Boarding a great sailing ship in port is like taking a giant step back in time.  Life’s tempo changes the moment you set foot on the weathered deck and hear the sheets lightly tapping high in the rigging.  Serenity replaces stress as you listen to the quiet creaking of the wooden giant quiescent in a slightly undulating sea,  – but hoist the mast and point her into the wind, and that serenity becomes instant exhilaration as the mighty ship moves forward and the bow begins to plunge into the oncoming sea. 

That unique experience was familiar to countless sailors when the tall ships ruled the seven seas, –and now it’s yours to share by signing on for a cruise aboard a coastal schooner.

The idea for our trip started at a breakfast discussion with friends at a nearby seaside restaurant.  We all agreed that taking a holiday aboard a cruising schooner would be great fun.  We had heard of the Maine Windjammer Association, and found their website at www.sailmainecoast.com.  After some investigation, we decided a one-week cruise on the “Heritage,” one of the ships in the Windjammer Association’s 12-schooner fleet, would make a perfect holiday.

A few weeks later, we flew to Portland, Maine and rented a car for the two-hour drive to Rockland, the homeport for the Heritage. 

We arrived on Sunday evening, just in time to go aboard.  Ready for our six-day sea adventure, we grabbed our gear and carefully walked down the aluminum gangway to the waiting schooner.  We were greeted by Captain Doug Lee, just  as we threw our gear on deck. 

Life aboard a cruising schooner

After a brief discussion with Captain Doug, we were invited to follow a crewmember below to see our quarters.  We held fast to a shiny brass handrail and descending 15 steep and narrow steps to the cabin deck. 

The Heritage has space for 30 passengers, and a crew of 7.  She is an authentic coastal schooner built with the passenger, rather than the cargo in mind.  Consequently, she is on the high end of the cruising schooner ‘comfort’ scale.

Small round skylights installed in the main deck floor just above each guest cabin provides light in the daytime.  There are small electric lights for night reading.  Converters are available for charging shavers, digital cameras and the like.  Several cabins have bunk beds, others a small double bed.  Only two cabins have toilet facilities.

  

There is enough head-room to stand upright in all the guest quarters, and each cabin has a small hot and cold water sink, and just enough room to store gear for a week of sailing.  There are no TV’s aboard, so it is a good idea to pack a good book or two.

Returning topside, Captain Doug oriented the entire complement of guests on the ship’s safety features, the location of the three passenger heads (toilets), and the site of the ship’s single shower room and cozy galley/dining room with its wood burning stove.

The ship and its masters

The Heritage is the brainchild of the two Captains Doug and Linda Lee.  Already seasoned masters while in their 20’s, the young seagoing couple decided to build their own large cruising schooner from the keel up.  It took one year to plan, and four years to construct their dream. 

Launched with significant fanfare on April 16, 1983 at the historic North End Shipyard in Rockland, Maine, the 95 foot, 165-ton Heritage is the largest coastal schooner in the Maine Windjammer Fleet.

Now in their 50’s, the Lees’ have been sailing the coast of New England for over 30 years.  They are a virtual treasure store of nautical history and marine lore.  They are “sailing legends,” and with their heavy accents, never fail to entertain their guests with whimsical New England jokes, and interesting sea stories.

A roving, a roving, a roving we will go…

 We sailed with the tide early Monday morning.  To get into the spirit of the voyage, the passengers are encouraged to participate in the first hoisting of the mains’l.  Rope in hand, the crew leads in the seagoing pulling chant  “…way haul away, way haul away together, way haul away, way haul away Joe.”  It’s a very big mainsail, and before long everyone has caught on to the rhythm, and is heaving-ho and singing the melodic refrain as the huge gaff works its way up the mast.

By the end of the first day, the crew makes certain that you have a working knowledge of the nomenclature of the various parts of the ship.  From that point on, the crew and the turn-of-the-20th century gas-powered donkey engine takes over the daily tasks of lifting the anchor and hoisting the sails.  However, any passengers wanting to experience the daily rigors of able-bodied seamen are allowed to continue to help the deckhands and galley crew.  Surprisingly, many continued to volunteer for the work.

Sailing the islands of Maine

The ports of call for each cruise are different depending on the prevailing winds and weather – and what events may be taking place along the coast of Maine.  Most weekly cruises cover approximately 125 nautical miles, and all sailing is done in  daylight hours. 

There are some 3,000 rocky islands off the coast of Maine, and each night you are comfortably anchored in a quiet cove near some remote spruce-capped granite island, or in a charming harbor near a seaside village or town. 

 

Access to the islands and ports is always available by ship’s skiff and Captain Doug’s personal 12-foot sailboat that has been in his family for 40 years.

There are photo opportunities at every turn of the helm.  The islands are rich in color, and the sunsets are spectacular.  Lighthouses glisten, and great birds and sea creatures are visible throughout the day.

