Ithaa Undersea Restaurant

The world’s first all-glass underwater restaurant opened on April 2005 at the Conrad Maldives Rangali Island (formerly Hilton Maldives Resort and Spa) in Rangalifinolhu, Maldives. Ithaa (pronounced eet-ha) which means “pearl” in Dhivehi is a five-by-nine meter transparent acrylic encased under water restaurant that seats 12 guests. The restaurant is submerged five meters below the Indian Ocean and offers diners a 360-degree panoramic view of coral reef and marine life. Ithaa serves Maldivian-Western fusion and international dishes that costs US$120 to US$250 a meal. It’s best to eat here during lunchtime since the view is at its best when the sun is shining. The restaurant is open Mondays through Sundays from 12:30am to 11:00 pm.

According to reviews, despite the tasty food being served at Ithaa, diners can’t pay much attention to their food. They are too fascinated by the breathtaking underwater view surrounding them. Being one with the vibrant aquatic life for some time also made them feel like marine creatures themselves.

Red Sea Star Underwater Restaurant, Bar and Observatory

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Submerged six meters below the Red Sea is the world’s very first underwater bar and restaurant, the Red Sea Star Restaurant, Bar and Observatory. Each table has two windows on the side and one above giving diners an octopus eye-view of the kaleidoscope beauty of the undersea kingdom. Ironically, the guest’s attention tends to get torn between the magnificent sea creatures in the colorful coral garden outside and the marine looking creatures and shapes inside such as the jellyfish stools and anemone lighting fixtures. The restaurant offers continental cuisine with the main course priced between USD$10-20. It seats 105 guests and is open daily including weekends and holidays from 10 am to 1 am.

Before the Red Sea Star was built in 1998, the area on where it now sits was a dirty and desolate seabed caused by severe damage due to illegal human activities. Four years before it opened for business, the “Star” team started growing a coral nursery surrounding the reef to save, recreate and preserve what used to be an active and colorful coral reef 20 years ago. Now, it has also become the only underwater night observatory in the world where the softly lit rare sight of the underwater kingdom at night is seen through the Star’s 62 amorphous windows.

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Originally, the Chinese would discard the rice when eating the fish. The Japanese traditionally ate their fish with rice, and so when the method reached Japan, the rice was included in the meal.

Around this time, the Japanese also introduced the use of rice wine vinegar when preparing the rice, and the combination of vegetables and preserved food stuffs with the fish.

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For centuries, sushi slowly took form, combining art and flavor.

During the early 19th century, Tokyo (Then known as Edo) was dominated by mobile food stalls. Many of these stalls worked in the region of the Edo bay, and this is where the fresh fish and seaweed was obtained for using in sushi.

In 1923, an earthquake destroyed a large part of the bay area, and the sushi chefs were dispersed throughout Japan, spreading their knowledge and skills throughout the region.

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Sushi made a comeback in the 1980s, when many people were seeking a healthy, delicious meal. As a result, sushi bars became more popular throughout Europe and the US and has gained fame for being a health-conscious, delicious and attractive meal.

Although the dishes on offer today often have the same names as their ancestors, they are in fact very different. Before the advent of refrigeration, fish would be salted or marinated in soya sauce in order to preserve it. This meant that the sushi would not be dipped into soya sauce after preparation.

Modern sushi boasts small, bite-sized portions, half the size of ancient sushi.

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Wasabi, the spicy green paste that is often served with sushi, is made from “Japanese Horseradish”. Modern restaurants often serve a wasabi paste, made from dried and powdered wasabi, but in the past, wasabi would be served fresh.

Sushi has transformed drastically during its existence into the delicate, delicious meal that we know today. Each piece is carefully created to emphasize the combination of fresh flavors and contrasting colors.

Although Japanese food is mainly raw fish, crude vegetables and rice, there are many ways of combining them into different forms of sushi, and each combination has a name and special preparation. This list shows the most popular sushi types among the occidental people.

Hashi

Those are the wooden chopsticks used to eat Japanese food. It is said that the contact with metal from fork and knife may corrupt the sushi taste.

Nori

Algae sheet used to bind the rice with the raw fish.

Gari

It's sliced ginger. Japanese eat it between one sushi and the next to clean the taste, so the first sushi doesn't interfere with the taste of the next one.

Wasabi

It's a condiment made from the powder of the root of the plant above. This spicy condiment usually is mixed in the shoyu sauce and enhances the fish taste.

Sashimi

Mainly, raw fish slices. The popular ones are salmon and tuna, and the noble part is the fish's belly. For someone who is just beginning to appreciate Japanese Food, the taste of sashimi may need some getting used to.

