Myrtle Beach in November

When my friend asked me what I wanted to do for our 40th birthdays I replied, "I have a bet on a boxing match that I am going to watch."  Needless to say she was mortified, but kept her cool.  She quickly and excitedly replied, "Let's jump in my Lexus and drive down to Myrtle Beach.  I was perplexed.  The summer was over.  She knew I was not only a sun worshipper, but an ocean lover.  "What are you talking about?"  I reluctantly replied, "Let me think about it."  I did my research and realized although it was chilly in New York the weather in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina averaged around 65 degrees.  I wouldn't be sunbathing or swimming, but I could still frolic on the beach.  The crowds would be almost nonexistent and deserted shopping centers would allow us to be footloose.  I decided to go and I am glad I did.  We had a great time!

Traveling

The drive down was uneventful and pretty boring.  We left in the early morning hours on Thursday, November 14, 2007.  We beat all the traffic and the Lexus provided a more than primo ride.  Neither of us was too concerned or impressed with the scenery as we'd see it many times on separate occasions.  We made a pit stop in a small town called Roanoke Rapids, North Carolina off of I-95 to see some of my relatives and were back on the road again shortly thereafter.  As we got closer to South Carolina we began shedding layers of clothing.  I became more and more excited knowing we were getting closer to the warmth.  Finally, 11 hours later we were in Myrtle Beach.

Becoming Acquainted with the Beach

We stayed in a beautiful set of condos on the south end of the beach off Kings Highway.  As soon as we entered the room I made a beeline for the balcony.  I couldn't believe the scenery, a marvelous postcard backdrop.  The beach was vacant, the ocean was rough.  I was in my glory.  I immediately retired to the balcony in a chair to rest a bit before we hit the town, to find a place to stuff our faces.  I love seafood even more than I love the beach.  The forecast did call for rain later that evening and into the next morning, but we did not let that stop us.

Out on the Town

After we settled, we decided that since we had a full kitchen we would find the nearest grocery store and purchase some items to save some money.  We found a Food Lion grocery story in the area and picked up dinner for later that night and breakfast for the next couple days as we were sure we would want to sleep in every morning.  The food prices were considerably lower compared to what we were used to and we found ourselves buying food to lug back with us.  Consumers get further discounts with their Food Lion card, which you can get immediately upon filling out a short form.  "How cool," we thought.  We drove up and down Ocean Boulevard checking out the scene and realizing very quickly how nice it was to not have to deal with the traffic and crowds that normally seek refuge in Myrtle Beach during the summer months.  I was in Heaven.  I was also exhausted though.  The drive was relaxing, but very tiring.  We scoped out a couple souvenir shops we wanted to hit and a restaurant called the Crab House and then made our way back to the condo.  I needed to retreat and bask in the comfort of the ocean's abode.  As the sun made its departure, I lay on the couch watching the ocean disappear into the darkness and all that could be heard was the sound of the waves.  I had claimed my spot on the couch in front of the patio doors; although, we had two queen-sized beds and a full-sized bed.  I didn't want to miss the spectacular scenery showing.  We cooked some vittles, watched some television and I jumped on my laptop taking advantage of the serenity and finishing up a few chapters of my book.  Shortly, after I went to sleep on the couch.  I did not want to miss the sunrise.

The Myrtle Beach, South Carolina Sunrise

It was a magnificent specimen, the rising of the sun, as the ocean tickled its feet.  I took these spectacular pictures with my cell phone and used my webcam to record the sounds of the tides and waves calmly touch the shoreline to use for my morning meditation.  As marvelous as the scenery was in the daytime, it was equally as beautiful at night.  My only problem was neither my cell phone nor webcam were able to capture the million stars that graced the skies.  I have a high tech telescope that I left at home and I kicked myself a few times for forgetting it.  I had no idea!!!  I should not have been so hard on myself though; there wasn't enough room in the Lexus because we had bought so much food!

November 15, 2007: Rain, but Not a Total Bust

The following day it rained most of the day and my friend and I decided to take her mother-in-law up on her offer to check out a company called Wyndham Resorts to purchase some property on Myrtle Beach.  We sat through the presentation and found ourselves signing on the dotted line shortly thereafter.  I wanted more of what I had seen, the relaxation the peacefulness.  I was sold quickly and all I could think about was the many times I was going to frequent Myrtle Beach in the coming years.  My friend and I made a pact to go down at least once every other year, preferably on our birthdays.  We made our way back to the condo as we were not feeling the rain and decided to just stay indoors and relax.  After all that is what we truly came there for and we did plenty of it.

