Come for a visit, stay for the experience.

Experience the grandeur of vast mountain ranges and simplicity of endless waterfalls. Be intrigued with wild and marine life that can be viewed without binoculars. If after coming, all you want is to see it, stay a few days. But I am sure you will agree after being here, it's more than scenery. If you want to truly derive an experience that will alter your life -you need to stay.

Returning to My Home

After thirty years of being away from this remote wilderness it would seem that I was traveling to a strange place, one I had read about in books or watched on television travel shows. The only communication I had during those years with friends from my past experiences in Alaska were yearly updates on annual Christmas cards. Those certainly didn't communicate anything about a void that was missing in my life.

I grew up not really knowing any place as “home”. We moved a lot and I cherished every new place and the broadening horizons provided. But I could never lay claim to one location as a home. Home then simply was where my family was. The closest I came to having a home was a place that is rare and unique. I often times wondered if it was the atmosphere and the people or the captivating wildlife and scenery that made it a treasured place in my heart.

It was a place where friends abound, acceptance is the norm and beauty is a simple word. So simple that by expressing it verbally one cannot convey the warmth of community and majesty that exists.

I moved from my birthplace in Wyoming to Alaska when I was seven. I wasn't anxious to leave behind existing friends, cousins and grandparents I loved dearly. But somewhere inside I yearned for new things and the new experiences that were waiting. I had never flown on an airplane. But in 1969, most people hadn't. This adventure was only the beginning of a life that would change my perceptions forever. As I boarded the wide body plane I left behind a small pickup truck of family belongings that would be shipped at a later date. We left much behind both in a material and emotional sense.

At the airport my Aunt purchased Pez candy dispensers before we entered the plane and embarked on a 3000 mile journey far to the North. The flight did not seem long as it was broken up with a three hour stop over in Seattle. As a child we were in no hurry to get anywhere and loved anything that brought about another opportunity for fun. Three hours to stretch, run and explore an airport that had just finished construction of an underground subway train system. Another new adventure.

After our stop over in Seattle we boarded a flight to an unknown and virtually uncharted territory that had only recently gained statehood. Alaska. It was 1969. The oil boom hadn't really hit hard yet so life was still unsettled and to some uncivilized. Such conveniences as running water and indoor plumbing were not available to all residents yet. Wilderness buffs thrived on living in the “bush”, miles from any hint of civilization and often only accessible by plane, atv or snow machine.

We arrived late in the evening in September. The weather was a bit cooler than where we had left, but not uncomfortable. We were greeted by an eight foot encased brown bearing staring down at us with claws that put an NBA star's fingers to shame and much sharper and deadlier. The airport was small with only one airline serving the rural town of Kenai. The twenty or so passengers who accompanied our flight quickly grabbed their bags and went on their way. My father had moved to Kenai earlier in the summer. He was not there to meet us as he had some problems preparing the gas lines in the mobile home that would be our new house. This would be quite a change from the five bedroom home in a newly developed subdivision that we left behind. Here we sat, a bit apprehensive and certainly uncomfortable with a place so foreign to our previous lifestyle.

The flight this time was a bit different. Things were different than in 1969 and had changed some even since my Flight Attendant days in the 1980's. New technology gave digital flight numbers at the boarding gate. Also quite different from the time I spent as a Flight Attendant, the check in screens for standbys was conveniently displayed overhead with appropriate seat assignments. No waiting to hear your name called and rushing on the plane at the last minute.

This time though, it seemed to be the same diverse crowd that usually traveled to this still remote area; wilderness buffs, a few executives, kids, and those just seeking great fishing holes and an escape from the mundane routine of life. People waiting for the thrill of hours battling and reeling in fish that were often times larger than themselves and hunting game that any sports enthusiast would envy. Trophy animals are the norm and not the exception. Alaska is all about a life that is bigger than yourself. Even if you don't relish the thought of bagging these mighty animals you will want to observe them from your car along with endangered species and creatures that are rare and sometimes inhibited. Animals you probably won't see anywhere else. They are native to the North Country. The animals that inhabit this vast expanse are at home and not particularly bothered by the people who come to watch them. They can be quite shy. Don't disrupt their native habitats; they may not have the social graces to make you feel welcome!

This time my flight to Alaska was four hours long with no stop overs. Even with the modern advances in technology; television shows, computers and movies as opposed to foreign radio stations speaking a language most on the plane didn't understand, the time seemed to drag. There were no playing cards distributed and even the on board popular magazines seem to have gone by the wayside. When we were young we used to play cards (provided by the airline) and impose on the Flight Attendants to help distribute drinks and clean up trash, all just to make the time pass. Imagine paying for the privilege of picking up trash! But a seed was planted that would flourish into a full blown career as a Flight Attendant later in my life. Was it the job or the Alaska experience that fostered such a dream?