Nigiri-Zushi

It is a slice of raw fish over a little amount of pressed rice seasoned with vinegar. It may or may not be tied by a nori stripe.

Temaki

A tiny piece of raw fish wrapped in seasoned rice and enrolled in a nori cone. In Japan it is sold in cigar shape, but there are many places where it is a cone sushi.

Oshizushi

Oshizushi is very much like a Nigiri-Zushi, but the whole piece of fish and rice is pressed inside that wooden box.

The final result is this:

It doesn't need algae stripes to be firm.

Gunkanmaki

A strong tasted maki. It is a small amount of salmon eggs enrolled in nori. Its taste also demands some getting used to.

Uramaki

It is a kind of inverted Sushi. The rice goes out and the fish and vegetables inside. The most popular Uramaki was invented in USA, with the name of California. It takes crab, cucumber, mayonnaise and avocado. I'm not a fan; it tastes like rotten fruit salad.

Hosomaki

It's a small sushi roll. Usually, it has only one ingredient inside the rice and the nori (not the case of that one up here). The most popular ingredients are cucumber, tuna and pickles.

Futomaki

It's a huge hosomaki with much more ingredients inside, as vegetables, fish slices and eggs. The rice portion is larger.

Chirashi

It's a kind of meal with raw fish, sea-food and fish eggs; all of it over a layer of vinegar seasoned rice.

That is it. I hope I was of any help.

1. Fortnum & Mason

   A list of food stores in London would be incomplete without a mention of this landmark. Fornum & Mason has stood in its spot in Piccadilly for nearly 300 years and is a must-see on your visit to London. Spoil yourself with a high tea here before you browse the shelves looking at all the high quality products.
   
   Address: 181 Piccadilly

2. Gennaro Delicatessen

   Italian cuisine rates as one of the most popular in the world, but as we all know, many establishments can get it wrong. This delicatessen is as Italian as manicotti. The deli is a pleasure to peruse, with lovely scents from the products adding to the experience. The coffee here is some of the best you'll taste and the owners are as lovely and warm as their store.
   
   Address:23 Lewis Grove, SE13 6BG

3. Talad Thai

   There is a restaurant next door which is run by the same people who own the store. Authentic Thai ingredients are the order of the day here with beautiful fresh fruits and veggies imported from Thailand. For those who like their curry as hot as can be, there are many curry pastes on offer here and the owners are happy to give sound advice to budding cooks on how to use the products.
   
   Address: 326 Upper Richmond Road, SW15 6TL

4. Andreas Michli & Son

   This has to be one of the top food stores in London. The Cypriot proprietor, Mr. Michli, grows a lot of the products on his own farm, and what isn't grown is imported from Cyprus. There are always fresh fruits and vegetables to be bought and the juicy olives surely must be how gold would taste if you could eat it.
   
   Address: 405-411 St Ann's Road, N15 3JL

5. Blue Mountain Peak

   This store sells Afro-Caribbean staples. There are flours, fruit and vegetables and many fruit syrups. For chefs, both wannabe and real, the sauces and herb spices are heavenly. This shop is a pleasure to walk around and you'll want to taste many of the products on the shelves.
   
   Address: 2A-8 Craven Park Road, NW10 4AB

6. Phoenica Mediterranean Food Hall

   In Kentish Town you will find this monument to all foods Mediterranean. Products are imported from four different countries, them being Italy, Greece, Turkey and Lebanon. An added bonus that is really the jewel in this food store's crown is the halal butcher which makes the best sausages you will ever taste.
   
   Address: 186-188 Kentish Town, NW5 2AE

7. VB & Sons

   If you like pickles, make sure you head here. In the middle of the shop is the pickle cart, with the most delicious pickles sold by weight. This store is a smorgasbord of delights and gives you an excellent feel of the Gujarati region where the produce comes from.
   
   Address: 147 Ealing Road, Wembley, HA0 4BU

8. Polsmak

   This very neat deli is a treat due to the helpful staff and wonderful products packed on the shelves. From pickles to meats to breads this Polish deli is a top food store. Their pastries are must-haves and once you eat one, you'll be going back for more.
   
   Address: 39 Balls Pond Road, N1 4BW

9. Taj Stores

   A food store with a great sense of place and time is the Taj Stores establishment in Brick Lane. This Bangladeshi grocer has been here since 1936 and sells fruit and vegetables, meat (halal), herbs and best of all, Bangladeshi fish. Taj Stores also sells utensils needed for Indian and Bangladeshi cooking.
   
