Galway City is the capital of the western county that bears the same name. Nestled at the eastern end of Galway Bay it is named after the Gaillimh River which flow through the city into the bay. The main street is appropriately named Shop Street. The pedestrian thoroughfare is a bustling centre of commerce and accommodation. Small hotels and restaurants vie with pub and shops for the visitor's attention. The food, drink, rooms and shopping all come at a reasonable price. If a cheaper night stay is what you are after there are dozens of Bed & Breakfasts just short walks from the town centre. Galway is a great base to explore the western Ireland.

A short boat ride away is the Aran Islands, famed for their woollen sweaters and to the west is rugged and beautiful Conamara. Here you can still find hucaers, púcáns and currachs; wooden framed sailing boat with leather hulls that are still manufactured the same way they were thousands of years ago, though the leather has been replaced with more durable modern materials. On summer Sundays dozens of these bád mór “big boats”, some up to 15 metres long, can be seen scudding across the bays in dozens of local races. Today the prizes are family pride and drinks but in the past it was much more cut throat as the fastest boats gained the best berths for unloading their rich prize of peat turfs transported from bog rich Conamara to the barren Aran Islands as well as Galway and Clare. Further west is the picturesque fishing port of Clifden and to the north Westport, one of the few planned cities in Ireland; the Georgian architecture is outstanding.

To the south of Galway in County Clare is the Burren, over 300 square kilometres of barren limestone landforms. It is roughly circular in shape with a panhandle extending west to the Atlantic. The series of rolling hills look almost like cracked pavement running willy-nilly into the distance. But appearances can be deceptive, as Englishman Edmund Ludlow reported to his Cromwellian masters in the 17th Century:

“It's a country where there is not enough water to drown a man, wood enough to hang one nor earth enough to bury him and yet their cattle are very fat; for the grasses growing in turfs of earth that lie between the rocks is very nourishing.”

The area is unique in that it supports Arctic, Mediterranean and Alpine plants side by side and beneath the surface are charted and uncharted caverns created by water filtering through the porous limestone. Despite it outward camouflage the Burren has been inhabited for over 5000 years. The landscape is dotted with megalithic reminders of its past. History and Pre-History have an unbroken timeline here. There are long barrow, portal tombs, ring forts and Celtic high crosses. The triple ringed fort at Cahercommaun and the Caherconnell Stone Fort are outstanding archaeological sites and Doolin near the coast is a Mecca for cavers and potholers. The Aillwee Caves near Ballyvaughan are also a must see. The caves were discovered by a local farmer who kept the location secret for forty years until the 1970s. Over a kilometre of winding passages lead into the mountains. Hidden in the depths is an underground river complete with waterfall and numerous caverns with dazzling stalactites and stalagmites. It was once the haunt of bears, a species that has long since vanished from Ireland.

On the coast to the west is one of Ireland's most spectacular destinations, the Cliffs of Moher. These magnificent shale and sandstone landmarks stretch for over eight kilometre from Hag Head in the south to just beyond O'Brian's Tower in the north, where the new visitors centre has been built. The centre itself is a marvellous piece of engineering resembling giant Hobbit holes excavated into the rock just inland below the tower. The cliffs rise from 120 metres at Hag Head to over 200 metres at O'Brian's Tower and the view is breathtaking. On a clear day you can see the Aran Islands in Galway Bay and even the hills and valleys of Conamara on the northern shore. With an excellent pair of Nikon binoculars you can keep tabs on the Sunday shenanigans as even the sailing boats with their distinctive red sails are visible.

Heading south you pass Shannon Airport, the west coast entrepot for those flying from the States and Canada and a viable alternative for anyone wanting to see rural Ireland before arriving in the major population centre of Dublin. Not far away is Limerick straddling the Shannon River. This sheltered harbour lies at the inland end of the Shannon Estuary; a body of water that is over five kilometres wide in places and stretches over fifty long before disgorging into the Atlantic. It is no wonder the Vikings, who established a trading port and settlement here in 812 AD, found it attractive. Its maritime linage goes back into the mists of pre-history.

The surrounding area was once teaming in oak forests, the primary material used in the construction of longboats. Maritime excavations is Sweden and Norway have uncovered several 9th Century Viking ships that were partially or completely made of Irish oak. Oak was also the principle construction material for the leather hulled boats mentioned above.