I was to returning to the dreamland of my youth; looking for an experience that few ever achieve. It's a world of its own. If you could put a price on memories, I'd be a millionaire. Seeking to return to my childhood I embarked on a journey back to events so profound it ingrained into my being moments that cannot be diminished with time. Is a matter of fact they expand with the passage of time. I am not sure the real experience can even touch what my mind has envisioned took place in my past.

I was coming home. Upon our arrival the first night we were surrounded with stores, hotels and airports that certainly did not resemble the 1969 experience. But there was an essence that was profoundly familiar. Something had not changed. I could feel it.

As a child I remembered sighting moose on a regular basis. Squirrels in the back yard would have been family pets had my pet poodle not chased them incessantly every morning on her trip outside. They would sit up in the trees and chirp down at her while mocking her efforts to climb the tree and capture them.

Hunting licenses were not for single animals but rather you purchased one license for moose, bear, dall sheep and unlimited fish. Fishing on the Kenai river was simple; you just went when you wanted and to your favorite hole. None of the land was privately owned and anyone looking for a morning of excitement was welcome, if you could endure the giant mosquitoes that vied for your hole.

Weekend trips around the peninsula provided more experiences in a small radius than most have in a whole state. The Kenai River was the Salmon capital of the area and Russian culture was present at every turn. Small Russian Orthodox churches were plentiful. Deciphering road signs that were engraved with the native language were fun to try and transcribe. Crabbing on the “Spit” down in Homer, only an hour's drive away, was only half the fun. The other half was riding home with live crabs stored in a large tub of water in the back of our station wagon.

Short cruises out of Seward and Whittier into bays that are filled with marine life and glaciers are a rich adventure. Monumental glaciers, calving into the bay are quite a site. It is Sea World in the wild with marine life and feathery friends that only inhabit these shores.

After spending the night in Anchorage we arose early and inadvertently took a tour of downtown Anchorage. We were seeking a homestyle breakfast complete with native Alaskan sourdough. None of the places we found were touting this specialty so we finally conceded and went to a restaurant with an Alaskan motif - Gwendies. After surveying the menu for sourdough pancakes and only finding one item unique to the state, reindeer sausage, we waited for the waitress to come and place our order. I inquired if they had sourdough, instead of regular pancakes and sure enough they did! Maybe it's just a “given” in this part of the world. Anywhere else would specify this gold panner's delight. Here it seems to be just understood that you can have it.

After winding our way out of the simple and small metropolis we finally were on our way to the Kenai Peninsula. Our tour was really just beginning. About 15 miles out of Anchorage on the opposite side of the scenic Turnigan Arm I spotted a few, what appeared to be patches of snow on the cliff lined highway. Upon closer examination we discovered they were lounging Dall Sheep. They were hard to see from that distance so we pulled out the binoculars and studied the still life. Whoa! Wait a minute, one moved. We watched it for a few more minutes and then moved down the road a few hundred more feet; yes - more of them. This time they were moving and climbing. They are graceful and strong and it is an awesome experience to watch them scale sheer cliffs with ease, totally oblivious to their audience. My excitement was on the rise as I watched more and more of these “patches of snow” come to life. There is something exhilarating about observing wildlife in their native habitat.

We continued down the road being ever alert for more distractions. After just about passing the turn off to a wildlife refuge for injured, abandoned or orphaned animals we made a squealing turn into the entrance, paid our fee and continued the photo/video journal of our animal adventures. Although very easy to spot, these animals mostly wanted to sleep. We saw moose, caribou, Siberian wild boar, porcupine, bald eagle, black and brown bear clubs, muskox, elk, Sitka black tailed deer, a coyote and caged in a dog kennel was small red fox. He had buried himself so deep he was difficult to see except for two small eyes peering through the straw. It was apparent he was not accustom to the human touch and didn't want to experience it.

It was nice to observe them but it didn't have the flair of witnessing them in their natural state. I was glad there is a place for them and didn't regret paying money to support their cause, but they were so docile and passive it would be hard to categorize them as “wild”. Later, as we went to the marine life museum in Seward and I discovered from my readings that studying injured or abandoned animals has a tremendous benefit on understanding their development and migratory patterns. That furthers the cause of saving an endangered species along with helping preserve their homes and their existence.

Across the highway we traveled down another side road to our daily destination. Portage glacier. As with all good things, there must be some disappointment. The glacier itself had receded much from what my childhood memories had recorded and information boards confirmed my memories. It had retreated back. It used to stretch clear down to Portage Lake. A lake choked with icebergs. They were small icebergs, but icebergs none the less and lots of them. Not to let a closed visitor center or a seasonal cruise that had not yet started, deter us from enjoying our stop we did see another ice field that in my mind dwarfed Portage. Maybe it was just because I didn't get to ride the boat up next to Portage glacier, but this ice field was far more magnificent. It draped the canyon walls and was a beautiful site. Pristine lakes, rivers and mountains surrounded us at every turn. Even our most disappointing site was a pleasure to behold.

