Big Apple Hostel, New York City, USA

Conveniently located just off Times Square in Manhattan, its location really needs no more explanation. The Big Apple Hostel provides dorm rooms as well as private rooms with shared bathing facilities and is within walking distance of numerous Broadway Theaters, The Empire State Building, Central Park, and The Rockefeller Center. Kitchen facilities, a common room, and backyard barbeque area are provided and laundry services can also be arranged. A wonderful atmosphere is provided from both travelers and the fantastic management which is at your service day and night. Rates are reasonable and start at $39US.

Hostal Miralva, Madrid, Spain

Located in the heart of Madrid on C/ Valverde, a short walk from Gran Via, Hostal Miralva is a quaint little hostel which has recently been refurbished. A choice of shared and private rooms is available with the same choice being available for bathroom amenities. All rooms provide a safe, wash basin, and television. It is within walking distance of most of the important Plazas including Plaza Mayor and Plaza de Cibeles. The hostel is family run and they are extremely welcoming and very helpful. If you are looking for peace and quiet however, this may not be the place for you as restaurants located in the vicinity provide a lot of noise into the wee small hours. Prices for Hostal Miralva start at around 20 Euros for shared rooms and increase to around 30 Euros for a private.

Yellow House, Rome, Italy

Although situated at Via Argonauti 14, a little further out of the center city than other hostels, Yellow House is a 1 minute walk from the Rome underground Metro system and so easy access to all attractions is not hard. On arrival, you may think you are staying in the ghetto for all the graffiti around and it can be very hard to find once off the Metro. But fear not, it is a safe neighborhood and the graffiti is only due to the mass of students living in the area which coincidently provides a pretty good night life. The staff are young, ex-travelers who have stayed on to run the place for the owner and they provide a very real and comprehensive list of things for you to do in Rome. A choice of shared and private rooms is available and shared bathrooms are your only option. Breakfast is provided and a safe is available for important documents. Prices are cheap, starting at around 22 Euros. So if you're looking for something a little different, quirky, and with a great atmosphere, this is the place for you.

Three Little Pigs Hostel, Berlin, Germany

A former hospital building in the heart of Berlin is just the place for a fantastic, pink painted, hostel. Located right beside Potsdamer Platz at Stresemannstraße 66, the Three Little Pigs gives you access to possibly the best area in the German capital, within walking distance of the Holocaust Memorial, The Berlin Wall, and the Brandonburg Gate. As well as its own bar for socializing with other travelers, the Three Little Pigs provides both shared and private rooms, shared bathrooms, kitchen facilities, buffet breakfast, and internet access. Safes are located in most rooms and the staff are busy, but welcoming and helpful. Bike hire and free city tours are also available. Prices range from 13 Euros to around 35 Euros and are worth every cent. So if you're not freaked out by sleeping in an eerie but refurbished old hospital, this is definitely for you.

Hotel Namaskar, Delhi, India

Although not technically speaking a hostel, Hotel Namaskar provides a once in a lifetime experience for all budget travelers. Situated in the heart of Old Delhi and in the chaos of Paharganj, Hotel Namaskar is an experience to savour. Rooms are small, cell like, concrete blocks but offer a character second to none. A number of rooms don't have windows and air conditioning is non-existent. Most rooms have their own bathroom (squatter toilets and a bucket for washing), however some rooms do share and provide a Euro toilet and shower. A safe is located at the hotel foyer along with bottled water, toilet paper, and some food items for sale. The service provided by the staff is very welcoming. They will go out of their way for you. Little, quaint balconies and a wonderful view from the roof are features unique to Hotel Namaskar as is the fantastic, local coffee shop at its front door. Prices start at around a measly 600 rupees.