   Address: 112-114a Brick Lane, E1 6RL

10. R Garcia and Sons

    Very central in zone 1 of London is this Spanish food store. The delicatessen sells some of the best charcuterie in the city and the cheese selection is top class too. There is also an exquisite range of sherries available here.
    
    Address: 248-250 Portobello Road, W11 1LL

Believe it or not, this Island exist but as part of Australia. The population is about 3000 people live in various areas called the “Settlements.” The main ethnic population in the island is Chinese (70%) and the Europeans make about 20% and the Malay people make about another 10% of the population. The majority of the people practice Buddhism, followed closely by Islam and Christianity. This Island is relatively close to the Sunda Islands of Indonesia. This Island is perfect for birdwatchers and nature lovers since about more than half the Island is a national park.

Cocos Islands

Yes, yet another Island owned by Australia in the Indian Ocean but these Islands are significantly lower with about 1000 people living on these Islands. Majority of the people are either European or Cocos Malay with English as the major language spoken and Sunni Muslims making up 80% of the population. This island also uses the Australian Dollars are its official currency and is a close neighbor of the Christmas Island. The total number of Islands in the Cocos chain is about 27 Islands with only 2 Island inhabited. Europeans on one Island and the native malays on the other Island.

Comoros

The Union des Isles Comoros or the Comoros Island Union lies above the Madagascar Island near the entrance of the Mozambique channel. Even though Comoros gained independence in 1974, the people chose to stay with the French until 2004, where conflict led to the creation of 3 capitals with its own presidents and government systems. Currently about 700,000 people live on these 3 volcanic islands with Arabic and French as the major languages spoken. The religion composition of the Island is 98% Sunni Muslim and 2% Catholics. The main capital is Moroni and even through the civil strife is over, much of the country remains poor and is only a minor exporter in agricultural products.

Maldives

This island nation composed of over 1200 mini Island chains (202 Inhabited) is Asia's smallest nation and remains as one of the poorest nations in the world. About 400,000 people live in Maldives with South Indians as the largest ethnic group along with Arabs and Sinhalese. The major language is English with a dialect of Arabic and majority of people are Sunni Muslims. Maldives is working closely with its largest neighbors - India and Sri Lanka. At one point, Indian troops were deployed in these Islands to stop a coup against the government. The Islands are marred by violence and they have has only 1 president since 1978 because political parties are banned and only 1 candidate runs for the “elections.” Thus Abdul Gayoom is still the president of the Maldives with little to no progress with regards to political freedom or human rights issues.

Mayotte

Mayotte still remains are a territory of France with 200,000 people living in the largest two Islands. The main language is still Swahili dialects and French with 97% of the people as Muslims. The ethnic group is made up of a mixture of Bantu, Arab and African populations.

Reunion

The Island of Reunion is a volcanic Island with over 800,000 people living under the French rule. However, recently there has been talk of the need for independence but this country relies heavily on French foreign aid for survival. The unemployment rate is extremely high and the country if poverty stricken. Creole and French remains the major language with Roman Catholics as 86% of the population. The country uses the Euro for its currency needs and has a wide variety of ethnic groups including French, Indian, Pakistani, African and Chinese.

Seychelles

This is a Island chain that has four large islands, 36 small islands and a variety of other small islands. Overall, 14 islands are inhabited by people and there are 82,000 people in these Islands. The government is a republic style government with Creole and English as the most spoken languages, Roman Catholics make up 82% of the population and the ethnic groups is as variant as the island of Reunion. The currency used here is called the Seychelles Rupee. Both Britain and France has ties to this nation historically.

Enjoy golden-sand beaches, lush rainforests, impressive volcanoes, shimmering waterfalls and more. The options are endless on sunny Maui.

WHY SHOULD I GO?

There's a reason honeymooners flock to Maui in droves each year: It's one of the most blissful places on earth. Flourishing greenery, sun-kissed beaches and blue waters set the stage for romance. Add to that an exotic culture, tropical drinks and the soft strumming of a Hawaiian ukulele and you've got a recipe for couples' paradise. Not planning a romantic gateway? Maui offers loads of activities for families and adventurous travelers alike. All that and you don't even need a passport.

WHERE SHOULD I STAY?