On the Atlantic coast west of Limerick is the town of Dingle sheltering in a triangular shaped bay on the southern side of the peninsular. The harbour is full of multicoloured fishing boat and the old lighthouse on Slayhead stands out like a red and white beacon set against a backdrop of rolling green hills criss-crossed with ancient drystone walls. A few kilometres away is Slea Head, the westernmost point in Europe. On the heights overlooking the Basket Islands a monument extols: “Some lands touch the heart, Dingle touches the soul.”

Across Dingle Bay to the south is the Ring of Kerry. This beautiful and well know peninsular has become over exposed in recent years and the extremely narrow roads and swarms of tourist coaches makes it a chore to do any decent sightseeing. You spend more time watching the road and traffic (yes traffic jams are common on this well trodden tourist route) than the picture postcard landscape.

Travelling along these narrow country roads can be not only be a source of frustration but also a good laugh as well, especially when the tour bus ahead is confronted by a caravan approaching from the opposite direction. The ensuing battle of skills as each driver manoeuvres past with centimetres to spare rivals anything on the Comedy Channel. These innocent picturesque country lanes also hold hidden danger. The green hedges in some cases are merely a thin velvet glove encasing the hidden mail hand of ancient stone walls, which are a feature of rural Ireland, much to the chagrin of unsuspecting tourists saddled with local hire cars who happen to stray off the tarmac.

Don't be disheartened though because just across Kenmare Bay is a peninsular that rivals even the famed Ring of Kerry. It's called The Beara Way. It winds around the Beara Peninsular and is just as spectacular. It is largely untravelled by the regular tourist hoards for two reasons. Its northern sister features prominently in virtually every travel brochure and tourist guide and the total absence of tour coaches and caravans. This is due to the strategic positioning of one farm house at the western end of the Way. The brightly painted building is perched right where the road takes a ninety degree bend and opposite is a large stone wall. The turn is so acute it is impossible for caravans to negotiate and busses haven't got a pagans chance in heaven without serious panel damage. Even the local delivery vans find it a challenge. You may see some that still bear the scars.

The road is as narrow as the Ring of Kerry and in some places narrower but the scenery is spectacular. The forest canopy covers the roadway in dark cathedral arches and tiny side track lead off to lonely stone circles overlooking secret hidden valleys that seem to have remained is stasis for millennia. At every turn you can imagine Green Elves appearing from this mystical landscape bows at the ready to dissuade any unsuspecting interloper. Suddenly the trees give way to coastal vistas of fertile hill and narrow coastal valleys where every centimetre of arable land is cultivated and colourful farmhouses sit on the high ground overlooking fields and sea. At the end of the peninsular is the narrow arrow shaped Dursey Island, its western promontory pointing the way to the nearest landfall, Newfoundland. The island is noted for its unique cable car. It looks like something cobbled together with a Meccano set and fishing line but for the three families who live on the island and those brave enough to take the trip there is a font of holy water on board just to reassure you.

The trip back along the southern side is just as rewarding. This side faces the Atlantic and is rugged and wind swept. In many places the trees permanently lean inland. The coastal hills are largely barren and reminiscent of the Scottish highlands. The salty winds retarding all but the hardiest plants and grasses. A little further east the landscape changes where the coastline is protected by Beara Island and the mountains that straddle the southern side of Bantry Bay. Just to the north crossing the Caha Mountains, which form the backbone of the Beara Peninsular, is the Healey Pass; a worthwhile sidetrack. Built at the height of the famine the 1840s it formed a major link between Kerry to the north and Cork. It is an incredible piece of engineering considering the rubble and stonework for its construction was hewn from the mountain with hand tools. The road uphill passes by the spectacular Hungry Hill Falls, the tallest in Ireland and the hairpins and switchbacks rival those in the Italian Alps. Fortunately there are passing bays at regular intervals as the road is only wide enough for traffic in one direction. The trip back down is like a rollercoaster ride and just prey that there is no traffic heading uphill to spoil the thrill. The busy port town of Adrigole sits at the southern end of the road and from here you head east through the oak forests of Glengarriff to Bantry which marks the end of the Beara Way.