I had returned to Alaska once- years ago- for a brief stint. Having been a Flight Attendant for several years I retired before my thirtieth birthday and wanted to use my airline travel benefits before they expired. I needed to go home. But with three small children who I needed to leave with family, and a short supply of money, I didn't feel I could be gone long so I looked up an old friend, called her and found I was still very welcome, even after 18 years. Then I caught a flight to Kenai.

On that particular trip I flew into Anchorage on a large jet designed to fly high, too high to see much of anything. Thus, I was anxious for the flight into Kenai. It was a smaller plane and flew much closer to the ground, but I was concerned that because of the time of day I would not be able to see much. I guess I didn't remember as much about Alaska as I would have liked. On June 21, 1992 the sun really doesn't set and although it was 10:00 pm, the view was perfect. What a treasure.

The feeling of returning home on my present trip becomes stronger and stronger. I feel like a salmon on their return journey home. Although not a native born Alaskan, I know my heart and the old adage that “home is where the heart is” proved true. My heart is here. Now that I am home, I don't want to go “Outside” again. The calm, peaceful feelings that the splendor of Alaska brings tugged at my heart strings. The pull is strong. Stay home. What is on the Outside? How could anything compare. Scenery may compare, but nothing touches the emotional state I am experiencing; content, peaceful, and calm.

This vast cold expanse that is large enough to encompass even the strongest and most powerful sentiments could also reach deep and touch you with its simplicity and serenity. Alaska is real, it's not a zoo or a dream. It is real life and one needs to experience it first hand to fully appreciate it. This trip and my last, I was a visitor. Before then we didn't visit Alaska, we lived it and had an experience no tourist can comprehend.

After leaving Portage we continued down a simple back road highway to Seward. Upon our arrival we found it to be a typical harbor town with a jam packed small boat harbor dwarfed by a commercial cruise liner, a princess of a ship. Along side it was an old, well used barge that shipped coal from the mines of Denali on the interior via railway and then transferred it on to a mile long conveyor belt to board the ship. This particular ship's destination we found out was Hong Kong. Alaska is truly a diverse place, serving a multitude of occupations, peoples and needs.

We found a small, clean motel in Seward. The staff was friendly and eager to point out all the places to eat and sites we could see. Alaskan's love to talk about Alaska and share the best of their uncharted world to Outsiders. One point of interest was a waterfall. It was hard to imagine there were more waterfalls after the hundreds we counted on our way from Anchorage. But there were, one's that emptied right into Resurrection Bay. One in particular that was high upon a mountain, only to be seen with binoculars. Alaska is a love affair of a lifetime that never ends, even if you leave.

The hotel staff also shared all the favorite eating spots and so we strolled down the wooden boardwalk and found a cozy little café. After eating tender fresh caught Halibut and Caribou burgers with a very mild wild flavor we retired for the night, anxious to take our long awaited harbor cruise the following day.

We arose early the next day so we could visit the Sea Life Museum in Seward before our real day began. It turned out to be one of the highlights of our day. Once again, witnessing marine life up close and personal can be captivating. You experience their precious faces and massive bodies in a way you just can't have in the wild, being a short time tourist. The museum was very hands on and full of educational opportunities for young and old alike. They had a petting zoo for those who wanted to touch sea anemones and star fish. You could go outside and watch Stellar Sea Lions and Harbor Seals when they surfaced or go downstairs and observe them through their glass enclosed tanks. They were really quite friendly and loved to show off for their guests.

Sea Otters are playful and fun. Lounging on their backs with babies or food on their bellies is an entertaining site. This was a miniature SeaWorld focused more on research than entertainment, but fun none the less.

Ah- we were now ready for the highlight of our visit. The harbor cruise aboard the Star of the Northwest; owned and operated by Major Marine Tours and operated by a friendly and most accommodating and knowledgeable staff.

Boarding began at 12:15 pm from the end of Pier E. The staff photographed us as we boarded the small vessel, well prepared with cameras, rain gear, coats, sea sickness medication and literature galore. What we weren't prepared for was the absolutely clear, beautiful skies, the calm waters of Resurrection Bay and the elegance of the mountain and coves that encompass the Kenai Fjords National Park.

We had come hungry being informed that there would be an all you can eat salmon and prime rib buffet. Thus our original thoughts were focused more on food than listening to the safety presentation. Being a bit apprehensive of the water I did give it some of my attention, just in case!