World-class hotels abound throughout the island, but the cream of the crop is the Ritz-Carlton in Kapalua. From the moment you arrive and are given a floral lei and a smile, you receive VIP treatment. Staff members go out of their way to make sure each guest feels welcome. Not only will you be impressed by the hotel's service, you will also be dazzled by its setting. The 548-room hotel is located on the northwest coast of the island and is surrounded by a championship golf course and a scenic pineapple plantation. The resort, which was built next to a Hawaiian burial ground back to the year 850, also overlooks a pristine beach and the Pacific Ocean. The resulting environment is a wonderful mixture of modern luxury, spiritual history and natural beauty. What's more, the Ritz boasts a tri-level pool, six tennis courts, a basketball court, walking trails, a state-of-the-art fitness center with exercise classes, a high-end spa and several outstanding restaurants. If you are on your honeymoon the advantage of the hotel's honeymoon packages, which include amenities like champagne and strawberries in your room, rose petals on your bed and a personal concierge. If you're traveling with your children, sign up for the Ritz kids program, which consists of full - or half-day recreation and education activities. If you are interested in learning more about Hawaii's early Polynesian inhabitants, talk to the Ritz's cultural advisor who conducts historical discussions and tours. There is something for everyone at this premier hotel.

WHAT ARE THE BEST ACTIVITIES?

There are enough outdoor activities in Maui to occupy you for several vacations, so you won't want for things to do. You could go on a rainforest hike complete with a waterfall swim with Latatudes "N Adatudes/Maui Eco-Adventures. This tour company offers hikes, kayak trips, bike tours and helicopter rides with knowledgeable guides and picnic lunches. One of their most popular excursions is a hike into the crater of Haleakala, the world"s largest dormant volcano crater.

For those who care to brave the waves, take a surf lesson at the Island Style Surf School in Ka'anapali. The instructors coach you on everything from paddling out to the waves to getting - and staying - up on your board. If you prefer snorkeling, go on a catamaran cruise along Maui's coastline with Kapalua Kai, which stops at prime snorkeling spots (scuba diving is also available). If you go on an excursion between December and April, you may see humpback whales.

Interested in sightseeing on your own? Drive along the world-famous Hana coast and take in the gorgeous state parks, waterfalls and beaches. Then, when you want to relax, head to the Boutique Spa at the Ritz for some pampering. Indulge in one of many treatments, such as a green-tea body wrap, a papaya-pineapple scrub or an aromatherapy massage - which is available outdoors in a cozy hut that is enclosed enough to afford privacy yet open enough to let in the gentle breeze.

WHERE I SHOULD EAT?

No trip to Hawaii would be complete without a true Hawaiian lu'au. Try out the Old Lahaina Lu'au, known as Maui's best and most authentic. The evening begins with a feast of traditional Hawaiian fare, which includes fish, roasted pork and taro (a root plant that is a staple of the Hawaiian diet). Then, as you sip Mai Tais and watch the sun set, enjoy an unforgettable musical hula performance.

For a fabulous meal overlooking the water, head to The Banyan Tree at the Ritz. All creations are elegantly presented and delicious. The Ritz also has a top sushi bar, Kai, which serves only ocean's freshest catches. Mama's Fish House is another popular spot. This converted beach house with Polynesian décor is located in a coconut grove on a secluded white-sand beach. The menu includes fish, crab cakes, lamb chops, Polynesian lobster soup and organic vegetables.

HOW DO I GET THERE?

Most major airlines, including Delta, United and American, fly nonstop out of Los Angeles. There are also several flights from New York with one stopover.

The sound of the surf, the raucous squabbling of seagulls, the sunrises and sunsets... watching squalls come in across the water, feeling the sun beat down on me... With no trouble at all I remember the slimy feel of a flounder flipping in my hand, the unnerving sensation of a school of fish brushing past my legs underwater, the coolness of the calm water on my sun-baked skin when I waded in to swim. I can bring to mind the smells that drifted through the air, a dead fish lying on the beach, a salty northeast wind as opposed to a dry southerly one, a heavy rain on the way, the coconut smell of Coppertone 8.

The best times at the beach though, the ones everyone hoped for and talked about excitedly, were the evenings between early June and late August. Then, if we were lucky, the wind started to blow from the northeast and the night air got a little cooler than the average hot, sultry summer one. The water would get unusually low as the tide was swept out to meet the horizon. Most importantly, the normally brackish bay water turned as salty as the gulf.

All these signs pointed towards a possible jubilee, a natural phenomenon in which the bay denizens, some of which normally live hundreds of feet from the beach, travel to the shallow waters at the shore to escape a suffocating death by the salty, oxygen-depleted water. Most succeed in making it to shore, but many of them don't escape death.

For me, the best jubilees are the ones that start at one or two in the morning and last until midday. By that time the sun has risen high and the process of photosynthesis in the shallow waters has provided enough oxygen to allow the creatures to move back into deeper water. I remember trying to go to sleep during the nights when I had recognized the signs of a potential jubilee, but it was hard because I was anxiously waiting to find out if anything would come of it. If I did manage to fall asleep and woke up to the sound of the telephone ringing when it was still dark, I knew what it was.