D & D Inn, Bangkok, Thailand

Right in the budget, young people, tourist mecca, that is Kao San Road, sits the D & D Inn. Not the most budget of the hostels you will find on this chaotic street, it provides more of a hotel feel than a hostel feel with the exception of the steady mass of 20 something's moving through its doors. A multi storied building; you will find shared or private rooms, shared and private bathrooms, as well as a rooftop swimming pool, massage facilities, a/c, and internet access. What more could you ask for? Right downstairs on the street is your link to anywhere in the city but you might spend a couple of days lapping up the shopping on Kao San first. Prices start at around 600 baht and is well worth your dosh.

Backpacker Cozy Corner Guesthouse, Singapore

Right in Singapore's bustling heart at 490 North Bridge Road, and on the second floor, you will find Backpacker Cozy Corner Guesthouse. Giving you shared and private room options, the hostel also provides free internet, laundry services, and a comfortable, welcoming atmosphere. As well as great service the Backpacker Cozy Corner Guesthouse is a short distance from some of Singapore's best spots including Orchard Place for your shopping fix, Raffles Hotel for a rather expensive Singapore Sling, and a range of inexpensive street restaurants which are fantastic. Prices start very reasonable at around 28 Singapore Dollars. A great place to stay for its location and affordability.

Bumbles Backpackers, Queenstown, New Zealand

Only a 300m walk from downtown Queenstown on Cnr of Lake Esplanade & Brunswick Sts, Bumbles Backpackers provides travelers with a choice of dorm and private rooms, communal bathrooms, kitchen, and outdoor living areas, and sensational panoramic views of Lake Wakatipu and The Remarkables mountain range. The managers are very welcoming and helpful and will provide you with information on a mass of tourist adventures including skiing, bungy jumping, jet boating, as well as Queentown's fantastic music and nightlife. Stay at Bumbles for an affordable $28NZ.

It proves not to be a good decision however as I sleep in a little too long which means that when I do finally get to the Mother Teresa House, my American guides are gone and so I am going to have to negotiate the journey to Howrah, which is on the opposite side of Kolkata, alone. I also miss my banana, bread and chai for breakfast which makes me doubly annoyed.

I manage to catch the correct bus by finding the stop I got on at yesterday and have the most entertaining ride. My rickety old bus is hurtling towards a round-about intersection and I'm thinking that we are going faster than normal (which is pretty fast considering what normal is), and out of the corner of my eye I notice another bus coming towards the intersection from the right, also travelling ridiculously fast. A game of "chicken" springs to mind at this point and I'm starting to get a little scared. Two buses flying towards each other and I'm thinking, are we going to stop? Oh we stop alright, inches before smashing into the other bus and this creates chaos and wrecks havoc with some of the passengers. The guy beside me has flown towards the windscreen as he is in the only seat on the bus that has no rail in front of it, right at the front. He stops himself by grabbing the nearest rail and grazing his arm. I turn to see what has happened behind me and two ladies are rubbing their foreheads after smashing them on the rail of the seat in front of them and there are people strewn everywhere. Insane!

After numerous wrongs turns on my winding walk through the chaotic morning back streets of Howrah, I make it to Shishu Bhavan on time and uninjured. I'm pretty stoked about life in general. My tasks today include hanging copious amounts of washing out and just having fun with the children. While hanging washing out, I see one of the girls who is 8 years old and obviously not at school today. She is writing in some kind of book and so I go over and see what she's doing. I find out through her limited English and my poor attempts at speaking Bengali, that she is doing her homework. I ask her to teach me a few words and so we practice a few common nouns in each others language and have some laughs. After I'm shooed away by one of the sisters for stopping the youngster from doing her homework, I reflect on how different our cultures and lives are and feel privileged to have been involved in hers even if for only a few minutes.

After finishing at the orphanage for the day I head back to the Mother Teresa House for the nativity play rehearsal, and then a fantastically tasting paneer curry from Zurich's Café. I think about the life I have and the lives of the children at Shishu Bhavan and how different we are.

