I took a room in a house in Calangute, not that far from Mapusa (or Mapça, whichever is in vogue now). There was a cluster of mud-walled, thatch-roofed houses sitting together in a palm grove that gave onto the beach. No electricity, no running water. An idyll. The family was most proud of one facility they had installed recently for the comfort of western travellers - there were no holiday-makers back then - they had installed a toilet. Pure, gleaming white porcelain it was, sitting like a throne on a raised mound of hard earth behind the house with a straw fence around for privacy. Never yet been used.

I think the family were a bit annoyed that I chose to use their own original arrangements on the first day - a hole in the ground secreted in a less conspicuous corner of the yard and screened off by a mud wall. I knew that as soon as I would have sat on the porcelain a crowd would have gathered to peer through the generous gaps in the fence to catch a glimpse of … well we get the picture, and it wouldn't have been a pretty one.

That night however I decided to ingratiate myself with my landlord so I ventured out to use his toilet. By then I knew that all the children were asleep and that no-one would have eyesight good enough to be able to penetrate the darkness well enough to see much. So off I went.

I took a torch, the one luxury item I allowed myself when travelling. I took my little jar of water as well, having forgone the luxury of paper.

My fear was snakes, and I intended turning the torch off once I had found my way to the toilet. Inside I shone the beam all round the walls and floor making sure no reptile was lurking. Then I turned the light into the toilet bowl itself just to be certain, and resting just where I would have expected water, was a large pink and black wet living thing. It moved. I moved. It wasn't a snake.

Round the back of the hut I found an enormous water buffalo, its tongue stuck into the open pipe leading from the toilet

The arrangements where that everything deposited in the porcelain bowl would slither on out the back of the hut into an open drain, which in turn led on into a stream that flowed into the sea. Problem was the buffalo had got there first.

Now I don't know how far a buffalo's tongue can reach, but I wasn't risking lowering my butt onto that seat.

The problem is not with the women travelers. The problem is with Indians. Many of them, including educated Indians, think that all western women travelling in India are "available" or are "looking for sex" and certainly would not mind a pass or two. It could be that their thinking is shaped by western movies. Indian newspapers and news channels certainly don't give the impression that western women travelling alone in India are so fired by sex that they are eager to jump into the first available bed of an Indian.

Nearly all women who have travelled alone in India or even those who have travelled in the company of their companions, boyfriends or husbands will tell you that India was fun but.... Just a few months ago an English teenager travelling with her mother was raped and killed in Goa, a favorite haunt of tourists in India. Goa has scores of unspoiled white-sand beaches. Music is loud and clear, nights are warm and breezy and the food is good and cheap. Goans are friendly and their wine is good and inexpensive. In that romantic and dangerous setting, the English teenager - given to drugs, according to newspapers - was already in treacherous territory. High on drugs, one night she was raped and killed.

Many years ago, I had an American colleague. She was young, friendly, chatty, charming and attractive. One summer she went alone to Simla, the onetime summer capital of the British Raj, and there she was raped at knifepoint in her hotel room. Apparently she had befriended a young man who pulled a knife when she refused to give in to his demand that they have sex. All the qualities that she was proud of - and so were we - got her into big trouble.

It is common to see Indians cat-calling or making a verbal pass at western women travelling alone on the streets of Delhi. There are few who aren't approached for sex or fondled when they find themselves alone in the company of men in crowded elevators or queues.

A British freelance journalist returned home recently after spending six months in India. No doubt, she found much to write about. She certainly had fun but one evening in the desert state of Rajasthan, famed for its palaces, forts and princes, she was raped. But she was defiant and determined and decided to pursue the only legal course open to her. She went to the police and she was sent for a medical check-up. There the doctors laughed at her and called her a whore because she was single and not a virgin.

It isn't that India is not fun. But some simple precautions will ensure western women travelling in India return home without the trauma of being harassed (Indian newspapers call it "eve teasing") and memories of a nice place well-visited.

Here are some tips:

• Don't travel alone, if you can. Travel in twosomes or threesomes. Men are less likely to bother you if you are not alone. If you are not alone, the men assume you are not "easily available". A better insurance is travelling in the company of men.
• Don't accept a drink or cigarette. When a guy offers you a drink or a cigarette that's his first uncertain and tentative invitation to his bed. Avoid it, if you can.
• Don't strike up a conversation with a stranger in a lonely place. If you do, you will probably be sending out invitation to harassment, if not sex.
• Never discuss subjects with sexual connotations. If you do, you are probably sending an unintended message that you are "available". Even if you are in a friendly crowd or at a party, it is more than likely some guy will slither up to you say he has a warm bed waiting for you.
• Dress properly. If you walk into a street, wearing a dress that's showing your cleavage, sex-starved Indians will see it as a smooth, clear, mountainous path to the peaks of joy. Avoid it.
• Don't use the f... word within the hearing of Indians. The word sounds like an invitation to them.
• In a cinema hall, train, aircraft or elevator, if your hand or any other part of your body touches the guy next to you, move it away immediately. The longer you allow the touch, the stronger the invitation to the guy next to you, even if it is not intended.
• If a guy is trying to strike up a conversation with you - and you don't want to be in that conversation - simply scowl or glower at him. Most of these guys are cowards and they fear nothing more than a woman glowering at him.
• Avoid guides at Agra and Jaipur who shove printed cards at you saying they can show you the Taj Mahal and in between slip in a card saying "I am an acrobat in bed". Don't smile at them. Don't encourage them unless you want to court danger. Hire a certified government guide.
• Don't wink at men when you are talking to them. That's the oldest form of invitation.