My sister and I would jump out of bed, throwing on our bathing suits that we'd left out the night before, just in case, grab some clothes, and race to the car. It takes twenty minutes to get from our house to our grandmother's on the bay, and the drive down the dark, almost deserted roads was torture. I always thought to myself that if we'd been allowed to spend the night we'd already be there.

As soon as the car stopped I would leap out and make a mad dash for the “tilly room,” where I would snatch up a crab net, and fight my sister for rights to a gig. Racing back upstairs, I always waited impatiently for someone to get a floundering light. We had to screw on the propane tank first, then tie on the mantles. Then the gas valve would be opened. The gas would rush out with a sibilant shhhhhhhhh, and the smell of it filled the air until someone held a match to the mantles. Once lit, the mantles cast a large arc of blinding light. Thus equipped, I flew down the front steps and over the path to the beach.

My feet passed over soft pine needles and were pricked by the spiny edges of spent pine cones. Once I finally got to the wet sand at the tide line I bent down and tasted the water to see how salty it was, being careful to avoid any crab claws. Yes, this was IT! I could look out over the calm, clear water to see how the jubilee was progressing. If a jubilee had just started there would be fish and crabs and flounders and stingrays and every other kind of bay animal swimming to shore. It takes skill to deduce what kind of animal is “coming in, particularly in the dark of night.”

Of course I liked to think that I was a pro at it. The flounder swimming in are fairly easy to spot. They leave wakes of telltale v's as they swim on top of the water. The crabs are a little harder to detect. The greenish-blue color of their shells blends in perfectly with the bay water. It was fun to watch the crabs swim because rather than swimming face forward they swim sideways, using their backmost legs, or “swimmers” as they're called colloquially, as paddles to propel themselves.

After I observed the feast swimming to shore I would head slowly towards the creek, walking through the water softly so I wouldn't spook any flounder. Wading into the cool water always brought a shiver, but I completely forgot my discomfort when I saw all the crabs clinging to the pylons and the seawalls that jutted into the water. It was hard to decide which crab to net first when there were so many, so I typically just ran my net along the bulkheads and raked everything in, big and small. Culling was a task saved for later. My net was full after several scoops.

I slid carefully back to the beach to empty my catch into one of numerous buckets we'd brought with us. I say “slid” because along with the bay inhabitants that were mostly harmless there were also many that could inflict a surprisingly stupendous amount of pain. One of these was the stingray, which was usually present in large numbers at jubilees. The stingrays weren't all small either. Some had a wing span as large as a foot and a half. Rays this big, even when buried, could easily be sidestepped , but people would slide into the smaller ones because there were so many and they were harder to see.

Stingrays and flounders have the defensive behavior of burying themselves until only their two eyes are visible, and this makes them difficult to see. A stingray barb entering the foot feels at first like an unusually large thorn piercing the skin. A few minutes later the injured part swells a little and actually starts to hurt. The pain can be alleviated somewhat by baking soda or tobacco, which we always kept handy.

Crabs were generally easy to catch, and very good eating, but my favorite thing to do on a jubilee was gig flounder. Gigging a large flounder gained me an immense amount of respect from the jubilee crowds on the beach. It was a sign that I was a seasoned jubilee goer, that I knew the difference between pan-sized and “the big ones.” Everyone would point and stare at me in awe as I walked down the beach with my trophy held high. I managed to bring in the biggest flounder of the jubilee on a couple of occasions and enjoyed bragging about it for the day. During jubilees the flounder usually congregated down at the creek, where the water is fresh and shallow.

I'd catch all the crabs I wanted at the beginning of the jubilee, then start the half mile walk to the creek for floundering. The water at the creek is filled with thousands of tiny fish: catfish, ground mullet, croaker, pinfish, flounder, sole, minnow, angelfish, needlefish, pufferfish, sheepshead and even the occasional speckled trout. It looks like something out of a television show with all the shiny bodies jumping in the air and churning the water into soft, silky foam. Hundreds of baby flounder and sole sit underneath all the torpedo-shaped fish.

I had fun running my hands through all the little fish, then staked out an area at the creek and walked around it looking for flounder, being sure to hold the floundering light in front of me so I wouldn't cast a shadow and scare my prey. Once I spotted one I walked quietly through the water to stand over it and slowly lifted my gig. Gigging flounder is tricky because the refraction of light in the water makes the flounder appear to be where he isn't.