The city of Bantry has been blessed by the gods both Celtic and Christian. Encircled by mountains and bordered by the sea it has some of the most breathtaking scenery in Ireland. The vegetation is lush with palms and tropical flowers. The Gulf Stream literally beats a path to its front door. The mountain sides abound in cascading streams, hillside pastures, lakes and woodlands where megalithic monuments and monastic ruins are strewn like pebbles on the ground. The town is one of the most colourful in the country and was once traversed by Venetian style waterways. Stroll along the promenade through the centre of town past brightly decorated houses and shop or walk along the seafront and rest at one of the many view point. Dine at one of the many restaurants and sample the local produce or just relax in one of the Pubs or outdoor Cafes. This place exudes friendliness and charm.

Now that you are rested and refreshed the south coast awaits. The Mizen Peninsular stretches its way to the most south westerly point in Ireland. Along the way you pass through a landscape of outstanding scenic beauty. The journey begins at Ballydehob where there has been settlement since before the Bronze Age. Megaliths abound nearby and copper and gold were mined at nearby Mount Gabriel over 4000 years ago. The town is a patchwork of colourful gables, housing antique shop, craft galleries and bookshop along with many excellent bars, restaurants and cafes. In recent times it has become a centre of the Arts with many artists, sculptors, writers and craftspeople living in the vicinity.

Along the way you pass through isolated country villages and sleepy sea side ports like Schull, the departure for the local islands and Goleen with its secret harbour, Heron Cove. A narrow winding street in the middle of town leads to a tranquil retreat where the images of blue and white boats are reflected like a shimmering mirror in the stillness of the evening ebb tide. Eight kilometres further on is the penultimate destination of our trip, Mizen Head. From the visitor's centre car park, perched atop a precipice that drops into the Atlantic you take a path that lead to “the ninety nine steps” that wind down the cliff face to the award winning Maritime Museum housed in the Mizen Head Signal Station. On the way down you'll pass static displays that capture the spirit of its maritime history; code flags, a huge propeller of an ill-fated ship and the earliest signal antennae. This was after all where Marconi came to trial the first radio transmissions to America. The biggest surprise waits at the bottom of the pathway for the headland is actually an island sundered from the mainland by a deep abyss that conjures up visions from the dim recesses of ones mind, especially in the late afternoon when the shadowy gap is dark and brooding with the thunderous roar of crashing waves. But fear not there are no monsters to challenge you passing across the narrow arched bridge, which is encased in protective barriers. Just keep moving and don't look down. The Museum is an experience not to be missed. It includes historic as well as environmental exhibits along with displays on lighthouse construction, sea life, underwater wrecks, the fastnet race, keeper's kitchen and bedroom, map and archive room and audiovisual displays. The Mizen Light was once know as the “Light at the End of the World”

Our final destination is Crookhaven, which lies midway between Goleen and Mizen Head. This sheltered harbour gets it name from its narrow U-shape. It holds a special place in Ireland's national psyche for it was once the last port of call for ships heading for America. It was major port for Trans-Atlantic shipping where it was said one could walk across the harbour on the decks of boats. The present day Crookhaven with less than thirty permanent residents is a far cry from the halcyon days of the late 19th century when the population was around 700.

A lilting Irish melody from 0'Sullivans Bar on the quayside drifts on the warm evening breeze; a poignant reminder of the past. This was the last vision of the Erin Shore that most of those who were forced through circumstance to abandon Ireland for a new and uncertain life in America would ever see. The last time they would gaze upon those colourful streets, bustling ports, wooded hills, verdant glens, cool clear mountain stream and stone lined fields. A deeply religious people banished from their earthly paradise. They sailed away beyond the deep waters of Crookhaven, past the brooding heights of Mizen Head guided by the solitary sentinel of Fastnet Rock; a jagged spire wrought by wind and wave just beyond sight of land. It is forever know as the “Teardrop of Ireland”, the last sight of home. Like elves with bittersweet memories of Middle Earth as they sailed into the west forever.

Ireland has reinvented itself, which is not surprising given that it gave birth to civilisation in Europe. Irish was the first written European language at a time when Britain and the rest of the Continent had descended into darkness. Ireland remained a solitary beacon of civilisation and eventually sparked the revival that led to the Europe we see today; a fact that those of us with an Anglo-centric upbringing have remained oblivious to. Ireland has once again become an economic “Wunderkind” of Europe. It is comforting to know that it has not come at the expense of all that is green and good in the world.

Upon arriving in Dublin airport I hired a car to explore the whole of Southern Ireland.

Dublin is a metropolitan city and it can be very confusing driving through the city of Dublin for the first time as you have to negotiate the one-way traffic systems. On the way to my hotel I noticed a variety of ornate Georgian doors. They are usually crowned with a segmented fanlight and a heavy brass knocker. These doors are very elegant and represent a time of real prosperity in Dublin.