India is fun and you are better off keeping it that way. Good luck and happy travelling.

Shwedagon Pagoda - Myanmar

The Shwedagon ("shwe" means gold and "Dagon" is the former name of Yangon) Pagoda is a 98-meter (322 feet) coned shaped giant, golden and glistering stupa which is situated in Yangon, Myanmar. Shwedagon, the "Mother of all pagodas in Myanmar" is the most well-known sacred Buddhist pagoda in Yangon which is also one of the main tourist destinations in Myanmar. This notable pagoda is located at No. 1, Shwedagon Pagoda Road, Dagon Township in Yangon, Myanmar. Archaeologists believed that it was built between the 6th and 10th centuries or 2, 500 years ago by the Burmese King Binnya U of the Mon Dynasty. However, according to the records by Buddhist monks, it was built before the Lord Buddha died in 486 BC.

According to the legend of the pagoda, two trader brothers from Myanmar namely Tapussa and Bhallika led a caravan of bullock-carts to India and there they came across the Buddha who had recently attained His Enlightenment or Buddha hood. They received eight of the Buddha's hairs to be enshrined in the Shwedagon Pagoda. Relics of the four former Buddhas are enshrined within the pagoda. They are staff of Kakusandha, the water filter of Konagamana, a piece of the robe of Kassapa and eight hairs of Gautama, the historical Buddha. The myth has it said that when the golden container was opened to where the eight hairs of Buddha were kept, the rays emanated from the hairs rising up to the heaven and down to the hell, enabling the blind to see, the deaf to hear and the dumb to speak.

The base of the Pagoda has a perimeter of 1,420 feet and its height is 326 feet above the platform. It has been estimated that about 8688 solid gold bars were used to plate its surrounding domes and the main stupa took 13513 solid gold bars. This pagoda has 4 entrances (mouk) that lead to the platform (yin byin) made on the top of the Singuthara Hill. A pair of mystical lions (chinthe) is located on its gates. The second Buddha statue, Konagamana stands on the top of the steps. The base of the stupa is made of bricks and covered with golden leaves. No one knows what is inside the base of the pagoda. According to the legendary tales, there are non-stop flying and turning swords to protect the pagoda from the intruders. Some local people say that there are underground tunnels lead to Bagan and Thailand.

The heavy gilded Shwedagon Pagoda has an octagonal base with eight smaller stupas on each eight sides, summing up a total of 64. At each corner of the platform, Manokthihas (sphinxes) are surrounded by a number of "chintes." The eight planetary posts at each cardinal point of the compass around the Shwedagon Pagoda are the symbolizations of the eight days of the week, each with its own animal and planet symbol. A gilded Buddha image made of alabaster is placed beside each planetary post.

The Golden Temple - India

The Golden Temple (Sri Harmandir Sahib or Sri Darbar Sahib) is the most significant shrine of the Sikhs and it is also one of the oldest Sikh gurudwara. It is located on a small island in the center of a pool called Amritsar (pool of ambrosial nectar), India. Its golden color is due to the overlay of gold foil, and hence it gets its name as a Golden Temple. The idea of establishing this temple was initiated by the 4th guru of the Sikhs, Guru Ram Das (1574 -1581) or more commonly known as "guru di nagri" which carries the meaning of city of the Sikh Guru. This temple was first established in 1601 and was rebuilt by the Sikh ruler, Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1803. The 5th Nanak, Guru Arjan Sahib (1581 -1606) had conceived the idea of designing the architectural framework of the Golden Temple.

The Golden Temple is built on a 67 feet square platform in the center of the Sarovar (tank). There is a door in the East, West, North and South respectively, and the door flame of its arch is measured 10 feet in height and 8 feet 6 inches in breath. The architecture of the Golden Temple reflects a unique harmony between the Muslims and the Hindus and thus it is regarded as the best architectural specimens in the world. This architectural style has been used to create an independent Sikh school in the history of India. Unlike a traditional Hindu Temple where the devotees have to climb up to offer their salutations as the structure is built on higher level, Guru Arjan Sahib had it created on lower level than its surrounding ground so that it is accessible to every person to offer homage to this holy shrine irrespective of his or her caste (Kshatriya, Brahmin, Sudra or Vaisya), creed, gender, race, color and religion.