I gigged with a steady hand to secure my thrashing prize to the sandy bottom, then squatted down to slide my hand under the flounder, being careful to avoid the razor sharp teeth. Holding the flounder firmly to the gig, I lifted my impaled victim out of the water. Generally I stayed at the creek floundering for the rest of the early morning, securing a legacy for myself. I had to run back to my grandmother's periodically for more buckets to hold the catch.

As the suns' rays begin to pierce the early morning darkness the fish in the creek start dwindling in number. At that point the group catch was usually about fifty pounds of crab and flounder that needed to be hauled back to my grandmother's, so I relinquished my gig to one of the younger cousins and lugged one of the buckets into the water so I could float it home.

I always kept my eye out for softshell crabs as I walked. I knew they'd be hiding in the patches of seaweed that lay close to shore. Many times as I walked back, I passed neighbors who were just waking up and realizing what they'd slept through. I could count on the older people to offer me a drink, and I always accepted a coke from one lady who my cousins and I dubbed “the coke lady.” A spirit of camaraderie usually reserved for the Christmas season pervades the beach on a jubilee.

Back at the house the buckets were left on the beach for some unlucky soul to cart upstairs and I would grab a hold of my cast net. Shrimp could be caught all day. Throwing off the pier is where I usually cast, but on a jubilee I seemed to pull in more if I threw in waist high water, so that's what I did. I could see the delicate, telltale flicks on top of the water that indicated shrimp were in the vicinity. I felt the satisfying weight of the cast net in my hands, not too heavy, not too light. I cast my net and the shrimp started jumping wildly. I loved pulling in the net and seeing what I had caught each time. I had to be careful taking the shrimp out. Shrimp are crustaceans, and though small they have body armor, a short spear coming from their forehead and a spine at the end of their tail.

They use these defenses by spearing any predator that comes too close or, more often, flicking their tail spastically. I always picked the shrimp up by their heads and squeezed to avoid this. I always imagined that I was squashing their oxygen supply to the brain so they couldn't think straight. Picked up right or not, I always ended up getting stuck by at least one shrimp. I would haul in my seven-foot cast net until my arms ached, and then it was time to go seining with my sister.

Our seine net is twenty feet long and there's always a mummified aquatic corpse and dried seaweed stuck in the mesh. The battered buoys floated on top of the water and the lead weights dragged on the sand as my sister and I pulled the net towards the shore. I tried not to concentrate on the feel of the gooey mud oozing through my toes as I pivoted, turning the net slowly and at the same time keeping my end down so the bottom wouldn't be lifted. We pulled the net to the beach, never knowing what we were going to find. What I liked catching best were the puffer fish. The puffer fish takes in water and distends himself to about 3 times normal size to scare away predators. When it's picked up the puffer fish, aka the blowfish, will spit all the water out and deflate like a tiny balloon. Watching this spectacle was a thrill every time.

At the end of the hard day's work on the beach I helped clean and cook the catch. This lasted until supper time. Everyone took turns swapping jubilee stories as we worked. Fish scales flew and crab juice squirted everywhere. The boiling pots overflowed numerous times, sending my grandmother scurrying around the kitchen. Finally, it was time to eat! I can almost taste the fresh fried flounder, cooked in cornmeal and then doused in lemon juice; the creamy white grits, not too grainy or runny, that were drenched in butter; fried soft shell crabs that were eaten shell and all, stuffed crabs, baked crabs, crab cakes, and crab claws that were boiled to a lustrous red-orange; hundreds of shrimp, boiled, broiled, fried, some used for alfredo, others for gumbo. Then there's the gumbo itself, filled with shrimp, crab, okra, tomatoes, bay leaves and plenty of seasoning and spices. It's a taste of heaven on earth!

After thoroughly enjoying my feast, I would amble down to the beach just as the sun was setting. The sun's rays reflected off the water, turning the bay different shades of red, orange, yellow, and silver. The early morning low tide had risen to engulf another four feet of beach. Walking along the water's edge, I could see that most traces of the jubilee were gone. The only evidence of the aquatic event was the discarded shells of crabs and shrimp, swirling at the tide line. As the first stars began to appear, tranquility reigned again after the excitement of the day.

I headed back to the house to stretch out on one of my grandmother's many couches. With a bone-weary exhaustion settling on my body and a surfeit of seafood resting in my stomach, I settled into the soft cushions, snapshots from the day still running through my head. I was completely worn out and smelled like a fish yet there was a complete inner contentment in my soul. God had smiled on me and all was right with the world.

Notwithstanding warnings from folks decrying this choice of time of travel, Goa being very hot, this being peak of the Off-season etc etc, flights to Goa were completely packed. With mostly Indians. Lots of children .