We exited the harbor and ventured into the fjord. A fjord I discovered is a passage that is carved by glaciers over thousands of years. These passages can then be filled with sea water which allows the marine life to migrate in, ever closer to shores. The snow capped mountains encased the bay and were magnificent as they reached upward inviting the eye to scan for wildlife on its banks and cliffs. Many bald eagles and their nests were spotted, even by the Junior Rangers aboard. One passenger was able to detect a black bear sunning on the side of the hill. Everyone raced to that side of the boat to watch it in hopes it would arise and forage for food. No luck with that one!

A short while later the Captain announced that he had spotted a sea otter just off the starboard side. By the time everyone arrived, it was gone. Patiently we waited to see if he would resurface and sure enough with a little bit of encouragement, he did. He entertained us all while swimming on his back for a few moments before returning to his responsibility of gathering food.

The captain also spotted a Stellar Sea Lion but few witnessed this event and we were reassured by the Tour Guide that we would see plenty up ahead thus we were content to let this one pass. Someone briefly noted the very swift passing of Dall porpoises. Far too quick for many to see.

It wasn't too long before our goal of viewing stellar sea lions was realized. Not one, not two, but too many too count!

It was getting time to serve lunch so tables were called numerically to ensure an orderly effort to distribute the food. True to their word, the food was more than one would expect on a small harbor cruise. Not being a fish lover, I gingerly tasted the first bite. It did not take more than that to convert me. The delicately spiced salmon melted at each bite. After that I might be willing to contend with the bears for their tasty meals. My love of prime rib was overshadowed that day by a fish! Fresh baked sourdough bread and a green salad with the chef's special recipe for dressing were an added delight to the meal. I ravenously devoured far more helpings than is typical for one who usually doesn't get their money's worth on “all you can eat” deals.

The Captain kept us in calm waters for the meal to minimize the potential for risk - in more ways than one. But now it was time to venture into the Gulf of Alaska. The waters were a bit rough, but a very capable crew kept us apprised of tips and tricks to enjoy our trip with minimal to no seasickness. We rounded the last stretch of mountains in Resurrection Bay while learning about and watching a variety of bird species from the Park Ranger.

We were all anxious to enter the deep waters of the Gulf in hopes of spotting a whale. Far in the distance someone announced they had seen a whale spray. Unsure if this was really the case, we moved closer and the Captain indicated he was communicating with a boat that was closer to the spotting and sure enough - it was confirmed. We were on our way to see a humpback whale. Spouting is a good sign, we found out, because it means they are close to the surface and coming up for air. Once you witness the popular splash of the tail, they are diving for food and chances are, they won't surface again for quite some time. Since we didn't see the tail splash we waited. The boat was turned off and we sat quietly in the water. Soon the Tour Guide announced that it had surfaced again at the 1 o'clock position. It provided the guests with ample photo opportunities before it decided to retreat for food.

By now most were ready to start our journey back to the dock. Before leaving the Gulf we enjoyed viewing the Harding Ice Field and Bear Glacier. We didn't take the boat in close at the Captain's request. Even from a distance it proved a sight worth slowing down to see.

After getting a valuable education on glaciers, their properties and the remnants left behind we rounded the corner and re-entered Resurrection Bay. Skimming close to the shore we were easily able to spot a few mountain goats, up close and personal. Another great photo opportunity!

The galley announced the call for dessert. This time those of us at the last tables were called first. What a treat. Being back in calm waters we could enjoy a variety of sweet treats without a thought of the consequences that might ensue.

A short time later we were once again docked in Seward and glad to have our feet on solid ground. A part of me was sad it was over. It left behind a taste for more and a desire to return. I wonder if you ever really get filled up with Alaska?

While on board the ship we were informed there was an active glacier nearby that might be calving. A few miles up the road from Seward was Exit glacier. We decided to drive by and check it out. The drive was nice and the glacier well worth viewing but we were tired and ready to get to our final destination of the day- Kenai.

To really enjoy your Alaskan experience - don't take the crash course that we did! Take time to smell the aromatic bouquet of wildflowers. The rewards of your trip will pay you dividends you can't soon forget.

That will be a return trip for another day later in the summertime. We are worn thin from our short adventure and ready to return to the lower 48. We quickly hopped down to the “Spit” in Homer before turning the SUV north to Anchorage. We had hoped to sample in large quantities some Alaskan King Crab, but they weren't serving it soon enough for my stomach's time table so we had the Mother's Day buffet complete with delicately designed desserts, almost too pretty to eat.

We stopped on the way off the “Spit” and purchased crab to be shipped home so others could enjoy it with us. This would provide a small taste of Alaska for those who couldn't come along.

While visiting a church in Kenai, the speakers shared two sentiments that sum up well all my Alaska experiences.

One - you don't come to Alaska because you like the taste of fish - you come to experience fishing! Come to Alaska to experience what you might not ever experience anywhere else.

And two - probably one of my most profound thoughts throughout this whole experience - the words to the hymn may change, but the theme remains the same. That's Alaska.