White Buildings of the Golden Temple

Sarowar is another interesting site to visit. It had been lined with bricks and steps had been built along its sides so that the devout could bathe in the immortal pool. It is interesting to learn that this three-storey-high temple is surrounded by the lake. The body of water is encompassed by a backdrop of bright-white buildings on all its four sides. The Golden Temple is crowned with a dome shaped like an inverted lotus. The two upper stories have gilded while its lower story is in white marble. The walls within its entrances are decorated with carved wooden panels and elaborate inlay work in gold and silver. The interior of the temple is decorated with semi precious stones, frescoes and glass works. The best time to visit this temple is in the early morning on weekdays before it gets crowded and visitors are asked to take off their shoes before entering the temple premises.

Another significance feature of the structure of the Golden temple is that it has four entrances to open to worshipers of all castes and creeds and this feature is quite different from most of the Hindu Temples that only have one gate. Other remarkable feature is the scripture of the Sikhs which highlights the importance of the unity of God and brotherhood of man. The scripture compiled by the Siri Guru Granth Sahib Ji consisting of 1,948 pages and more than 7,000 hymns.

Chion-in Temple - Japan

Chion-in (or Chionin) Temple is a large and well-known temple in Japan which is situated in the north of Maruyama Park and Yasaka-jinja Shrine in Kyoto's Higashiyama District, Japan. It is 8-minute-walk from Higashiyama Subway Station (Tozai Line) or 5-minute-walk from the front bus stop of Chion-in. Being the headquarter of the Jodo Shu (Pure Land) sect of Buddhism, Chion-in is one of the most important and popular sacred sites in Japan.

The Jodo sect was founded by Hōnen in the year of 1175, who proclaimed that sentient beings are reborn in Amida Buddha's Western Paradise (Pure Land) by reciting the nembutsu, Amida Buddha's name in devotion and faith. His simple teachings have attracted large numbers of followers among the commoners and have helped Jodo Buddhism become the most popular sect in Japan, ahead of the Jodo-shin and Shingon sects.

The temple was built in 1234 in the memory of his master and was named Chion-in. Several buildings in the complex were burnt in 1633 and the current buildings are reconstructions dated back from the 17th century under the reign of the 3rd Tokugawa Shogun Lemitsu (1604 - 1651). In October 2002, Chion-in Temple was used in the filming of Tom Cruise's movie entitled "The Last Samurai."

The entrance to Chion-in is through a 24-meter-tall two-storey Sanmon Gate (main gate) and later up a steep flight of stairs. It was the oldest structure built in 1619 and has been designated as a Japanese National Treasure.

Its ground is always crowded with people praying before a large brazier that holds small sticks of incense in front of the images of the main hall. The main Hall is big enough to accommodate 3,000 people and the corridor behind this gate leads to the Assembly Hall is called Uguisu-bari (nightingale floor or literally means "bush warbler floor boards").

This type of floor is constructed to "sing" at every footstep to alert the monks of the presence of intruders.

Chion-in Temple's copper bell is the largest and the heaviest in Japan with its weight of 74 tons. It needs 17 people to ring this bell. This bell is so special that particularly during the New Year's Eve ceremony in which the bell is struck 108 times by 17 monks, representing the 108 desires in the mind to be scared off before the New Year begins in Japan every year.

Another interesting feature to note is the roof beams are craved with the family crest of the Tokugawa family: Three hollyhock leaves. Chion-in Temple has a large and small guest houses built in 1641 in the Irimoya roof style called Ohojo and Kohojo which are designated as Important Cultural Heritages in Japan. Other Important Cultural Properties at the temple are buildings such as the Kyo-zo (storehouse for sculptures), Miei-do (hall enshrining the founder of the Jodo sect, Hōnen), Dai-shoro (room for the priest), Dai-shoro (large bell tower), Sho-hojo, Chokushi-mon (gate for Imperial messengers) and Kuri (kitchen and living quarters for the priests).

Kek Lok Si Temple - Malaysia

Over years, the historical heritage site of Kek Lok Si (Cantonese) Buddhist Temple, the Temple of Supreme Bliss (Penang Hokkien) or "Ji Le Si" (Mandarin) which means the temple of nirvana is one of the main attractions on the island of Penang, Malaysia.

This island was once the administrative center for the British East India Company during the colonial days. Kek Loh Si is not only the oldest, well-known and largest temples in Malaysia, but also one of the finest Buddhist temples in the Southeast Asia region.

It is situated at the hills of Ayer Hitam, or Crane Hill, which is a place recommended as a retreat for Taoist practitioners striving for immortality. At the hills of Ayer Hitam, visitors can view the panoramic scenery of Penang town.