Despite Goa being touted as a destination of choice that draws German charter flights like a Goan to his feni, the airport in Goa remains an unassuming type. No aerobridges, tunnels etc. You get off the plane and sort of trudge into an enclosure which quickly leads you outside the airport, without endless corridors with endless signs . No one looks at you with suspicion as you pull your luggage (the current style elsewhere being, treat travelers in an Guilty-until-proven-innocent manner, all in the name of security.).

You have a choice of prepaid taxis to take you to your destination, ours being Panjim. Immediately outside the airport, you see the moderate intercity traffic, and spying buses trundling in the distance and true to our middle class values, we do a fast trudge with our bags to the main road and back. The buses are decently crowded with folks who are NOT on holiday, and going about their work with baskets and stuff, and since we do a lot of push-push-shove-shove-squeeeeze-through-to-the-exit-stuff in Mumbai, we decide to treat ourselves to a taxi in Goa, and pretend we are on a five star vacation. Turns out this was to be one of the two taxi rides we took in our entire 5 day stay...

Goa to me, earlier was a bunch of cities interspersed in a wealth of small villages dotted with greenery. The earlier lack of multistoreyed dwellings was admirable. The biggest difference this time was there are no well defined village boundaries any more. There seems to be some sort of boom in ex-village construction. Some of the older mangalore-tiled houses with intricate trelisses and bowers of greenery leaning over imposing entrances have given way to cement-concrete monstrosities.

Some unavoidable things like industrial areas have come up, but they still try and blend in with the surroundings, moderating their external display, so-to-speak. Earlier, 25 years ago, as you entered the main village area, you saw a nice football field , a church and temple, where you read announcements of impending matches with a visiting village team from elsewhere; folks landed up to cheer their team, to be followed by a goodwill feni session post match, possibly with a great meal.

Today, what really strikes you is the number of houses in the village with doors locked from outside. My friend from Goa, who we met after 25 years , tells us that this doesn't necessarily mean that people have migrated ; it also could mean, that someone is out for shopping etc, and IT IS NO LONGER SAFE TO LEAVE YOUR HOUSE UNLOCKED IF YOU ARE STEPPING OUT FOR A WHILE. The possibility of people from the countryside going to work in Panjim also cannot be denied, given the development of educational institutions over the years , and the transport infrastructure.

(We in Mumbai , who travel 80km daily , packed liked sardines , simply to go to work, cannot really say a thing. Traveling to work in Goa is a very civilized affair. Buses are generally going from point A to Z, and anyone along the way , at any point, stops the bus anywhere and gets on it. You politely wave, the driver politely stops, the conductor shouts out the area names while leaning from the steps, just to introduce some excitement, and "transport" happens...).

Roads in Goa are wonderful. Mostly 2 lane highways, sorry, roads. I don't recall seeing single speed limit sign during my entire stay. Everyone drives as fast as they want. Our taxi driver did a 1 hour drive in 35 minutes flat. The approved thing is to overtake huge vehicles at great speed. The only time you cannot do that is when a motorcycle with a pillion rider is simultaneously trying to overtake you at the same time, irrespective of the width of the road.

I didn't experience a single pot hole. Goa has a climate similar to Mumbai. Yes, I know the density of traffic in Mumbai is huge. But here in Mumbai potholes are a way of life. Goa is dotted with new roundabouts where traffic gracefully swirls around before getting into a frenzied acceleration, and I admire this effort by the government to temper as well as beautify in one shot.

Given the 25 years that elapsed after my previous visit, one thing that reassures me is the effort being put , in maintaining the greenery in Goa. Goa is still lush with mangroves, trees, and i suppose individual riches are still counted in terms of how much land you have and how many mango, cashew and coconut trees crown it. You notice "houses nestled amongst trees" as opposed to trees decorating the house. Which is how it was, and how it should be.

Goa tourism tries to do a commendable job running various tours. The communication interface when you call from out of state is good. Relevant information, quick information, someone has some great ideas about how websites can be usefully planned.

The problem starts in "Real-Time."

Assorted bookings are made, coupons given for trips on buses, but the communication infrastructure, network wise, is simply , not there. The centralized booking people convey arbitrary bookings to the people at the tour start site. One feels they get so carried away with the IT aspect of the whole thing, that they simply forget to pass on the information to people at the bus-level.

And so, for every tour we took, there was a lot of frustrated yelling, discussion, cursing the GTDC people. Walking back and forth to counters. On finally resolving the issue, we would still keep our time everywhere as defined in the brochure; which leads me to believe that these mess-ups are all planned/built-in and taken care off by the GTDC system. Absolutely shameless and amazing.

