When the great English explorer and navigator, James Cook sailed into the beauty of a tranquil bay at the northern tip of New Zealand's South Island in 1770, his description of the place suggested he'd reached Paradise. Shortly after dropping anchor in the calm, clear water of the small bay, his ship was surrounded by curious dolphins and penguins. His crew feasted on a staggering variety of fish that abounded there. Cook revisited this magic retreat five times until his last visit in 1777. Astonishing as it may seem, Ship Cove is the same today. It is part of a network of drowned valleys containing 4000km of sounds, islands and peninsulas.

The Marlborough Sounds continue to weave magic on the modern day visitor, with the sheer beauty of its steep, wooded hills and small quiet bays. It's a sparsely populated area with many of the small settlements and isolated houses only accessible by boat. This truly is an unspoiled destination waiting to be discovered by the overseas tourist.

It's a clear, sunny day with the odd cloud standing out with digital clarity against the deep blue only seen in skies this far south. I amble along the main street of Picton, the main port in the area. The salty tang in the air mingles with the freshness of the air itself. It makes me feel alive and content. This little town has a population of four thousand, and lies at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound. It was created by European sealers in the 1840's, and is the terminus for the South Island's main railway and road systems. It is also the port for the inter island ferry. (It's a three hour voyage across Cook Strait to the North Island and the capital, Wellington). I watch the Kaitaki, the largest of the three ships currently on the inter island service, as its white bulk glides up to the terminal. I don't stop to see the 600 cars and 1600 passengers disembark. I prefer to remain in the moment and to savour the special atmosphere this part of New Zealand offers. Most of the traffic from the ship will head south, without lingering, to explore the world famous scenic attractions the South Island has to offer. I can't understand why the Marlborough Sounds, are not part of this tourist circuit. It might be something to do with New Zealanders being spoilt with the number of magic places they can visit.

I hop into a car and drive the short distance around to Kenepuru Sound. The road along the finger of land separating it from Queen Charlotte Sound, offers a series of lookouts. I look across the sparkling water to the densely wooded peninsula that separates me from Pelorus Sound, the third waterway in the Marlborough Sounds.

Fur seals are common in this network of bays, and it's also possible to see magnificent orca whales. Here in these beautiful stretches of water, pods of dusky, bottlenose and occasionally, the rare Hectors dolphins accompany the boats that use the sounds for recreation. Groupings can consist of as many as five hundred. To be in the company of these friendly mammals is to experience one of the true delights of being a human lucky enough to visit this truly amazing world.

Pelorus Jack was a dolphin who made this area his home. In 1904, he became the first "fish" in the world to be protected by law. This remarkable dolphin became famous as a "guide" in French Pass, an unpredictable stretch of water at the approaches to the Marlborough Sounds. He escorted ships through these treacherous waters from 1888 until he disappeared in April 1912. He was fond of steamers, and crews would wait for him to appear before sailing through the pass. His loss caused an outpouring of grief throughout New Zealand. I can remember as a kid, having a picture book with drawings of this little dolphin enjoying the attention swimmers gave him. I didn't believe the story was true. How could a "fish" do all those amazing things?

Only four hundred people live in Havelock, the other settlement in the Sounds. It's known as the Greenshell Mussel Capital of the world, but a better claim to fame is surely that Lord Rutherford, the man who helped split the atom, opening up the nuclear age, and Dr. William Pickering, the developer of the first American satellite, both went to school in this tiny fishing settlement. Wandering around its peaceful streets is like being on a film set. All that's needed is for the film crew to arrive and create some action.

It's not only the waterways that make this place so special. The award winning Queen Charlotte Track winds its way through 12km of beautiful native forest. It was created by European pioneers in the mid 1800's as a bridal track. It's named after the wife of King George the Third. I'm sure she would be humbled to know such a magical place carried her name. I walk slowly along the narrow walkway, peering into the thick bush either side of me. I pause to watch a sparkling drop of water make its way to the very tip of a superbly intricate frond of the native fern. I fail to understand why this exquisite symbol of nature's craftwork, is not on the New Zealand flag, as has been suggested. As I watch this delicate tiny marble of water plop onto a pebble below, I smile to myself. I'm a character in a kid's fantasy story. Nearby, I hear a light rustling and turn to see a cheeky little fantail flip open its beautiful tail in excitement. Further along the track, another bird found in the New Zealand forests, a friendly bush robin, hops close behind me. He pecks at my last footprint. I've disturbed a grub. I'm pleased to be able to help him find food so easily. He keeps me company and reminds me how special this place is.