The Kek Lok Si project was mooted by the chief monk of the Goddess of Mercy Temple of Pitt Street. This project received the sanction of the Manchu Emperor Kuang Hsi with the collaboration of the consular representative of China in Penang. The Emperor Kuang His had then bestowed a tablet and gift of 70,000 volumes of the Imperial Edition of the Buddhist Sutras. The construction of Kek Lok Si Temple was first established in 1893, but it was only in 1930, the Thai King, King Rama VI laid the foundation stone for this site and thus it is sometimes referred as Pagoda of Rama VI or the Pagoda of 10,000 Buddhas. This 30-meter-high and 7-storey pagoda is a mixture of Chinese octagonal base, Thai design at its middle tier, and a Burmese crown, reflecting the temple's embrace of both Mahayana and Theravada Buddhism. This work of ancient Burmese, Chinese and Thai craftsmen took more than 20 years to build. A 30.2-meter-high Goddess of Mercy (Guanyin or Avalokitesvara) statue was completed in 2002. This all bronze Goddess of Mercy statue is flanked by a few tall structures of Luohan (Guards) statues. Another Guanyin head and shoulder section was built atop an annexed temple roof.

Visitors are recommended to walk all the way up of 193 steps lining with many stalls selling all types of handicrafts, souvenirs and bric-a-brac on both sides of the steps to Kek Lok Si Temple. While catching breath with the blowing wind, you will see a tortoise liberation pond where you can buy some vegetables to feed. Another alternative is to drive up and park near the vegetarian restaurant to avoid walking up flight of stairs. However, you will miss many souvenir stalls lined up both sides of the stairs.

After you get passing all the souvenir stalls, you will reach Ban Po Thar, a seven tier tower with a merge structure of Burmese at the top, Thai in the middle and Chinese at the bottom. In another three-storey shrine, there is a large Thai Buddha image donated by the king of Thailand. Besides that there are also several halls with old and new Buddhas and engravings, bell towers and other typical temple structures to visit at Kek Lok Si Temple.

The temple is set against scenic surroundings of beauty and tranquility with some features of gardens, sculptures and shrines. A short tram is available to see the both new and old giant statues of the Goddess of Mercy. Each year, during the Chinese New Year, the entire Kek Lok Si temple will be decorated with many colorful lanterns and lights. At night, when all the lights lit up, it is a beautiful sight to be experienced.

Prambanan Temple - Indonesia

The Prambanan Temple is the biggest and most beautiful typical Hindu temple which is located at Bokoharjo Village, Prambanan, East of Yogyakarta, Indonesia. It is 20-minute away from Yogyakarta city or about 18km east of Yogyakarta. Locally, this temple is also known as the Loro Jongrang Temple, or the temple of the "Slender Virgin." It is believed to have been established in the middle of the 9th century by King Balitung Maha Sambu or Rakai Pikatan, king of the second Mataram dynasty, during the Sanjaya Dynasty.

This beautiful temple, in fact, it is a group of Hindu temples (candi), with the largest temple stretching 47m into the sky. The massive collection of Hindu temples was believed to build in the 10th century by the rulers of central Java and defeaters of the Sailendra Dynasty, Mataram Kingdom. Many temples were damaged due to the earthquake in Java in 2006, but it was opened for visitors in 2007. This temple is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as it is one of the largest Hindu temples in Southeast Asia region which has a characteristic of having pointed and typical Hindu temple architecture.

Many reliefs adorned the temple's walls depicting the famous epic of Ramayana. It possesses 8 shrines, of which 3 of them are dedicated to manifestations of Hindu Gods of Siva, Vishnu and Brahma. Siva is the biggest temple, the other smaller temples; on its right is Brahma and Vishnu is on its left. The main temple of Siva has a height of 130 feet and it contains 4 rooms with 4 statues inside, accommodating the magnificent statue of Shiva's consort, Durga.

In front of the Siva Temple is the temple of Nandi, the bull or a Siva's transport. The temple of Vishnu or the Protector has 4 arms and its front temple is the temple of the garuda (the mythical-like eagle). The temple of Brahma or the Creator has 4 heads and in front of Brahma's pad is the temple of the swan which is a Brahma's vehicle.

The Prambanan Temple has three concentric squares. They are outer square (222 x 390 meters), middle square (110 x 110 meters) and center square (34 x 34 meters) and these squares are surrounded by a one meter boundary wall with gates to connect to the other squares. No temples are found in the outer square, but there are 224 Perwara temples inside the middle square which are lined in 4 rows of temples. The first row contains 68 temples, followed by 60 temples in the second row, 52 temples in the third row and 44 temples in the fourth row. The temples are arranged in a manner that the lower lined outside and gradually getting higher and higher while approaching to its center. There are altogether 16 small and big temples inside the center square. There are also 50 stones of inscriptions written in white, black and red color at Prambanan Temple.