Waves of anger and frustration, enveloped by the breezes of the peaceful Goa countryside, soon gave way to a bus , speeding along, playing the latest music, interspersed with pithy comments from the tour guide. One cannot help but smile , when , on explaining the importance of Aguada fort, where there is a jail, the tour guide PROUDLY mentions that 2 very prominent criminals managed to escape from there. There is even a bust of one of the criminals , in the fancy restaurant where he was finally arrested.

Folks in Goa have an inborn environmental awareness. There are several watchdog organizations today that ensure that planted trees exceed cut trees during any construction activity. One is delighted to see inland waterways, and mangroves ; driving inland in the hills, pineapples bought from local chaps certainly taste different to those I have eaten so far; much more sweet.

Old women hawkers on the streets and markets of Panjim, sell raw cashews and Goa's local mangoes. A glance across the hills emphasizes the insistence of non-highrises. The coastal regulations rules prohibit construction within 500 meters of the coastline. But sadly, as elsewhere in India, (but to a much lesser extent) these rules are flouted by appealing to higher (?) authorities at the Center. Witness the Tata housing in the Betim Hills. JRD would NEVER have approved.

The old quarter of Panjim, now being treated as a Heritage area, has these amazing "gulleys", (small pathways), with even more amazing houses with intricate carvings and trellises, and a very unique way of announcing the owners name, in a blue delft like plate fitted into the wall outside. Dark blue, brick red etc appear to be the favorite colors of buildings, and white comes a close second . These areas are dotted with home style restaurants , serving typical Goan food, and many are written up and recommended in things like the lonely Planet Guide.

Lonely or not, recommended or not, we were treated to a lunch in one of these, by our Goan friend towards the end of our trip. Fish Curry and rice being the staple, this place excels in serving various varieties of fish. The non vegetarians amongst us, ate with single minded devotion to the plate in front, oblivious to the coming and going of electricity, conversation, etc. Plates were wiped clean with "pao" till they gleamed, and fingers licked till there was nothing more to be licked. Amazing food, at even more amazing prices; bringing out th Goans' natural predeliction for the "good times" to be enjoyed by one and all.

Which finally brings us to Sussegaad. I am convinced that after such great meals of Fish Curry and rice, a person gets so satiated, that a short nap (after a drink of chilled beer...) is on order. Maybe its the quality of rice, the lush quality of the coconut used, or the omega 3 magic of the fish fat, but most businesses in Goa come to a halt between 1pm and say 4pm. This is Sussegaad time. Relax. Take a nap. Release your tensions.

And then there is the Ferry. Despite the Panjim Mandovi river bridge spanning across Panjim and Betim , most people still like to travel across the river by Ferry. On my last trip to Goa, I remember paying for it. Since 2002 this is now free, except for vehicles with wheels for which there is a minor fee. And so you see tons of two wheelers emerging , as if from the river, when the Ferry docks at Panjim or Betim. The heady combination of sea smells, fish and diesel fumes probably creates the right incentive for rushing to have a cold chilled beer /feni wherever you plan to go next.

On our last day in Panjim we were looking for a place that sells a typical Goan sweet called "Dose"; I may have the spelling wrong, but folks, its the taste that matters. Our Goan friend served this to us over tea at her riverfront living room in Betim. This resulted in us depleting her entire supply of this sweet. A deadly combination of gram flour (chana flour), coconut, and local jaggery (probably toddy based) this melt-in-your-mouth stuff has not been given the publicity it deserves. Goa Tourism, WAKE UP!!!

It was 1 pm when our taxi taking us to the airport came. On hearing about our quest, the driver, trying to beat the Sussegaad timings, drove in a frenzy in the opposite direction to the airport, to take us to a shop where he knew this was sold. He then came after us to see whether we were able to get it, and then even moved the car and parked it where we didn't have to walk back a big distance to get back in again.

Izzat ka swaal tha. (To those unfamiliar with this, it means "it was question of goan prestige...").

And so we were back on the way to the airport. Whizzing past, trying to beat out previous timing between Panjim and the airport. Maybe the driver was yet to have his lunch. Maybe he wanted to get back to a Sussegaad afternoon over fish curry, rice and feni.

Like I said, there are NO speed limits. Maybe I will recommend him to Michael Schumaker. And maybe Schumaker will take him, provided, of course , he comes along with the fish curry and rice.

And a picture of Schumaker winning his races and getting doused by a bottle of feni in Monaco, is too much to imagine.

Time for Sussegaad.