November 16, 2007: Fun in the Sun

My friend and I awoke to a similar marvelous sunrise and I was convinced that that particular sun couldn't be the same one that graced the New York sky.  It looked different, it was shaped different, it shone different, it felt different; it was just different.  I cooked fish and grits for my friend and I and we chowed down on the balcony under the morning sun.  I was content staying in the room for the remainder of our trip, but my friend was hell bent on getting out and spending some money.  I wanted to at least get out on the beach and build a sand castle or two, so I jumped into my sweatsuit and sneakers and headed for the shore.  It felt odd to not be donning my bikini, as one can imagine, but calming just the same.  My friend and I wrote messages in the sand to our kids; took pictures with our cell phones and sent them off.  It was a fine time to be turning 40.  Everywhere we went we let people know that we had just turned 40 and we not only got compliments, but also received some trinkets for free.

Shopping

My friend and I departed the beach.  I didn't go willingly; in fact I was kicking and screaming.  It was time to hit some shops and purchase some trinkets.  I had a long list of people I had to buy for and I managed to find everything I needed.  My friend bought me this wonderful lime green beach hat.  She's so expressive and thought it was the prettiest thing in the store and it was.  I was very appreciative to say the least.  We didn't do any big mall shopping; although we passed a few outlet stores on our quest to find the perfect souvenir shop.  We found that they basically all sold the same things and had the same prices, but we hit them all anyway.  Like most beach towns the surrounding areas are pretty much of the same, beach front restaurants, souvenir shops and night clubs; we just had them all to ourselves.  We did not frequent any of the night clubs as this was not our focus or reason for coming.  We would have come for Bike Week if we wanted that.  Instead, we opted to do what grown ups do and just relax, shop, enjoy the scenery and stuff our faces.

Eatery

There were many seafood restaurants to choose from and we had a very difficult time picking just one, but we finally decided on The Crab House.  We were not concerned with location (on the beach) or even price.  We wanted the catches to be fresh and the service to be excellent.  With the exception of another couple we were the only two people in there.  Again, I felt like I was in Heaven.  One waitress, all to ourselves and she was perfect.  Our meals consisted of a jumbo shrimp appetizer, a crab leg meal complete with baked potatoes and veggies and unlimited salad from the very fresh salad bar.  We ate with our crab bibs and took turns taking pictures of each other making literal pigs of ourselves.  It was a great time.

Reflection

We made our way back to our condo, stuffed and tired from the day's events and decided to take our grown up naps.  I fell asleep to the sounds of the ocean purring and rocking me to sleep like a lovely lullaby.  I fell asleep feeling the stress of the city leaving my body and allowing my dreams to finally materialize.  I had felt as though I had not dreamed so vividly in quite some time as I dreamt of living on the beach and being a beach bum.  This was not an unfamiliar dream, but one that had been repressed and all I had really needed was the ocean's sweet music.

Once we awoke we had to pack for our early trip back as we both had to get back to work.  We talked about our property that we had acquired and went over all the literature we had received.  We made advance plans for our return to Heaven and sealed our pact to come back at least once every two years.  I spent my last night out on the balcony reflecting and thought to myself, "I actually was going to turn her down."  I was so happy that I didn't as the night fell and the million stars came out to bid me a fair goodbye and I spoke out loud, "I will see you all again."

Conestoga Steak House

Located at 6313 U S Highway 49, Hattiesburg, MS 39401. Open Tuesday thru Saturday at 5:30pm. From the unique rustic wood exterior of the building to the wait staff dressed in their Liberty overalls with red handkerchiefs, nothing is typical about Conestoga. The menu touts ribeye, sirloin, porterhouse t-bone, steak and shrimp, lobster and shrimp, prime rib, ny strip, etc. However, my favorite is the filet mignon with home-style fries. It literally cuts like cream cheese. The outside of the meat has slightly crusty bite to it, then the center melts away in your mouth. It is always cooked just how I order it. Their fries are freshly circular sliced Idaho potatoes that are fried crisp with a tender center. Of course, I can never finish it all because I have already ordered an appetizer of fried crap claws and indulged in the complimentary beer muffins. Those sweet crumbly bits of beer muffin goodness will be etched in your brain. They are gently sweet, yet have a subtle tartness from the beer flavor. Prices will range from $24.00 for a 8oz filet to $64.00 for steak and lobster. All entries come with beer muffins, salad, and choice of one side. Full bar.