Mahabodhi Temple - India

Bodh Gaya or Bodhgaya is the holiest place associated with the life of Gautama Buddha, the founder of Buddhist religion. Bodh Gaya is located in the central part of the Bihar state in the north-eastern India near the river Niranjana or the Falgu, which is also a part of the greatest Ganges plains and is 13km away from the Gaya town, 450km west of Calcutta, and 90km south of Patna.

It was in the 3rd century B.C.; Emperor Asoka built a monastery and temple here. This temple is used to be called the Bodhimanda-vihāra (Pali) but now it is named as the Mahabodhi Temple (literally means "Great Awakening Temple") that is the location where Siddhartha Gautama, the Buddha attained enlightenment. Bodh Gaya is then become an important Buddhist pilgrimage, a significant archaeological site and a vital study center which attracts many believers and tourists from all over the world every year coming to study Buddhism and the art of meditation, or to absorb the aura of solemn grandeur that surrounds Bodh Gaya. In 2002, Mahabodhi Temple became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Mahabodhi Temple marks the spot where Buddha attained enlightenment and his life of preaching which is located adjacent to a descendent of the original Bodhi Tree.

It is marked by stone lotuses and has a 50m (170 feet) tower. The basement of the temple is 15m in length and in breadth with its height of 52m rising in the form of a slender pyramid until it reaches its neck which is cylindrical in shape. On top of the temple are Chatras which symbolize sovereignty of religion.

Four towers on its four corners rise gracefully giving a feel of holy structure. Inside the temple in the main sanctum, on an altar, there is a colossal image of Buddha in a sitting posture touching the ground by his right hand (bhumisparsha mudra), facing eastward at the place where Buddha immersed in meditation gazing east under the Bodhi Tree. This image is said to have a history of 1,700 years old. There are carvings on the stupas which aged 2,500 years ago depicting tales from Buddha's lives. Ratnagar is a place where the Buddha spend one week sitting there and according to the inscription it is believed that five colors came out from his body.

Chankaramana is another sacred spot of the Buddha and it is believed that wherever the Buddha put his feet the lotus flowers springing from his footsteps.

The 80-feet high Bodhi Tree (Pipal Tree Ficus Religiosa) and a pond is situated inside the temple complex where according to legends, Buddha had meditated here. The present 115-year old Bodhi Tree growing here is the 5th succession of the original tree which Buddha attained enlightenment or Nirvana by sitting under this tree.

It was recorded that the original Bodhi Tree's shoot was taken by a daughter of Ashoka, Bhikkhuni Sangamitta to Sri Lanka in the 3rd century, and the tree was then planted by the Lankan king, Devanampiyatissa at the Mahavihara monastery in Anuradhapura and this tree is said to flourish till today. This Bodhi Tree is also documented as the oldest and most venerated tree in the world. The red sandstone is said to be the Vajrasana, diamond throne or the seat of enlightenment, on which Buddha sat on while meditating under the Bodhi Tree. The platform beneath the tree has a stone carving of Buddha's footsteps where the devout make flower offerings.

There are quadrangular stone railing with a height of 0.2m around the Bodhi Tree and the Mahabodhi Temple. Lotus motifs are used among these ancient railings. The older set of railings were made of sandstone dated back to about 150 B.C. while the other set of railings were believed to make from course granite dated back to Gupta period (300 - 600 A.D.). The older set portrays a design of Lakshimi being bathed by elephants, Surya riding a chariot drawn by four horses, but figures of stupas, Garudas are found on the other set. A visit to the Bodh Gaya Archaeological Museum is a must for religious art enthusiasts as they can see gold, bronze and stone images of Buddha. Apart from that a large collection of Buddhist sculptures from 1st century B.C. to 11th century A.D. are well kept at one place here.

Another interesting spot to visit is a Jewel Walk or Chankramanar which was built as a low platform adorned with 19 lotuses lining parallel to the Mahabodhi Temple on its north side. It is believed that the Buddha was strolling here while he was in a deep thought during the second week after his supreme attainment. In this place a stupa called Animeschalochana was built which is situated to the north of the Chankramanar.

Since 1953, Bodh Gaya had an architectural amalgamation of many cultures as it had been developed as an international place of pilgrimage. Most Buddhists came over from different countries to construct their representative architectural monasteries in Bodh Gaya. Thus, one will see a Thai temple which looks very much like a typical colorful Wat of Thailand, Tibetan temple and monastery houses the massive Dharma Chakra or the large prayer wheel, Burmese monastery, Japanese temple (Indosan Niponji) that has a very beautiful image of Buddha brought from Japan, and Tai Bodhi Khan monastery built by Buddhist tribes from Assam and Arunachal Pradesh. There are also Vietnamese, Nepalese, Taiwanese, Sri Lankan, Bhutanese, Korean and Bangladeshi monasteries. Many shrines were constructed with enshrined images for use as places of worship. There were also a large number of images of Buddha and the carved inscriptions showing that pilgrims from Sri Lanka, China and Myanmar had visited this place between 7th and 10th century A.D.