All hail the queen

We were fortunate to book passage for the week that Maine celebrated its “Windjammer Days” in Boothbay Harbor.  Several hundred small boats jammed the harbor as their occupants came to marvel over the beauty of the many tall ships participating in the annual festivities.

The Heritage, moving into the congested port under billowing sails, was the grand guest, and the high point of the final day. 

Ship’s horns and blaring whistles welcomed her like royalty.  Just as pretty as you please, and without the benefit of power or pilot boat, Captain Doug sailed the mighty schooner into the bustling harbor.  

He approached the ship’s mooring site with sails still aloft, and ordered, “Drop the anchor.”  The Heritage slowly dragged her anchor and chain to a halt with the ship’s stern just 30 yards from the crowded dock and viewing stands. 

 

As the colossal Heritage came to rest, the crowd roared its approval and appreciation of the captain’s amazing display of seamanship in piloting the mighty ship to her place of honor.  Later during a conversation in port, Captain Doug winked and asked, “I was a bit nervous, did it show?”

A unique vacation

A windjammer cruise is much akin to camping.  ‘Luxury’ is not in the wind jamming ‘glossary of terms’.  However, there is ample shelter, and the food is good and plentiful.  Meals are included and are greatly enhanced by homemade bread, and cookies fresh from the wood burning stove. 

Weather permitting, many meals are served buffet style on deck even while under sail – and sometimes enjoyed at a noticeable list to starboard or port. 

The gastronomical highlight of every cruise is the “lobster bake.”  This is an all you can eat lobster and corn-on-the-cob extravaganza prepared by the crew on the beach of one of the islands.

You could get hooked

Doug and Linda boast that over 60% of their annual passengers are returning guests.  Out of the 19 passengers on our voyage, only four of us had not previously sailed on the Heritage.  In fact, several couples had been aboard for more than 10 cruises.  Our fellow guests ranged in age from their mid-30’s, to one couple in their early 80’s.

Who should go?

Vacationers seeking a real-life adventure; sailors of small boats who love the tall ships and are keen to hear the howl of the wind in the gigantic sails – and ordinary landlubbers who are ready for a week full of fun and the occasional thrill of a deck awash in salty brine.

If you are reasonably fit, and want a vacation that is truly out of the ordinary, a windjammer cruise is worth considering.  It is like no other vacation on earth – or sea for that matter.

So, you think the summer fun only shows up when you drag the whole crew down to the beach with a cooler full of beverage and a bottle full of sunscreen. Hold up Spunky, I guess you've never known the thrill of the high-paced excitement waiting for you when you track down the elusive moose of Maine. Look quickly because these wily critters move at least twice as fast as a box turtle and have consistently outrun the three toed sloth to win the gold in the annual the Swamplympics.

You can see, by the dramatic wake left in the path of this specimen, the speed at which they are able to navigate the turbulent waterways of the bog. Yes, if you're bold enough to chase the moose you'd better have a good pair of walking shoes or at least a solid rock to sit on.

Be aware that the moose is not the only member of bog culture to be observed in the Maine woods. Another of the speed demons of swamp life can be seen here rapidly gazing into its own reflection, a feat only to be accomplished by the fastest of waders on the pond.

The exhilaratingly rapid pace of stalking the wild swamp life is only surpassed when one is faced with the events surrounding the highly sought after if not rare rolling in of the fog. Caution: this is not for the faint of heart. This activity has been known to cause increased or decreased heart rate in at least some of the test subjects in our random studies.

Finally for those with the endurance of a marathoner or decathlete, no day could be complete without the frantic demands of sunset in the swamp. You will find this observance of sunset to be accompanied by the demands of a long, deep sigh, aaaahhhhhhh! and followed by an all-encompassing night of undisturbed slumber blanketed by the cool moist environs of Vacationland.

The next time you get a hankerin' to step up the pace of activities on your summer respite don't neglect to take a look at, if you think you can keep up, some time spent in the woods of Maine chasing the wild swamp life.

Island legend says sheep were the islet's first residents, grazing on the island after swimming across the Gut from Southport. The earliest known human settler was someone named David Reed around 1785. Since then, the Island has had a variety of names. In earlier times it was dubbed Pig Island, Tea Cove Island and Grover's Island respectively. The name Grover's Island was given it by Freeman Grover, one of the original owners, who sold it in 1874 for $1,000 to four men from Gardiner, Maine. These men built the island's first hotel (Sidney House) in 1878. The oldest cottages on the island date from 1870.

Sidney House was owned by “Pirate King” John Sidney, who acquired his name from his habit of appropriating goods from homes on Squirrel Island, one of the larger inhabited islands in the Bay and where Sidney once lived. Sidney House burned down between 1890-1900, opening a new chapter in the island's history.