Temple Bar

Once I had found my hotel and had unpacked I visited the cultural quarter of Temple Bar and the shopping areas such as Grafton Street. I sampled a pint of Guinness in an amazing café/restaurant called Café en Seine which had a deceivingly small exterior and an interior that was enormous inside.

The National Museum of Dublin

The next day I went to The National Museum of Dublin, which houses a collection of artefacts dating from the Stone Age to the 20th Century. There were items such as belt buckles that were decorated with traditional Celtic patterns and I was very impressed with the skill of the craftsmanship. Some of the most exquisite items were: -

St. Patrick's Bell - A 12th Century bell housed in a decorative jewelled shrine made of bronze.

Tara Broach - An ornate broach, which dates back to the 8th Century, decorated with gold, filigree and entwined around amber and enamel.

Trinity College

After some refreshment I then proceeded on to Trinity College, which houses the Book of Kells. The famous book is a richly decorated medieval illuminated manuscript created by monks who fled to Kells in 806 AD. Each page contains highly intricate lettering combined with interlacing spirals and symbolism. Within Trinity College is the majestic library called The Long Room, which houses over 200,000 antique texts and a beautiful spiral staircase.

Kilkenny Design Centre

Kilkenny is described as Ireland's loveliest inland city - and I can see why. I walked up the charming, traditional high street with coloured houses, which are a common feature of Southern Ireland.

The Design Centre houses a shop with local craft for sale including jewellery, glass, textile and wood. There was also an exhibition showing work originated from the Kilkenny Design Studios. Within these small studios you are able to see the artists at work.

Waterford

Waterford is Ireland's oldest city and on first sight seems very industrial with many factories. Waterford is of course famous for its crystal and there was a large variety of decorative crystal on display including chandeliers, wine carafes etc.

Cork

I had decided to stay at Lotamore House, an elegant Georgian residence in Cork. I found the place full of character, including rich warm colours, intricate furnishings and exquisite antiques. All the bedrooms were decorated differently and included a flat screen television. I noticed in the living room damask patterned wallpaper, a popular feature of Georgian interiors. The staff were very accommodating and made me a bacon buttie upon request.

Blarney Castle

While in Cork I decided to visit the Blarney Castle. It was built by King Dermot McCarthy in 1446 and its design is typical of a 15th Century tower-house. I climbed right to the top where the legendary Blarney Stone is situated. Kissing the Blarney Stone is a long-standing tradition and is supposed to give the person the gift of talking Blarney - talking with eloquence.

Kinsale

Kinsale is another of Ireland's very pretty towns, with pastel coloured houses and handcrafted shop signs. It is a popular yachting centre and also famous for eating out. While I was walking around I discovered a traditional horse-drawn caravan.

Bantry

I first decided to visit Bantry House, which is a short walk from the bay, but it was unfortunately closed. I had a good look around the large gardens that overlooked the bay and the view of the harbour, Whiddy Island and the Caha Mountains was fantastic. The Italian garden at the back of the house is inspired by the Boboli gardens in Florence and also include the “Staircase to the Sky” - a large stone staircase.

Ring of Kerry

I drove around the Ring of Kerry but I didn't have much luck with the weather. Frequent snow showers and a heavy mist had descended, taking away the chance of taking any inspiring photographs of the hills and coastline. I drove through some charming fishing villages, free from the trappings of commercialisation - this was the real Ireland that I wanted to see.

Glin Castle, Limerick

On the banks of the River Shannon stands the majestic Glin Castle where I was fortunate to stay for the night. It was originally owned by the Knight of Glin and his wife Madam Fitzgerald for over 200 years. It is housed on an estate of 500 acres of dairy farm and parkland. The castle is full of Irish paintings and antique furniture that the patrons have collected over the centuries. Influenced by Robert Adams, the castle takes on a Georgian theme and is luxuriously furnished throughout.

Galway

The final destination on my journey through Southern Ireland was Galway, a lively university city. As I was there for St. Patrick's Day the streets were bustling with people out for a good time.

St. Patrick used the shamrock to symbolize the trinity of God the Father, God the Son and God the Holy Spirit. The shamrock has been associated with St. Patrick and Ireland ever since.

My trip to Southern Ireland had been cultural and enlightening and I will not hesitate in returning to explore further the charm of this beautiful country.