The City of 10,000 Buddhas - United States of America

The City of 10,000 Buddhas which is situated in Talmage, Mendocino Country, California is one of the largest Buddhist monasteries in the United States. It was established in 1976 and Master Hsuan-Hua is the founder of this city.

The city is noted particularly for its Dharma Realm Buddhist University, Tathagata Monastery, Joyous Giving House (convent), Instilling Virtue Elementary School and Developing Goodness Secondary School, International Institute for the Translation of Buddhist Texts and the Center for East-West Medicine. Another noted feature is the Jeweled Hall of 10,000 Buddhas which was constructed in 1982.

This hall accommodates a 6-meter statue of a thousand-handed Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva (Guan Yin). Its walls are adorned with 10,000 images of Buddha. There are also murals adorned the outside wall of Jeweled Hall of 10,000 Buddhas.

Other interesting features to note have been described in details in my article here.

As soon as I step off the train, I know this is going to be another out-there experience because the people trying to sell me things here, is more prominent than ever. Everything from little miniature Taj's, to camera and films, to bottled water, is being thrust in my face, and in every other unsuspecting tourists face. I tighten my grip on the pile of cash and passport in my pocket.

A short bus ride to the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, and an impressive Marble Emporium filled in most of my day before I was to catch the overnight train to the Holy City of Varanasi and the Ganges.

The Taj is a sight to behold and I just stand and marvel at its beauty and boldness before deciding to approach it for a closer look. It took 200 years to build and is a symbol of love from an Indian King to his wife, doubling also as her tomb. I am warned of a scam before venturing into the grounds of the Taj and that is taking a photo of you and acting as if it is a friendly gesture, and then charging you off the wall for the pic. Fortunately, I take my own pics. (It's interesting looking back at the pictures and the amount of random Indians that seem to invade the background of all of them.)

The Marble Emporium is crazy. All of the work is done on the ground outside; carving, smoothing, shining, and even sticking the little coloured glass pattern pieces to each item. It looks like pain-staking work and even though I can't afford to buy a piece, I take a photo and give the dude a tip for his picture. Just some amazing work.

After a Kingfisher and a vegetarian curry, I head back to the Agra train station and am faced with a 3 hour, unexpected wait for the train to Varanasi. The wait is long and cold and my stomach is not feeling at all good but I don't want to use the scummy train station toilets. I sit on the concrete platform, leaning against my pack and watch the many interesting happenings and goings on that the station provides.

Finally I board the second class, sleeper carriage, and with my feet sticking off the end of my bunk, get a good nights sleep in (as well as can be expected, what with food and beverage sellers boarding at every stop) before waking to yet another amazing, Indian city.

To be continued…

Curious about what Triund looks like, I gathered all articles and pictures in the internet to find out what it is. I used Google, Yahoo, Flickr, Answers, among others and I arrived at the materials listed below.

I provide impressions on the picture or article and place the links associated with it.

1. Triund is a scenic place the peak of which is like a Bermuda grass garden with stones all over it. I'm wondering, however, why the photographer has to include the tents in the picture if the intent is to show it as a scenic place.
2. Lakes are famous tourist destinations in Dharamsala where Triond is found. The author of this article , however, says that the highlight is definitely the Triond. It is a three hour walk uphill where one will see the snowy peaks. Probably tired of climbing or found the place nice to stay a while, many travelers stay there for several days in a forest rest house near one side of the hill. The author said the more adventurous travelers pitch their camps in a cave or a tent. That's the reason why there are tents in the picture above. The description of Triond is found midway of the article.
3. I typed “Triund” in Flickr and saw three pictures taken along the way to Triund showed a herd of goats with three tourists at foreground, a shepherd with the goats and two people posing for the camera.

Well, it's quite difficult getting information about Triund, the place in the Himalayas. I wish those who have been there can contribute more information about the site where we get our contents published.

How about Triond sponsoring a free trip for two lucky writers for a free trip to Triund in the Himalayas to make a comprehensive description?

I start by going to Sonu café in Pahraganj again this morning after first having my all over, dettol wipe, body wash.

I proceed to the railway station and find the mass of yellow and black taxis all jammed in waiting for fares, and I make one guy very happy by hiring him and his taxi, and touring for the day.

I have decided that I will venture to the Indian Parliament buildings, India Gate, and then to the New Zealand High Commission.

The parliament buildings are really impressive to look at and also very impressively guarded with sentries posted at all gates and on all corners, high and low. It is more like prison security than a parliament building. Some serious looking men with some serious looking machine guns.

India Gate is interesting, not the structure as such because that kind of looks like a mini Arc de Triomphe but dirtier, but the fact that a snake charmer is getting a lot of attention. So I go over there and see what all the fuss is about. He has three snakes, all in baskets, and he's playing his little recorder, tapping this snake on the head, and it appears to be moving to the music. At the time I feel like the snake is really just pissed off at the fact he keeps tapping it on the head so I pay him his 5 rupees and move on.