After disembarking the Konkan Express from Mumbai at Margao in South Goa, get a prepaid taxi from right outside the station and head for Margao Residency, a better than budget hostel/hotel in the centre of Margao. The hostel has a selection of dorm or private rooms and will cost you between 800 - 1200 rupees depending on the season. They provide a laundry, internet, shop, and restaurant within the hostel as well as restaurant within walking distance nearby. Margao is the unofficial capital of South Goa and is situated so that all major amenities are reachable in a very limited time.

Tip: South Goa is the quieter area of Goa and so good for families, older travellers, or people looking for a more relaxed atmosphere.

12pm

Head right across the road for a late breakfast at Longuino's. They have a great selection of food on their menu including Indian, Chinese, and European dishes and a number of dishes have a strong Portuguese flavour to them as the Portuguese were the first colonisers of this area. Your first Kingfisher of the day wouldn't go astray either as you have just come off a long overnight train journey.

1pm

Grab an auto-rickshaw and head 5mins out of town to Colva Beach where your first taste of sun, surf and sand can be experienced. Everything "beachy" is situated here including fantastically warm surf, lazy beach shack restaurants with menus to make your mouth water, and budget surf shops for your well deserved shopping fix.

Tip: As with most of the beaches in the state of Goa, if you are there in the quiet period of the year (July-August), the fisherman will have been out for their catch and any fish that are not wanted are just thrown over the side, making swimming a little unpleasant. You will also find that some of the beach restaurants will be closed until the busy season (November-January).

2pm

Grab a taxi and ask the driver to take you the spice plantation in the town of Savoi Verum which is 10km north of the City of Ponda and about a half hour taxi ride from Margao. Here you will experience a traditional Indian welcome, lunch, a tour of the plantation including explanations of the cashew fruit, vanilla, and other spices, and an Indian Elephant experience. You will be expected to pay a fee to tour the plantation which is around 500 rupees and they almost expect you to buy some sort of herbal remedy at the conclusion of the tour.

4pm

Using your same taxi and driver, head for Old Goa to experience the religious sector including visiting the numerous old churches and the body of St Francis Xavier whose remains are almost perfectly preserved for your viewing pleasure. Once you've paid your respects, head into the Old Goa Museum and experience the history of the Portuguese colonialists and the founding of the state of Goa.

Tip: Touts, beggars, pick-pockets and sellers are in abundance in Old Goa so if that's your cup of tea, bring lots of cash for plenty of souvenirs and make sure your personal belongings are secure.

7pm

Get your driver to drop you off at Bogmalo Beach in the north part of South Goa. This beach is very quiet and serene and a great place to just relax. Head for one of a number of beach restaurants and order Goan sausage with a Cashew Feni (strong cashew flavoured nip) to wash it down. Then cleanse your body in the tropical waters after dinner before making your way back to Margao.

Tip: Payment for your taxi driver for the afternoon may be a bit of trial and error. You will most likely find that he will ask you to name a price for him. Think about other trips you've taken in India and compare it with the distance you have been and then depending on your service, give him a decent tip also. Remember, he has given up other fares for the afternoon to guide you around the state. 1500 - 2000 rupees plus a tip would probably be sufficient.

9pm

Take your well deserved beauty sleep for the night at Margao Residency and prepare for another hectic day tomorrow.

Tip: If a night-cap is needed before hitting the hay, pick yourself up a bottle or two of the famous Goan Port (fortified wine). This can be found at one of a bunch of liquor stores in Margao and is well worth your while.

6am

After an early morning wake up call, head upstairs to Margao Residency's hotel restaurant Preethi Classic, which serves pretty decent coffee for India and great milky, sugary tea.

7am

Take your pick of one of many cabs right outside the hotel doors and make your way to the exciting, exhilarating North Goa beach of Anjuna. Here you will find arguably the best beach in the state of Goa. Again, beach restaurants and sun, surf and sand are in abundance and if you're looking for a pretty well designed henna tattoo, this is your place. Plenty of stalls have been erected for your shopping pleasure and be sure not to miss the world famous Anjuna Markets which run in the high season usually only on a Tuesday or Wednesday afternoon. Here you can find the real Indian shopping experience with fruits and vegetables, clothing, jewellery and all sorts of Goan treasures at your disposal.