In 1894 the Capitol Island Association, a stock company, was formed by a group of businessmen from Augusta, Gardiner and Richmond, Maine. Their charter granted them the right to buy and sell real estate, maintain the docks, and operate steam boats. The Association intended to purchase all remaining land and sell it off into lots at a

profit. By 1905, 30 cottages had been built; by 1930, the entire seaward side of Capitol was developed.

The island has a unique blend of outdoor activities. There is boating, fishing, a tennis court, a basketball court, and a “casino” which now is a combined community building, canteen, and post office. Enjoy a walk through the small woods in the center of the island and forget anyone is remotely near. More traditional activities include shopping Booth Bay's unique shops, visiting the historic rail museum and village, or any of the many points of historic and scenic interest. If photography is your passion, Maine is the place. The lighting changes throughout the day altering colors and perception. Every direction you look is a picture to capture.

In the morning you awaken to the smell of pine scented forest carried on a cool, gentle breeze, listen to the gulls in the distance, and watch the lobster fishermen as they visit their traps. The smell of salt air alternates with pine scented forest. There are no planes, trains or trucks. The stillness is broken only occasionally by a car lumbering down the island lane at five mph or less, or the lobster boats. In summer, sail boats fill the bay during the day. The Albenegon Inn, a “decidedly old fashioned” New England Bed and Breakfast, occupied a rocky point just beyond the island's narrow neck. It was our favorite place to stay, meet people and soak in the ambiance of the island until it was sold as a private family cottage a few years ago.

In 1906 a room at the The Albenegon Hotel was $14 week; lobster cost 25 cents each. Our friends own a cottage on the south part of the island connected to the north by a narrow neck little more than the width of a one lane road protected by a seawall. Essential services to the island are provided by the community of Southport from April through October. The island is closed the rest of the year.

Further, there is an area for Portland's inhabitants who prefer Portland to be a city of general domesticity.

In conclusion, Portland provides an area of tourist “haunts” and recreational opportunities, as well as another section for its residents.

The city is small and very traditional in its makeup. Residents seem to like it that way. Portland is home to many cultures as well as a city “steeped” in tradition. Within Portland's school system alone, there are thirty-four languages spoken.

You may find Portland on a peninsula, along the states' southern coastal area. The city is approximately two hours from the city of Boston. It may also be accessed by way of Amtrak's Downeaster.

The Old Port Exchange area is where you will find great places to shop and eat. The area is located near the city's harbor.

Portland provides many sites and interesting things to do. Some of the places you will want to visit follow:

The Portland Observatory dates back to 1807. From its upper deck, the visitor is afforded absolutely spectacular views of the city and the water.

If you are a sports fan, you may want to “take in” a baseball game, when in season: the Portland Sea Dogs play at Hadlock Field Ballpark.

Individuals who are inclined to take lengthy “romantic” strolls will want to visit beautiful Two Lights State park. The state park is located in Cape Elizabeth. Here the visitor will find magnificent ocean views and a path adjacent to the ocean where one may stroll. The park's lighthouse was made well-known by the artist Edward Hopper. Hopper is featured along with other Maine painters such as Winslow Homer at the Portland Museum of Art.

If you enjoy sampling a variety of “fun” food, you will not want to miss Portland's Public Market. The market offers fresh fish, cheese, bread plus more. Additionally, you may pick up fresh flowers: take them back to enjoy at your two-day base.

You will also want to visit Portland's Harbor Fish Market: “fresh catch” is served up to "hungry" patrons.

If you enjoy walking try the Eastern Promenade of the Harbor Trail. Here you will find splendid views of the Casco Bay area. The Western Promenade promises a walk through one of the nicest Victorian era neighborhoods in the nation. The neighborhood is located close to Portland's “Victoria Mansion.” The mansion “boasts” a gorgeous skylight made of stained glass.

Moms and Dads vacationing with children will want to check out the Children's Museum of Maine. The museum is interactive and offers many fun activities.

Portland provides a myriad of authentic ethnic cuisines. There are approximately four-hundred restaurants in the compact Portland area.

Clinque Terre is an excellent choice for visitors seeking Italian fare.

If you enjoy an “artsy, funky” dining experience then drop in to Local 188 in Longfellow Square. Here you will find Spanish tapas seasoned in garlic. Local artists present their talents by way of their work. The art graces the walls of the establishment.

Remember to visit The Commissary located in Portland's “Public Market” and Street & Co. found in Old Port. Both “eateries” take advantage of the city's harbor and offer oysters, scallops, swordfish, lobster and other “tasty” fish dishes. You will not be disappointed visiting either location.

Gilbert's Chowder House is a great place to go for soup made from “scratch.” If you like pizza, then you will want to visit the Flatbread Company. The establishment offers pizza that is out of the ordinary. Find them near the Casco Bay Ferry Terminal.