The New Zealand High Commission is heavily guarded also, so I have a yarn to the guys guarding it, take a few pics (as it's probably the nicest place in India I've seen so far), and be on my way. I stop at some emporiums on the way home and buy these blanket type things called Naga Shoals which are hand-woven and take 6 months to complete. I pay 925 rupees which is about $31.

For the third night in a row at Sam's Rooftop Restaurant, I eat eggs and chips because my food poisoning paranoia has not decreased and so I'm sticking with the safe option.

After yet another breakfast at Sonu Café, I hail an auto-rickshaw, which doesn't take much hailing, and head to the famous Red Fort which is a palace that used to house the Indian Emperor. I had a guide take me round and managed to learn some interesting stuff, when I could understand him.

My trip back in the auto-rickshaw is carnage because there is so much traffic and it is not helped by drivers all yelling at each other in what seems like very fast Hindi. Great times!

After dinner I reflect on my few days in Delhi. It has been an enjoyable place once I accepted and understood the Indian way of life and living. I have stopped being hassled as much in the street to buy things as it seems like everyone knows me, but really I think that I have just got used to it. My most interesting money making advance was a little girl doing back flips and other contortionist stuff. Overall I think will miss Pharaganj and Delhi but am looking forward to the rest of my trip.

Tomorrow morning I head to Agra and the Taj Mahal and then on to Varanasi and the mighty Ganges. I am travelling by train so I think that is going to be an experience from the observations I have made at the train station! Stay tuned.

To be continued…

I decided to head to this little place on Main Bazaar for breakfast called Sonu, where I eat a tasty, onion masala dosa and again only used my hands as a result of severe paranoia over the rag, utensil incident.

I decide to head down to the train station just because I get a very real feeling of India and the Indian way of life there just observing all the happenings. Observations I make are the fact that it is probably the dirtiest place I have seen I my life. Rats and mice scurrying around; rubbish strewn everywhere (especially beetle nut packets); and all of these orange spit stains, which I eventually work out to be the leftovers of the beetle nut.

Some men on the opposite platform from me are taking a wizz onto the tracks below and exposing themselves to everyone including a group of kids who are crouched down there eating lunch.

The porters I find extremely amusing because they are jumping, literally, at every train that pulls in, to carry people's bags. They are all trying to be the first onto the train so that they can be of service to the best clients, and so boarding the train before it stops is a prerequisite. I identify these porters by the coats they are wearing which are a bright red. The fact that even with the competition for the service amongst them, they seem to be good friends and watch out for each other.

I wander the bazaar on the way back to my hotel taking note of the colour that surrounds me and how good the fruit looks that piles the sidewalks; delicious red apples, bright yellow bananas, and juicy, round oranges. Of course, they are washed in the local water and doused regularly to make them appealing for the many potential shoppers, so I'm not buying any.

Being a teacher, I organize a tour of St Columba's School where I have arranged to meet the Christian Brothers and take a tour. I take an auto-rickshaw there and again my adrenaline is pumping as we race by the many thousands of people all going somewhere and having something to do. The school is a middle class, Catholic school, but amongst the shambolic look of Old Delhi, it looks extremely well off. I learn from one of the Brothers that the school is used as a shelter for lepers during the night where they receive a meal and a safe place to sleep. I get to meet a few of them but unfortunately their English is very limited (plus they are extremely shy and reluctant to talk). I am not at all bothered by their deformities and am happy to see that something is being done to help.

I make my way to Sam's Rooftop Restaurant for dinner again and am wondering when, or if, my belt of food poisoning is going to kick in.

I have been subtly asked today, many times, and by a number of people, if I would like to buy some hashish. These people seem to slink out of the shadows at opportune times and ask in a whisper, “you like to smoke?” When I say no, they don't bother me as other traders do because I think they are a little worried about the big, beige dressed policemen who wield big sticks, arresting them.

Apart from a cold which I have contracted from the pollution in the last 24 hours, I have had a great day and am looking to forward to tomorrow and more of what India has to offer.

To be continued…

Didn't get much sleep last night; only four hours. Woke really early and just lay there for about an hour. Got up about 6.30am and not wanting to use the bucket to shower with or stand in toilet water while doing it, I used my trusty supply of dettol wipes to clean my face, arms and legs.

Decided to go for a walk early and explore a little bit. I wander down to the train station through the chaos and constant hounding by different people. My confidence is growing each step that I take.

Breakfast is at a little place up the road from my hotel on Main Bazaar. While I'm sitting waiting for my honey pancakes to arrive, I am alerted to the fact that the owner of the place is using one single rag for every chore that needs a rag. He's wiping the tables, the floor, his hands, and the eating utensils all with this one manky rag. I try not to think about it as I munch my honey pancakes using only my hands which I decide will be cleaner than the utensils he gave me.