Tip: On your trip up from Margao, keep a close eye out for elephants which can be seen from the roadside, usually with their owners, completing tasks as if you were living a century ago.

Tip: Accommodation in Anjuna is very easy to find with plenty of places on or in the vicinity of, the spectacular and relaxing beach.

Tip: The night life in and around Anjuna is fantastic with plenty of clubs, pubs and beach parties to satisfy your soul and arouse your senses.

There are plenty of other places to visit in the state of Goa which have not been mentioned because you wouldn't be able to fit it all into 24 hours which is what this article is based around. Some other things you might like to see or do on your trip could be:

• Hire a scooter and guide yourself around the state. These are pretty cheap to hire for a day, around 300 rupees, and can be organised at your hotel. However, fairly easily to get lost and the roads rules don't seem to apply in India at times remember.
• Visit Panjim, the capital city of the state of Goa. Here you can take an entertaining cruise on the river and it's a great place to replenish your cash money as it's one of the only places in Goa with a Thomas Cook money exchange.
• Visit Calangute Beach which is the other hot spot beach in Northern Goa. Like Anjuna, it's where a lot of the Goan action happens. Don't miss it.

For more information and experiences on Goa, have a fascinating read of Rask Balavoine's piece A Different Goa or Krish's piece Unforgettable Trip to Goa.

Peace.

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A great site for finding affordable flights, hotels, cruises and tours. They have fantastic package deals on offer also and provide destination reviews and guides which are okay, but nothing compared to Lonely Planet's advice. Essentially whatever you are looking for, Travelocity will find you the best price for most services on the days you are looking for. Quick and easy.

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These guys give travellers the opportunity to try something a little different offering off-the-beaten-track tours and adventures. From Himalayan treks and hikes to a trip to one of the Polar Regions, whatever crazy trip you are looking for, World Expeditions is sure to have it. The down side to this site is that they don't provide transport to the trip starting point or from the trip end point.

The best site for independent travel insurance and advice. World Nomads provides a range of insurance options for whatever type of trip you are planning. Their packages are very affordable and coverage is for pretty much every possible insurance claim situation. They offer, like most travel sites, a forum area for travellers wanting to share experiences and also provide an online travel equipment site.

Take a pre paid taxi from Mumbai International Airport to Colaba and check yourself in at the Apollo Guesthouse. This low budget hotel in the heart of the Mumbai tourist centre has Euro showers and toilets and even has air-conditioning which works but is fairly noisy and irritating. You can find the Apollo Guesthouse upstairs and in behind a leather shoe and sandal store which makes it quite unique and a little hard to find. Rates here range from about 800 to 1000 rupees.

Tip: Don't worry if you think that arriving this early will keep you out of a bed. Almost all of the hotel porters at budget places live in house and so will gladly check you in at whatever hour. Just give him a generous tip and don't scare the hell of him when you open the door!

6am

If you're in Mumbai during the Northern Hemisphere winter months, make sure you catch the entertaining and spiritually cleansing Laughing Club which operates in the gardens across from the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower Hotel and in front of the famous Gateway of India before the working day starts. The Laughing Club is a get together of people from all walks of life who believe that starting your day by laughing is good for the soul. They do a range of laughs from different countries, including a New Zealand laugh which is very interesting to say the least. So whether you're looking to be cleansed or just entertained, get up early and take a look. It's well worth while.

8am

Get yourself down to the famous Leopold's Café and Bar, a short walk down the Colaba Causeway from the Apollo Guesthouse, where you will have a massive array of dishes to choose from for breakfast. Unlike some places in India, the Leopold chefs cook European style food reasonably well if you're looking for bacon and eggs, otherwise their Indian and Chinese dishes are excellent.

9am

Head on foot back to the famous Gateway of India monument for your pics and monument viewing fix. The Gateway Monument was built as a symbol for approaching ships to be the first thing they saw upon entering the city. While in the monument vicinity, book your ticket for a trip to Elephanta Island to view the famous temples and sculptures that date back thousands of years.