Aymars

Located at 362 Shiloh Firetower Rd Foxworth, MS 39483. Open Thursday thru Saturday- at 5pm. Tip: bring a map! This tiny restaurant is in the middle of nowhere…literally. You might mistake it for someone's storage shed, but do not be fooled by appearances. Inside you will find an eclectic blend of seafood and steak menu items. Every week features a Thursday special and Friday- Saturday special that are not routine menu items. One week you may find a marinated ribeye with mushrooms, the next week may be fried soft shell crabs with crab and butter sauce. On the menu you will find an extensive fish list and steak list. The filet mignon is served with jumbo grilled shrimp in an auju that is so scrumptious you could easily drink. For an appetizer try the crab meat Kristi, eggplant, or crawfish pie. My favorite is the Kristi. Served on a giant clam shell, each bite is filled with lump crab meat surrounded by a creamy sauce of cheese. Each table is lined with freshly made garlic and butter bread crisps. Prices range from $18.00 to $24.00. For dessert be sure to try the Bananas foster or bread pudding. The owner, Aymar Dore', is a native of New Orleans and spend his career behind the stoves of some of New Orleans most exclusive restaurants. FYI: Mr. Dore' claims to be the inventor of bananas foster. I don't know about that, but if he isn't….. he should have been. It is the best this southern gal has ever tasted.

The Steam Room Grille

Located at 5402 I-55 North East Frontage Road Jackson, MS 39211. Open Monday thru Friday for lunch and dinner. Saturday is dinner only. This menu has nothing but certified black angus beef that is aged to perfection right in the restaurant. If you like lobster and steak, the fresh Maine lobster is at your fingertips. Just pick one from the live tank. The menu has a variety of lobster, seafood, and steak dishes. My favorite is the smoked filet covered in mounds of crawfish tails and shrimp, then covered with a cabernet au ju. The side items vegetables are steamed to a perfect tenderness and served with light butter sauce. The freshness and the quality of dishes here is really amazing. Complimentary with each entrée is a steamed batch of sweet garlic cloves and fresh French bread…..mouth watering. Full bar. Prices range from $22.00- $68.00.

Cowboy Jim's

Located at 186 Mississippi 35, Covington County Mississippi. Open Thursday thru Saturday at 4pm. Tip: no credit cards accepted. Atmosphere is spectacular. The bucolic setting is on a waterfront that overlooks a tranquil lake and the Bouie River. Massive live plants line the decks and paths. A live piano, jazz, or country music player churns out soft relaxing tunes. All of the steaks are grilled with a blend of mesquite wood chips over an open fire, producing a one of a kind flavor. Just be sure to save room for the homemade ice cream or strawberry shortcake. Prices range from $14.00 to $20.00.

1. Surf City

   Atlantic City sits on the southern end of the New Jersey coastline. A lot of the ocean side hotels offer beach clubs with bars on the beach and chaises. Catch some sun here on the beautiful beaches . If you want more privacy, drive to the island directly north of the city. This is Brigantine, a long sand spit with the best beaches north of the Caribbean. The sand is like powdered sugar and the water is clean, clear and surprisingly warm.

2. Shop til You Drop

   Why waste that recently one money on more slots or poker. Atlantic City boasts a large outdoor outlet mall (similar to what Las Vegas has). This is a dazzling array of high end and low end stores. You can buy some jeans at Tommy Hilfinger',s a tee at Nautica and a bag at Coach. Take a break and eat at the new fondue restaurant there or at the new Creperie. Theirs is also a Stewarts Root Beer stand for a quick pick me up. There are also the Crafter's Village located in North Atlantic City off North New Hampshire Ave. Here you can buy funky tie dye paint yourself Frisbees and neat old prints of Atlantic City. If you want beachy fun stuff , then head over to the Surf Shop in Brigantine. Here you can buy Brigantine tee shirts, shell anklets and fun seashore themed gewgaws to take home.

3. Pet a Mantra Ray

   The Atlantic City Aquarium, located at the very northernmost tip of the town, has a small tank full of sweet faced cow nosed rays as well as the pink edged Southern Sting rays . There is also one lone small spotted bamboo shark too. For extra fun participate in their lunchtime. A small cup of food (frozen mackerel ) is only a dollar and it's worth it , just to have a ray eat out of your hand. Other cool exhibits are the moray eel , the piranha tank and the living coral reef. For surrealism take a look at the jellyfish floating in a darkened tank There are also some cool things for the kids to do as well , including some brass rubbings and a kind of mini maze involving a yellow submarine. There is a small admission fee.