After breakfast I make my way on foot from Paharganj in Old Delhi to the famous Underground Markets near the centre of New Delhi. I am amazed as I scan all of the items available for purchase; everything you can think of from pirated DVDs, to "Gucci" belts and wallets, to clothing, and jewelry. As I walk around this area, I notice how much worse the pollution is and how many more beggars and homeless people there are, especially children. The pollution has made my snot go black and the back of my throat have a constant burning sensation; kind of like when you have an accidental, acidy spew burp!

I get lost trying to get back to Paharganj from the markets but eventually make it back by finding the train station again. It's kind of my reference point for the whole city.

Decide to have a bit of down time once I get back and I spend it sitting on a one man balcony at the hotel, looking down through spider webs of electrical lines that look disturbingly dangerous, into the alleyway where the hotel is situated. The constant noise and pollution is both physically and mentally draining.

I go and buy a snap camera for 500 rupees from this little Kodak place on Main Bazaar as I have already used up the films on my other disposables; 3 in fact. I am skeptical about whether I'm getting a good deal from these dodgy looking fellows but they prove to me by taking my photo and showing me other pics, that they are legit.

Dinner is at Sam's Rooftop Restaurant on Main Bazaar and I spend a good deal of time just looking down and marveling at the ant like people all scurrying about the street. I order the thing on the menu which I feel will be the least likely to give me the dreaded "Delhi belly"; steamed vegetables and rice.

I'm back on the balcony again writing my journal and I realize that the initial shock of the Indian way of life is starting to wear off, my confidence is growing, and I am feeling much more positive about my decision to come here. I wonder whether the anxiety will return as I hit Kolkata in a few weeks time.

To be continued…

My hotel room is a little white box with one double bed, and a window that looks out into the hallway. The security for the room is a huge padlock and key and I have to duck to get through the door. The bathroom is a mangy looking toilet, a small hand basin, and a bucket and cup for washing. However, I feel extremely lucky as my toilet is a European toilet which means no squatting. Stoked!

On reflection of Delhi thus far, I have discerned poverty, filth, rubbish, population density, and the fact that people are living with this. I think to myself "why would you want to live at all?"

The question I keep coming back to is "how am I ever going to explain what I have seen today to my family?" Just phenomenal.

I am drained. It is 2.45am and I am going to lay down in my clothes under one brown, grimy looking blanket and try to sleep. I am better off than some. I don't know whether I'm looking forward to tomorrow or not.

I have tried to explain as accurately as possible the scenes, experiences and feelings I have received in just one day in India but it is all the seemingly small things that I have missed out that make this an extraordinary country. You have to see it to believe it. This is the real India.

To be continued…

The first impressions of this place come from the sights and smells that elongate the senses. The streets are bustling. No, in fact carnage! The smell, whilst driving along in my 1950's English style taxi - which I thought would at any moment, fall apart - was phenomenal. A kind of a mix between the body odour of 12 million people, and unhygienic meats.

Driving to the hotel was hilariously funny and felt incredibly dangerous. Imagine a two lane highway where literally thousands of vehicles are jostling for position and a taxi driver driving as fast as he could, all the while beeping and breaking at regular, random intervals. He said he knew where he was going. I was sceptical. Of course, I am expecting to be ripped off so I'm just taking in as much as I can, while I can.

Driving by I'm seeing thousands of cars, people, and shops - mostly street eateries displaying all manner of foods including chickens hanging from hooks - and the driver does a u-turn. He then manoeuvres his way into a crowded back street in an area known as Paharganj. I'm now feeling like I'm in the closest place to hell because I am obviously not at my hotel and the car can hardly move because of the sheer density of people, animals, and bicycles around it. There are markets, thousands of them, jammed into this one street, beggars pleading for money at my open window, men trying to sell me all matter of things - mostly cigarettes - and some of the worst looking food that I have ever seen. The homeless are lying under their blankets. Cows and dogs are roaming the streets and nobody takes a sideways glance at them; except me. To top this all off, cars, rickshaws - both auto and man powered - trucks, tractors, bikes, and motorbikes are trying to go every which way on one, single lane road! Crazy!

The smell is worse here. It is the previous mixture, only stronger now. A smell of urine taints it even more.

My taxi driver finally makes it to my hotel after numerous stops and offers from his mates about places to stay, and things to buy. I am flustered and on the verge of angry with him. I go to pay him and he asks for a tip. I stupidly hand over a couple of hundred rupees as a tip. Little did I know that even though it only equated to about 6 bucks, this could literally feed his whole family for about a week. Hence he makes a very quick getaway in case I realised how much of an idiot I was.

My final realisation after leaving my taxi behind, is that my hotel is in the area of Paharganj anyway and so after what seemed like hours of needless driving, I was already where I needed to be.

To be continued…