Tip: Con artists are very prevalent in this area. One great scam is a "lucky charm bracelet" being attached to your wrist seemingly out of good will. But don't be fooled, these men and children working for them, will follow you until you pay them grandly for it and they also leave a nasty red dye stain on your wrist.

10am

Board your boat to Elephanta Island. The trip should take around 40mins but this can change depending on the weather, and if it's bumpy be prepared for a harrowing and nauseating experience. Once on Elephanta Island you can view the temples and carvings of Hindu Gods by taking a small train (kind of like the Kiwi version of the Noddy Train) from the pier and then walking up what seems like hundreds of steps. Be prepared to pay for the viewings more than once. A "tourist" fee is charged at the pier and then again when you reach the temples. The fees are not cheap either; 500 rupees at the temple entrance. You can eat at a number of places on the island and the one right at the top of the island near the temples will provide you with a great view back towards Mumbai, but some fairly average food.

Tip: The monkeys all over this island will steal anything that is not tied down, especially your food, so keep an eye out.

2pm

Book a guided tour of Mumbai either through your hotel or from touts at the Gateway of India who will always be offering their services. The tour, depending on who you go with, will include a taxi ride of the city to numerous tourist attractions including The Jain Temple, The Hanging Gardens (where the Jain religion brings their dead for the crows to feast on), The Washing Ghats (where clothing is washed for millions by hand), The Mahatma Ghandi Museum, and an outpost overlooking the entire city of Mumbai. This tour is well worthwhile and for around 1500 rupees plus a tip, is pretty affordable.

5pm

After being dropped back at the Gateway of India, head back up the Causeway on foot for your cheap shopping experience. Everything you could think of is being offered for sale right on there on the street including DVDs, books, belts, Indian Cricket memorabilia, clothing and jewellery.

Tip: Don't get caught out of cash on a Sunday. All the money exchange places including the Travelex in Colaba will be closed and so you will be forced to exchange money on the black market. Not advised, but as a last resort they do offer rates very close to what the exchange rate actually is and as a plus, they are not be hard to find!

7pm

Café Mondegar, just up from Leopold's, is a great place for dinner and a tourist mecca. The food is pretty good especially the Indian Curries, and the jukebox, young crowd and plenty of Kingfisher Beer make for an entertaining evening. You can also purchase Café Mondegar remembrance t-shirts for the ultimate experience.

9pm

Head back down to Leopold's Café and Bar for clubbing Indian style, upstairs from the restaurant. Hard to spot if you didn't know about it, they provide mostly American pop music and serve top shelf spirits and a range of beers for a reasonable price. A great place to meet other backpackers and tourists.

11pm

Board the overnight Konkan Express from Victoria Station to the gorgeous state of Goa. The trip will take you around 10 hours overnight depending on stops along the way. Book the second class sleeper carriage which will give you fold down bed in an 8 person compartment. This is not as cheap as taking a bus from Mumbai, but it shaves off a few hours. Don't worry about going hungry or not being able to shine your shoes either, as at every stop, sellers will get on offering all types of services. A Chai or two and an Indian Samosa would be recommended which should fill a hole.

Tip: You can book the Konkan Express online and you need to do it well before your trip as seats fill up extremely fast as everyone tries to get to the sun, sand and surf.

My first impression of the city of Kolkata is a very positive one. Contrary to my expectations and other people's interpretations, there seems to be less rubbish, less pollution, and less congestion. Whether this is because of the fact that my senses are well used to the Indian way of life remains to be seen, but I feel like I have seen worse places on my trip so far than what I see in Kolkata.

After arriving at Hotel Crystal, which is slightly better than what I experienced in Delhi, I take a walk to the famous Mother House, visit and pay my respects to Mother Teresa's grave and prepare for the penultimate experience of my trip, volunteer work for the Missionaries of Charity which include; Kalighat Home For The Dying (it has been described as the grimmest place on earth), Shishu Bhavan Howrah (Orphanage), and Prem Dan (Handicapped and Disabled). This would prove to be an enlightening and life changing experience.