Becky's Diner is a “local's haunt” and is an ideal place to visit for breakfast. Remember to get there early.

Additionally, Portland provides a number of unique places to shop. Saturday, a good many Bostonians “troop” through the streets of Portland-the reason being: the fabulously eclectic shops. Here is a sampling of some of these interesting retailers:

If you are a lady who enjoys fashion, then visit the Amaryllis Clothing Co. The boutique is the perfect place to find “trendy” and creative attire. Abacus provides the shopper with a nice variety of (American) crafts, furniture, and jewelry items.

Take the children to Treehouse Toys. Adults and children alike will enjoy the variety of toys useful for children's learning and playtime enjoyment.

Fibula is known for its elegant offering of rings. Additionally, the establishment showcases other wares crafted by Maine's jewelers.

If you are looking for artisan crafted items, then visit the Maine Potter's Market. The market is a cooperative with the function of selling earthenware as well as ceramics.

Browne Trading Market is the place to go for the individual who is seeking cooking-related items and/or utensils.

Additionally, there are “scads” of antique shops and art galleries. In Portland, you will find the traditional sea-faring relic or painting specific to the region.

Naturally, after a day of shopping there may be some in your “tribe” wishing to check out the Portland nightlife scene. The Center for Cultural Exchange is a perfect place to enjoy a wide range of musical talent. Events range from dance performances to concerts. The Center for Cultural Exchange is dedicated to the international arts.

Secondly, there are performances of the Portland Symphony Orchestra. The symphony plays at the Merrill Auditorium.

And, thirdly, there may be members in your group who prefer the “laid-back” authenticity of a pub. Find it at Portland's Gritty McDuff's where the food is decent and the “brew” is described as “first-rate.”

Another pub, you might consider is Brian Boru. Here you can find a unique blend of Irish Whiskey. Also, you may enjoy the live reggae music.

A more nostalgic environment is featured at Bubbas's Sulky Lounge. The furnishings and surroundings are a “homespun” wonder. There is soda fountain and more.

The Skinny is a great place to mingle and listen to “rock.”

It is suggested to try an ice cream cone at Beal's or perhaps try a delicious latte night cap at Breaking New Ground.

Enjoy your walk on Portland's historic cobbled stone streets.

You will certainly want to consider your lodging when planning your two day weekend “get away” to Portland. Following are some suggestions:

Find the Western Promenade. The neighborhood provides an array of Victorian Homes and Gardens. The Pomegranate Inn offers a “restful” night's sleep amidst a lodging filled with art. Additionally, you will find a delicious breakfast awaiting you the very next morning.

The Percy Inn offers its visitor not only lodging but a historically significant site. The Inn is an 1830's era Federal-style brick row house and is comprised of ten unique and distinct suites. Your suite may be decorated in cottage style or furnished and accessorized more in line with the early 19th century.

The Danforth is an elegant and historic mansion providing cozy romantic guest rooms complete with fireplaces.

Lastly, the Portland Regency Hotel is the preferred place to stay in Old Port. This hotel is a ninety-five room facility and only a few steps away from the harbor.

Remember when planning your trip to Portland, Maine, the local area code is: 207.

The following shops, restaurants, museums, galleries, and places of lodging may be found at the following addresses in Portland, Maine:

Abacus, 44 Exchange Street

Amaryllis Clothing Company, 41 Exchange Street

Browne Trading Market, 262 Commercial Street

Center for Cultural Exchange, One Longfellow Square

Children's Museum of Maine, 142 Free Street

Fibula, 50 Exchange Street

Maine Potter's Market, 376 Fore Street

The Merrill Auditorium, 20 Myrtle Street, City Hall

Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Square

Portland Observatory, 138 Congress Street

Portland Seadogs, www.portlandseadogs.com.

Treehouse Toys, 47 Exchange Street

Two Lights State Park (207) 799-5871

Victoria Mansion 109 Danforth Street

Becky's Diner, 390 Commercial Street

Beal's, 12 Moulton Street

Breaking New Ground, 13 Exchange Street

Brian Boru, 57 Center Street

Bubba's Sulky Lounge, 2 Cottage Road

Clinque Terre, 36 Wharf Street

Commissary, 25 Preble Street

Flatbread Co., 72 Commercial Street

Gilbert's Chowder House, 92 Commercial Street

Gritty McDuff's, 396 Fore Street

Harbor Fish Market, 9 Custom House Wharf

Local 188, 188 State Street

Portland Public Market, 25 Preble Street

The Skinny, 625 Congress Street

Street & Co, 33 Wharf Street

Lodging:

Portland Regency Hotel, 20 Milk Street

Phone: (207) 774-4200

The Danforth, 163 Danforth Street

Phone (207) 879-8755

www.danforthmaine.com.