4. Go on a Foodie Frenzy

   This city has some of the best restaurants and chefs on the East Coast (well second to New York City). You can dine at Harrah's newest import, McCormick and Schmicks. This is an upscale seafood restaurant which has the best of the sea . The town also boasts of Tun's Brewery in the Sheraton which you can go for boutique beers and ales. Head over to North Atlantic City, where you can find The Flying Cloud Café. This is a great New England type of dockside restaurant. The crab cakes are heavenly as are the fish and chips. The Flying Cloud also has a sinful chocolate cake covered with hot fudge, caramel walnuts and chocolate drizzled whipped cream. For burger there's the Back Bay Ale House located near The Flying Cloud (right by the Atlantic City Aquarium)Steak lovers will rejoice because there is a Ruth Chris; Steakhouse and Manhattan's The Old Homestead. Also the best pizza in town is at Harrah's food court in a place called Walt's This is the thinnest crust pizza you'll ever eat.

5. Get Lost in History

   This area is the stuff of legends with New Jersey's greatest one being born in nearby Smithville. This is the birthplace of the Jersey Devil, the mythical dragon like beast that has terrorized the area for 250 years. (legend has it that he was the unwanted cursed child of a Colonial woman and a British soldier). There is also stories of Blackbeard's treasure buried somewhere in one of Brigantine's many bayside inlets. Real history includes one of the skirmishes during the Revolutionary War with the fallen heroes being buried in Smithville's country cemeteries. There is also the town of Smithville, known for its' restaurants and crafts but it also has several original buildings from the 1700's. Atlantic City itself is rich in history with its many tales of rum runners and glamorous robber barons It's also the birthplace of salt water taffy.

The next time you're in Atlantic City gamble on the fun you'll have by not gambling. There is so much to see and do in this town. You won't have any time to hit the slots , or even the poker tables. You'll be too busy exploring Atlantic City's other lures.

So here's my very own version of Boracay Survival Guide:

Transportation

No need to arrange for one. If you are landing in Kalibo, there are a number of vans right outside the airport that will take you directly to the Caticlan Jetty Port. Fare is around P175/pax without boat ride, which I suggest you take because it's a LITTLE cheaper than getting the one that includes the boat ride. And you have to pay some more fees at the port anyway.

I also discourage vacationers from availing of the transfers that most resorts and hotels offer because I think it's unreasonably expensive! If not mistaken, it costs around P650 for a transfer from the Caticlan Jetty Port to hotel when total actual cost is only about P150 or less:

Boat fare = 20.00

Environmental Fees, etc. = 20.00 (or less)

Tricycle Ride from Boracay Is. to hotel = 100.00

There are a lot of tricycles for you to take from the port going to your hotel. There are also multicabs (tiny vans for bigger groups) that go for a higher rate (between P200 and P300).

Do not forget to bring loose change to give to the porters who helped you carry your luggage(s).

Apart from walking, tricycles are the main mode of going around the island, or from one station to the other. Boracay is segmented into three stations:

Station 1 - where most of the bars and clubs are.

Station 2 - the “center” of the island; where most of the restaurants and boutiques are. D'mall is also in Station 2.

Station 3 - where the main market is. D'talipapa (aka flea market) is also in Station 3.

Fare is around P7/pax.

Accommodation

For backpackers or those who are travelling on a budget, Eriko's or Tan's guest house is a good choice. Both guest houses are owned by the same person: Net Sacapaño.

The guest houses are located in station 2, near D'mall. To get there, you may ask the tricycle or multicab driver to drop you off at "Crafts of Boracay", it's a big grocery store that is still part of D'mall. From there, take a one to two minute walk towards the beachfront area. Once you're along the beach walkway…turn left, walk a few steps, and then take another left at Shenna's - there's an alley sandwiched between a small grocery store and a diving shop.

You'll notice a couple of guest houses lining the alley as well, but I've always stayed at Eriko's and Tan's because the price is reasonable - if I remember correctly, I only paid about P1,800/night for an airconditioned unit with kitchen (separated by a sliding glass door). It also comes with cable TV and your own verandah.*

Apart from that, Eriko's/Tan's is very accessible to almost anything. Situated in Station 2, it's in the middle of everything - from flea market to restaurants to bars!