After talking with Sister M. Karina about my tasks and what to expect tomorrow, I take a moment of reflection over a coffee at Barista, think about what I'm going to experience, and bask in the blissful air-conditioned heaven.

I notice a big Christmas feel around Kolkata which I find ironic because of the fact that the religious majority are Hindu, with Muslim's, and Sikh's also prevalent. The Christian influence tends to be in the Goan south west and so the tinsel, fake Christmas trees, Santa's, and snow flakes seem to be purely for marketing purposes. However, everyone appears to be extra cheery at the moment, all offering me Christmas greetings and handshakes.

I eat dinner at a place called Zarich's Café which serve street food but is very accommodating , and settle in for an early night to prepare for the 5.30am start and a whole new world of thinking which will open after tomorrows experiences.

“The fruit of service is peace.”

Mother Teresa

Take a pre paid taxi from Delhi International Airport to Main Bazaar, Parahganj in the heart of Old Delhi and check yourself into hotel Namaskar. The taxi should cost around 250 to 350 rupees and the hotel is low budget at around 800 rupees per night. You get what you pay for; small concrete clad rooms, squatter toilets, solid beds with a couple of blankets, and a bucket and cup for washing.

Tip: You can get an upgrade to a shower and a Euro toilet but it will cost you more and you would be better to check into an all round nicer place for the price they will charge you.

6am

Get yourself an authentic Indian style breakfast from Sonu Café on Main Bazaar. Highly recommended is a Masala Dosa which is like a crispy pancake and spicy vegetables rolled to make a delicious, very affordable meal. Top it all off with a cup of steaming hot Chai Sweet Tea which will give you a sugary burst for the start of the day whilst admireing the roaming cows and dogs as you dine.

7am

Head down to the Delhi Railway Station, a short walk to the end of Main Bazaar, and book yourself a return ticket to Agra and the Taj Mahal. A 3 to 4 hour train journey each way makes this an easy day trip. 2nd class sleeper carriage bookings would be recommended on the train, getting you soft, roomy seating, sleeping options, and of course the blessed air con. This is unless you want to ride 3rd class (the cheapest option) and bear the journey with wooden seats, no windows, and no air con.

10am

Grab a cab or if you prefer the more excitable option, an autorickshaw, and head to the gates of the worlds most famous marble structure, the Taj Mahal. At the checkpoint, there are certain things you will not be able to take in so be prepared to get yourself a safe deposit box for these things. The guards at the checkpoint will happily show you how to do this. This is recommended anyway as pick pockets and scam artists are very prevalent in the area especially outside the gates.

Once inside take some pics and guide yourself, as navigation of the place is easy and unless you want to hear all the amazing facts about the Taj, a guide is not necessary. Make sure you get a picture of the marvellous structure in the waters reflection. You will have no problem getting somebody to take the shot for you but be prepared to pay a small fee for their help though.

Tip: Remember to remove your shoes before entering the Taj because if you don't, you will soon be told!

12pm

Grab a bite to eat and a refreshing Kingfisher at one of the many nearby cafes. If you're low on cash, head further from the Taj Mahal attraction to get the better deals. Definitely don't buy from the vendors at the entrance to the Taj. Alternately, you can wait for the train trip back to Delhi and buy from the many sellers that get on the train at the many stops. They are very affordable and usually have a generous selection.

1pm

Catch the 2nd class sleeper back to Delhi making sure you get in a few winks as you still have a lot to do before the day is out.

4pm

Back at Delhi Train Station, grab a bottle of water and an autorickshaw and get the driver to take you to the Red Fort via the Indian Government Buildings and India Gate. The rickshaw ride should cost you around 40 rupees to get to the Government Buildings but be prepared to barter and pick and choose for a good deal. The driver might wait around to take you on to the Red Fort but for a good price. But it's easy enough to find another willing driver anyway.

