motorists driving along it are rewarded with postcard perfect views around every corner. The view up the sound from the hotel is claimed to be one of the most memorable views from any hotel in the world. It has to be seen to be appreciated. The isolation, stillness and natural beauty, all work to touch my heart. I'm at peace with the world. I feel strangely free. There's also something wonderful about the quality of the light here. The colours are intense. Everything seems so vivid. Sounds seem to be amplified. The flutter of a bird in the near distance is as clear as the trickle of a baby stream a few feet away. The leaves in the trees, disturbed by a light breeze, have a crispness to their rustling. Everything seems to be, well, sort of unreal, sort of magical. I'm that character in a kid's fantasy story again, in a fantastic place, far, far away from my ordinary world.

D'Urville Island is at the very tip of the sounds. It is surrounded by a temperamental sea that has challenged sailors for centuries. It's still a challenge, and quite a contrast from the waters in the Sounds themselves, but it serves to keep boatmen on their guard. It rains a bit, and the summer temperatures hover around the mid 20's centigrade.. But this is what makes the place so verdant. This is why there are so many shades of green in the trees and so many beautiful shades of blue in the sea. .

It's a mystery why this magical place, only fifteen minutes by air from the capital of a country with such a highly developed tourist industry, should be so under commercialized. Man has been afraid to tamper here. Any effort to change the place would be doomed to failure as nature has created the perfect blend of forest, water and hills. To scar it with concrete hotels and apartment blocks would be a sacrilege. Nature has the final say here. There are no fast food outlets, billboards, traffic lights, or convoys of tour buses to taint this precious jewel in New Zealand's world famous scenic crown. The magic is still here as nature has designed it. The visitor can only marvel at the pristine beauty of a place that helps the soul soar and the mind rest and ponder.

Writer: Ceidrik Hewasrd

ceidrik@gmail.com

Brick Lane - Food and Bars

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Hidden behind the industrial buzz of Liverpool Street Station is Brick Lane. Ten years ago it was thought to be an area to avoid, but an influx of students and artistic types has made this hidden area into a thriving community, and a great place to pick up one of London's staple dishes, an Indian curry, at a bargain price. The bars here are relaxed and young and in the summer there are plenty of places to sit outside. The area is best known for its curries which are served up at a host of restaurants that line the West end of this infamous street. Bring your bargaining skills and prepare to be approached by eager restaurant owners ready to offer a variety of incentives ranging from free drinks to money off the bill. The legendary Ten Bells pub where Jack the Ripper picked up his victims is just around the corner.

Tube - Liverpool Street

The Historic Coronet Cinema

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Until the recent smoking ban there was a smoking section in this independent cinema. Still very much a part of the London arts scene this cinema is very unique inside and shows films that won't be found in the more commercial cinemas. Students go for half price on a Monday and the deal is extended to all on a Tuesday making it a bargain at £3.50. The cinema has stood on the same site since 1898. Hugh Grant and Julia Roberts filmed a scene here in the film "Notting Hill".

Tube - Notting Hill

Hoxton Square - Food and Bars

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In London's up and coming East End, Hoxton Square brings a European flavour to this thriving neighbourhood. Hidden away from any main roads and with plenty of out door seating there are plenty of bars serving up cocktails and food from all nations. Round the corner from the new Courtyard Theatre and housing London's only female oriented sex shop this square attracts a big after work crowd and is a great place to meet the locals.

Tube - Old Street

The King's Head Theatre

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An institution on the London theatre scene, this fringe venue and pub has hosted a variety of shows and has been the spring board for talented artists including Victoria Wood, Joanna Lumley, Alan Rickman and Tom Stoppard. At the beginning of 2008 this venue announced plans to become a producing theatre and now features a season of home grown work. This theatre has leant particular support to new writers and musical theatre over the years and is a great place to soak up some London arts culture and see some start of the future. The pub also serves great food at lunch and dinner time.

Tube - Angel

Sketch - Café and Restaurant

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The upstairs restaurant at this unusual was at one time said to be London's most expensive restaurant and the downstairs café doesn't go easy on the pocket book either. If you stick to a simple coffee and cake it is worth the expense, if only to visit the bathrooms which are by far the most unusual in London. Tracey Emin regularly displays art in the corridors here. From the staff's hair cuts to the paint splashed stairs this venue screams London style and fashion. It makes a great change from a regular coffee stop and is walking distance from Oxford Street so makes a great rest stop.