*Note: I was able to negotiate an all-year round 20% discount to readers of this post! Just bring a copy of this article and show it to Net ;-)

Restaurants and Bars

Just some of my recommended establishments:

• Cocomangas - famous for their “still standing after 15” challenge
• Shenna's - cheap tequila shots
• Jonah's - famous for their shakes, located in Station 1
  
• Hey Jude! - best to go here during happy hour as you get a discount on your drinks
  
• Crepes St. Michel's or Crazy Crepes - for dessert
  
• Andok's - known for their roast chicken; cheap but filling meal
  
• Binalot - serves Filipino dishes wrapped in banana leaves; cheap but filling meal
  
• D'Talipapa - you can buy seafood from the wet market and have it cooked in one of the eateries here. Or, simply avail of their meal packages that go for about P100-P150 per head (best for large groups).
  
• Barbecue stands - don't miss the chori (short for chorizo = native sausage) burger!

Water Sports/Activities

Banana boat ride is around P250/pax during peak season. However, you should be able to get it for only P80-P100/pax during low season. Jet Ski rentals are around P2,500 for 30mins during peak and P1,000 during off-peak.

If you want to visit the islets surrounding the island, your best option is to hire a boat. It would set you back by P1,500-P1,800, depending on how many you are. When you do get one, leave early so you have enough time to visit three to four islets. A must-visit is Crystal Cave. It's a huge cave that has a wonderful lagoon inside. It's very hard to get in, as you need to go down some steep slopes and crawl thru a narrow opening. It's slippery and has lots of sharp stones on the ceiling (so watch your head!), but the beauty of the place make it all well worth it! Remember to bring knee pads and helmets if you have any. Otherwise, make sure you have alcohol and band-aid handy…just in case.

As much as I like Puka Beach, because of its very clear and calm water that's best for swimming, I would not recommend for you to include it in this trip. Puka Beach, also a great place to buy pasalubongs from (accessories made out of Puka Shells selling for as low as P10!), is accessible via tricycle. So ask the boatmen to bring you somewhere else instead (e.g. Crocodile Island, Bat Cave, etc.)

Snorkeling is usually included in the itinerary, so bring some biscuits to feed to the fishes. Beware though, boatmen usually charge for the gears separately (around P100 for the goggles and the snorkel). Also, be prepared with some loose change as there's someone going around collecting about P20/pax for “environmental fees”.

Though boatmen usually approach you with flyers (prices included) on hand, always remember to haggle. And make sure that both parties are clear on whatever was agreed upon.

Others

Everything is more expensive in Boracay. If you could, bring staple food like canned goods, instant noodles, and bread. A loaf of Gardenia bread costs around P80 when it's just P35-P40 in Manila.

Toothbrushes are expensive too - I had to learn that the hard way. So do not forget to bring yours (see related article here.)

Anyway, there's a big wet and dry market at D'Talipapa but you would need to catch a tricycle ride going there. So if you don't really need much, you can just walk to the smaller one near Eriko's/Tan's guest house (also one of the reasons why I like to stay here). You can buy staples here like vegetables, meat, poultry and other grocery items. This flea market is in D'mall, near Crafts of Boracay. You would have passed by this one going to Eriko's/Tan's (see item#2 on how to get to the said guest houses).

Water is also very expensive. I suggest you contact Agua Vida (288-3754) to have water delivered to your doorstep. You can use the guest house's landline. What I usually do is rent their 5-gal container with faucet. You pay P500 upfront, but it's actually only P80 per 5-gal water plus P70 for the container rental. So you get P350 back when you return the jug. I really think it's cheaper that way than having to buy a bottle of water (costs P20 minimum) each time.

For pasalubongs (gifts), there are a few establishments in D'Mall where you can get key chains or magnets for P15-P20 a piece. But, I prefer to walk early in the morning along the beach to Station 3. There are a lot of vendors lining up the beach walkway as early as 6AM (i.e. if it's not raining). Women's accessories (earrings, bracelets, etc.) go for as low as P10! Or, you can always take a tricycle ride to D'Talipapa, where you can get native snacks like piyaya or caramelized banana chips with sesame seeds, etc. You can also buy t-shirts here for around P100-P150 a piece.

Just remember to always haggle. If you don't feel that you are getting your money's worth, leave and look in another stall.