The Government Buildings and India Gate are within walking distance of each other and are really just photo ops for the share elegance and vastness of the buildings. Pics of the guards with big machine guns are not advisable.

Once at Red Fort, get yourself a guide and let him walk you through the structure as it is a fairly sizeable place and in some instances could be quite boring if you didn't know what you were looking at. They have some great stories and provide you with some added fun along the way. Just be sure he is not charging you an arm and a leg for the tour. In most cases he may ask you to give him a price to take you around so just compare with your taxi rides, food, etc and decide on a fair price. Tip him well if he does a good job.

6pm

For something a bit different and to ease your shopping urges, head to the Underground Markets, which incidentally are underground, and start spending. Get your fix of traditional clothing, items of jewellery, and everybody's favourite, a massive selection of counterfeit DVD's.

Tip: For DVD's, make sure you go to a place that has a DVD player so they can show you the quality of your purchases. All places say they are "very good quality" but you don't really want people clapping, cheering, and walking around in the middle of your blockbuster movie.

7pm

Walk to the nearby Connaught Circle to get your only taste of Western style shops in Delhi, including a McDonalds, which incidentally, is the only one in a city of about 8 million. Try the Maharaja Mac, India's answer to the Big Mac. If you have some spare cash, purchase a Naga Shawl which is a hand made rug that can be used as a wall hanging or for an extra blanket. These range in price from around 600 rupees onwards.

8pm

Head back to Pahraganj and eat dinner at Sam's Rooftop Restaurant on Main Bazaar. Yep that's right, it's a rooftop restaurant which offers you an amazing view of the streets below and the surrounding areas.

Tip: Order Indian meals rather than the European style meals they have on offer. They cook European meals very badly at Sam's and so a vegetarian paneer (potato) curry and a naan will do you and your stomach just fine.

10pm

Grab some takeaway Kingfisher big bottles from Sam's and head back to Hotel Namaskar for some much needed rest and relaxation before departure the following morning.

1am

Most of the taxi drivers to take you to the airport will be in bed at this time but fair not; most, if not all, sleep in their cars on the side of the road and will not hesitate to take you to the airport departure area, for a larger fee of course. Remember, because it is early morning and not a pre paid taxi, you will pay a lot more than you did for your fare into Delhi.

2am

Check in and rest up before your departure to wherever your next destination may be. Have fun!

After a quick trip by taxi down to the river with my guide Mr Dipate on hand, we board a small wooden boat driven by an "untouchable" whose name eludes me. Mr Dipate seems to know him though which is not unusual because he seems to know everybody who chews the beetle nut, and the ones who don't.

Out on the water I am mesmerised at the number of people using the river for bathing, washing clothes, swimming and even brushing their teeth, as it is the dirtiest, most polluted water I have ever seen. Rubbish, faecal matter and ash from the nearby burning ghats, makes up a disgusting concoction that I don't even once consider dipping my fingers into.

Amongst all this however, I am able to see fantastic temples and the mythical burning ghats where the dead are cremated and their ashes deposited for eternity into the holy waters. I don't see a cremation in process but manage to catch a glimpse of a body being prepared for the cremation process along with the family of the deceased standing nearby (no women). I feel like I am intruding into the private lives of families at this point and feel a little ashamed of my prying and prudent interest in their family member's death. Mr Dipate has advised me about photos and not to take them of the cremation process and I see, and feel, how this is a rule that needs to remain unbroken.

Even in this mercurial place of Indian holiness it is interesting to note the dirt, the grime, and the roaming animals. In my mind, before coming to the holy city, I imagined that it would be cleaner; more savoured by the people, but the share numbers of inhabitants clearly makes this impossible. I am also surprised that tourists, like myself, are able to impose themselves on the area and interrupt and intrude on the process of death. Once again I feel guilt and disrespect.