Tube - Oxford Circus

Somerset House - Historic Building

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During summer there is a great line up of concerts and festivals in the impressive courtyard of this 16th century palace originally the home of the Duke of Somerset. Last year Amy Winehouse was amoung those to take to the temporary stage. Winter events are just as entertaining with a temporary ice rink set up between October and February. It is worth booking early as the recent craze for ice skating means that weekends are often booked up well in advance. Covent Garden is the nearest tube but it is well worth travelling to Waterloo in order to walk across Waterloo bridge and take in one of the most stunning views in London.

Tube - Covent Garden

Southbank - Walk

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Along from the bustle of the Millennium eye the south bank river walk stretches all the way to Southwark where the Tate Modern and the Globe Theatre dominate the river. There are plenty of pubs and restaurants to stop and rest in as well as a few market style stalls and shops. The view is fantastic and if you feel adventurous there are even routes down to the river bank at low tide where treasures from Victorian England are regularly found. At certain points along the route some of London's famous buskers can be found and a little before London Bridge you can see the new City Hall and the site where David Blaine performed his 44 day endurance and survival stunt in 2003. He suspended himself in a Perspex box without food in order to push himself to his human limits. Not all Londoners took kindly to the stunt and one group even took to cooking hamburgers underneath him in an attempt to taunt him with the smell.

Nearest Tube - Waterloo

Borough Market - Food Market

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Best experienced on a Saturday morning this market is a haven for the senses. Wander from stall to stall and taste the varied offerings. The food is fresh and it is a great place to pick up a sense of London's famous market culture. There are several prized pubs and restaurants around the market itself and the Menier Chocolate Factory theatre, a fringe theatre set in an old chocolate factory is minutes walk away.

Tube - London Bridge

Prince Charles Cinema

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This small theatre is a prized London secret. It is hosts regular singalonga shows where audiences are encouraged to dress up and sing along to their favourite film musicals. Hairspray is the current offering. Ticket prices are notoriously low for central London and members get even better deals with shows from as little as £1.50.

Tube - Leicester Square

Toptable

Not a location as such but a great web site for getting great deals on eating out in London. Featuring deals such as three courses and a glass of wine for £15 it makes dining at some of London's best restaurants a possibility for even those on the tightest of budgets.

Tube - The Internet

London is full of hidden gems. Go out and have a great time finding your own!

1. Sunset Cliffs

   Located in Ocean Beach, Sunset Cliffs is a true escape when you're seeking a little time away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Offering stunning views of the vast Pacific Ocean, you're sure to leave here with what you might be looking for - peace.

2. Mt. Helix

   Not too many people know about this hidden beauty, which is located in the higher parts of La Mesa. Tucked away at the top of a mountain, Mt. Helix is a place of refuge for those who want a little quiet time with beautiful views of the city as well. The cross is only one of the many things that might possibly take your breath away while up here.

3. Mt. Soledad

   A popular landmark in the city of San Diego, Mt. Soledad is nestled between the Pacific Ocean and the I-5 Freeway. Many have heard of the continuing controversy of the Mt. Soledad cross, but the beauty and history of the cross is also what makes this place such a stunning and unique visit, not to mention everything you can see from here.

4. Cowles Mountain

   If you're looking for a good hike and some picture worthy sights, Cowles Mountain might be for you. Located within the Mission Trails Regional Park, it's hill is 1,592 feet at it's highest, offering panoramic views of San Diego, even as far out as the ocean. The hike is probably classified as medium, but well worth it once you reach the top.

5. Julian, CA

   If you're looking for an affordable vacation for the day, you might want to try Julian. This small, historic city offers so much for so little. It's located about an hour east of San Diego in the Cuyamaca Mountains. The city is famous for their delicious apple pies and cider. You're sure to leave with a satisfied appetite... and wallet!

6. La Jolla Cove

   One of the most photographed beaches in Southern California, La Jolla Cove proves to be the "jewel" of San Diego. It's a very small beach and sometimes, you can even see the seals washed up on shore, which is sure to be an amazing experience. Whether you go in the daytime or in the evening, you'll be able to appreciate this beautiful escape.

7. Kellogg's Beach

   Not many know about this small, secluded beach. Located off Rosecrans on Kellogg Street in Point Loma, it secretly lies behind the residents' homes. If you're looking for a quiet retreat to the beach, Kellogg's Beach is perfect. Make sure not to tell too many people about this place - one of the reasons for it's beauty is the fact that it's still a well kept secret - not to mention, a little hard to find!