I stop for dinner at the Portage Hotel. It has been located in a small bay in Kenepuru Sound for a hundred years. This is no swanky metropolitan style hotel, but it's comfortable and inviting and the roast lamb with mint sauce, was tasty and satisfying after a day in paradise. This hotel is accessible by road and motorists driving along it are rewarded with postcard perfect views around every corner. The view up the sound from the hotel is claimed to be one of the most memorable views from any hotel in the world. It has to be seen to be appreciated. The isolation, stillness and natural beauty, all work to touch my heart. I'm at peace with the world. I feel strangely free. There's also something wonderful about the quality of the light here. The colours are intense. Everything seems so vivid. Sounds seem to be amplified. The flutter of a bird in the near distance is as clear as the trickle of a baby stream a few feet away. The leaves in the trees, disturbed by a light breeze, have a crispness to their rustling. Everything seems to be, well, sort of unreal, sort of magical. I'm that character in a kid's fantasy story again, in a fantastic place, far, far away from my ordinary world.

D'Urville Island is at the very tip of the sounds. It is surrounded by a temperamental sea that has challenged sailors for centuries. It's still a challenge, and quite a contrast from the waters in the Sounds themselves, but it serves to keep boatmen on their guard. It rains a bit, and the summer temperatures hover around the mid 20's centigrade.. But this is what makes the place so verdant. This is why there are so many shades of green in the trees and so many beautiful shades of blue in the sea. .

It's a mystery why this magical place, only fifteen minutes by air from the capital of a country with such a highly developed tourist industry, should be so under commercialized. Man has been afraid to tamper here. Any effort to change the place would be doomed to failure as nature has created the perfect blend of forest, water and hills. To scar it with concrete hotels and apartment blocks would be a sacrilege. Nature has the final say here. There are no fast food outlets, billboards, traffic lights, or convoys of tour buses to taint this precious jewel in New Zealand's world famous scenic crown. The magic is still here as nature has designed it. The visitor can only marvel at the pristine beauty of a place that helps the soul soar and the mind rest and ponder.

Writer: Ceidrik Hewasrd

ceidrik@gmail.com

Life at North Shore Tahoe in summer is warm and wonderful. Leave your dressy duds at home; dinner out at one of the finer restaurants in the area will be the sole occasion to dress up a bit. Evenings can be cool in the mountains, so be sure to pack some sweats and light jackets.

To become a part of the area during your North Shore escape, rent a condo, home or one of the older, charming Tahoe cabins; cute but be prepared to wash your own dishes! Be sure you rent an abode with outdoor deck or garden; space for relaxation, reading or quietly enjoying the climate and beauty of the mountains and lake; all of which are my favorite Tahoe summer activities.

Tahoe's North Shore has been our home away from home since the "60"s. The gaudy glitz of the casinos at South Shore is not the focal point here. That is not to say that there is no night-life at North Shore. There are, in fact, several small casinos in which to party, but they are found only at “Stateline,” in Crystal Bay.

About one mile North of Crystal Bay is King's Beach. In recent years, this area has become quite desirable; at least on the lake side of the highway. The beach itself is dirty and not great for sunbathing; choose your lodging with lakefront or pool by which to relax and lounge.

If you would like to participate in water activities, King's Beach is where you can find wave-runner rentals, take water-skiing lessons or parasail. As you are floating high above the lake, tethered to the boat by a single line, look down; I'll be the one on the deck at Jason's, with a margarita in hand, watching you sail! There is a boat launch at King's beach, and a place to park your car and trailer while you enjoy cruising the gorgeous lake.

Just a note: If you do plan to water ski on Lake Tahoe, you need to do some major squats and build up those quads before you go! Skiing on Tahoe is more like ocean, rather than lake skiing, and I'm not exaggerating! Even in summer, bring your summer-suit (a short wetsuit) for the summer season. The water is quite COLD, even in summer.

Farther north, just a few minutes drive, is Tahoe City. Tahoe City is Family-friendly, as it is easy to walk to restaurants, from fine dining to fast food, and there is a movie theatre for a family night out. I find Tahoe City a bit more trafficked and crowded than other enclaves to the south such as King's Beach, Tahoe Vista and Carnelian Bay. However, if you like a more upbeat, young crowd, Tahoe City may be attractive to you.

There are miles and miles of hiking trails at the north end of the lake, fishing both in the lake and on the river, and the best activity of all; lounging or walking in the warm Tahoe sun, breathing in the fresh mountain air, and taking in the awe-inspiring views of one of the world's most beautiful lakes.