I am annoyed to find that as soon as I am on the boat, another couple of old, derelict, wooden boats and their owners are upon us trying to sell me mementos of everything from the River and Temple miniatures, to an assortment of jewellery. I had thought that being on the water and the presence of sacredness might eliminate this, but obviously not.

After this minding blowing experience, I am reduced to my hotel room for reflection and contemplation of what I have seen today and probably of which I may never see again. Tomorrow I leave Varanasi and Mr Dipate behind and head for West Bengal and the expansiveness and poverty of Kolkata.

Keeping a travel journal, taking pictures or using the camcorder on your trip is a good idea. In the future, when you read the journal, look at the pictures or the camcorder stuff, you will be very glad that you did. It will be interesting to read those journals, look at the pictures of your trip or watch a video tape of it. Who knows, you might get a funny picture or something on the video that will really make you laugh. A tip for you, get creative with your camera or camcorder. You might be surprised at how good it will turn out. If you can not afford to go on real long trips, because of the gas prices, money etc... just take a short trip. Whether it is a long trip or a short trip, it is good to get out to a different place. Even if all you can afford to do is go for a long walk, it is good for you.

From day to day most of us go through the same routine pretty much. So it is good to get out of that routine and go some where. If you have been going through a lot of battles, traveling could be what you need to give yourself a break from all your battles. When you come back to those battles, you will feel better and will be able to handle any battles that come your way. Traveling can be like a big relief from things. It can also be good for the ones who have just not been feeling too good. When you get out, see the pretty scenery, laugh and have fun it can be healing to you. They say that laughter is like medicine.

For you who love to watch action and adventure type of movies, traveling can be a big adventure. Adventures that will be fun, interesting, relaxing and a good learning experience. Whether it is going camping in the mountains, going to an amusement park, a zoo, to the beach, an old historical town, to a big city, etc... it is an adventure that is fun and interesting. A person never knows what kind of an adventure that they might get into when they travel.

Something else that is a fun thing to do when you travel. Take someone or a kid who does not get to travel and watch their face light up with joy. You will get such a blessing when you see that happy face. Plus you will be giving someone else an adventure and happy memories. Where maybe they never would have not got to have, if you would have not taken them with you. Remember that traveling can be an adventure and interesting. So try it out, you will be glad that you did!

As soon as I step off the train, I know this is going to be another out-there experience because the people trying to sell me things here, is more prominent than ever. Everything from little miniature Taj's, to camera and films, to bottled water, is being thrust in my face, and in every other unsuspecting tourists face. I tighten my grip on the pile of cash and passport in my pocket.

A short bus ride to the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, and an impressive Marble Emporium filled in most of my day before I was to catch the overnight train to the Holy City of Varanasi and the Ganges.

The Taj is a sight to behold and I just stand and marvel at its beauty and boldness before deciding to approach it for a closer look. It took 200 years to build and is a symbol of love from an Indian King to his wife, doubling also as her tomb. I am warned of a scam before venturing into the grounds of the Taj and that is taking a photo of you and acting as if it is a friendly gesture, and then charging you off the wall for the pic. Fortunately, I take my own pics. (It's interesting looking back at the pictures and the amount of random Indians that seem to invade the background of all of them.)

The Marble Emporium is crazy. All of the work is done on the ground outside; carving, smoothing, shining, and even sticking the little coloured glass pattern pieces to each item. It looks like pain-staking work and even though I can't afford to buy a piece, I take a photo and give the dude a tip for his picture. Just some amazing work.

After a Kingfisher and a vegetarian curry, I head back to the Agra train station and am faced with a 3 hour, unexpected wait for the train to Varanasi. The wait is long and cold and my stomach is not feeling at all good but I don't want to use the scummy train station toilets. I sit on the concrete platform, leaning against my pack and watch the many interesting happenings and goings on that the station provides.

Finally I board the second class, sleeper carriage, and with my feet sticking off the end of my bunk, get a good nights sleep in (as well as can be expected, what with food and beverage sellers boarding at every stop) before waking to yet another amazing, Indian city.

To be continued…