Floridita, Hemingway's favourite bar in Havana, immortalised in the above line from his novel Islands in the Stream, became the inspiration for another bar nearly a world away - Boadas in Barcelona.

A 1930's atmosphere greets you as you walk in the door of this tiny bar tucked away in La Rambla in Barcelona. It's smoky, it's noisy. And it's entirely authentic. You would only be mildly surprised to bump into Hemingway at the bar. Surprise, surprise - he drank here.

Opened in 1933 by Miguel Boadas, this cocktail bar (cited by many specialised guide books as one of the finest cocktail bars anywhere in the world) remains exactly as it was in the year it was opened. Fitted out in brass and wood, with a curved bar counter and photographs and drawings covering the walls, you can immediately feel that this is the real thing.

Miguel Boadas was born in Havana in 1895 and by 1910 was head barman at the Floridita. He left Cuba to marry in the land of his ancestors, Spain, and after working in different bars, opened his own one at no. 1 Carrer de Tallers, on the corner of La Rambla.

73 years later Boadas is an "institution with cocktail drinkers the world over and the City of Barcelona alike. However, when it was opened , critics (and there were many) gave it a definite thumbs down. "People complained that it was too small, you couldn't sit down, and it was too modern,', says Dolores Boadas (current owner and Miguel's daughter). What's more, only three years after the original opening, the Spanish Civil War broke out! But even these turbulent times couldn't stop Boadas from opening its doors and serving cocktails and today, 73 years later, the bar has been awarded the Traditional City Establishment Award, granted by the Barcelona City Council to only 12 businesses with a long pedigree.

My discovery of Boadas was accidental. Having just celebrated a birthday in Barcelona, and in that birthday-high mood, the kind where you want to squeeze every last drop out of the day - and night - we stumbled upon this gem. Boadas is a bar for the locals and in spite of being just off of La Rambla, doesn't go out of its way to attract tourists.

The cocktail Gods must have known that our little party of two had a celebration going on as miraculously two seats became vacant right at the bar (and in a bar not more than a few square metres big, with standing room mainly, this truly was nothing short of a miracle). Seated in front of three barmen in full tuxedo and one sporting very snappy glasses, we had front row seats to some of the best entertainment in the city.

Ingredients mixed in cocktail pitchers shiny enough to reflect back at you, quick stirs where you are left in no doubt that it is all in the wrist, a julep strainer on top and with long arching motions the contents are poured into a pint glass held a metre or so below. This is done four times, then the drink is strained into your glass. Snazzy…

Not one menu makes itself known in Boadas. The barmen are passionate about cocktails, and Maruendo, Dolores' husband, admits to owning over 600 cocktail books from around the world. It's all in the head (although on a tiny board a cocktail of the day is written in block letters). The birthday boy has an idea in his head. He wants a cocktail that is creamy "with a different taste". I wonder secretly to myself what exactly that is and settle back to enjoy my Margarita. Some concessions should be allowed on birthdays. Within minutes the barman is serving the creamy birthday cocktail with a different taste. It's a frothy mixture with crushed ice and a hint of cinnamon and after one sip, I'm a convert. The barmen invent cocktails along with making the traditional well-known ones, and I'm sure the birthday cocktail has just been born. Another six follow between the two of us after the first one. I'm sure I feel Hemingway nod his approval.

Extremely well-priced at approximately 6 euros a drink, Boadas really is a must-do anytime you find yourself in Barcelona. You'll find yourself in the company of famous 20th century artists; Dali, Picasso, Garcia Márquez - who all had a seat on one of the six chairs at the bar (and stood far more than they sat) and who often left a momento on the walls of one of their favourite watering holes.

Ending the birthday close to 2 in the morning the following day, the birthday boy looks at me and says, "That was grand. We"ll be back'. I'm now certain Hemingway's nodding…

Brick Lane - Food and Bars

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Hidden behind the industrial buzz of Liverpool Street Station is Brick Lane. Ten years ago it was thought to be an area to avoid, but an influx of students and artistic types has made this hidden area into a thriving community, and a great place to pick up one of London's staple dishes, an Indian curry, at a bargain price. The bars here are relaxed and young and in the summer there are plenty of places to sit outside. The area is best known for its curries which are served up at a host of restaurants that line the West end of this infamous street. Bring your bargaining skills and prepare to be approached by eager restaurant owners ready to offer a variety of incentives ranging from free drinks to money off the bill. The legendary Ten Bells pub where Jack the Ripper picked up his victims is just around the corner.

Tube - Liverpool Street

The Historic Coronet Cinema

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Until the recent smoking ban there was a smoking section in this independent cinema. Still very much a part of the London arts scene this cinema is very unique inside and shows films that won't be found in the more commercial cinemas. Students go for half price on a Monday and the deal is extended to all on a Tuesday making it a bargain at £3.50. The cinema has stood on the same site since 1898. Hugh Grant and Julia Roberts filmed a scene here in the film "Notting Hill".

Tube - Notting Hill

Hoxton Square - Food and Bars

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In London's up and coming East End, Hoxton Square brings a European flavour to this thriving neighbourhood. Hidden away from any main roads and with plenty of out door seating there are plenty of bars serving up cocktails and food from all nations. Round the corner from the new Courtyard Theatre and housing London's only female oriented sex shop this square attracts a big after work crowd and is a great place to meet the locals.

Tube - Old Street

The King's Head Theatre

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An institution on the London theatre scene, this fringe venue and pub has hosted a variety of shows and has been the spring board for talented artists including Victoria Wood, Joanna Lumley, Alan Rickman and Tom Stoppard. At the beginning of 2008 this venue announced plans to become a producing theatre and now features a season of home grown work. This theatre has leant particular support to new writers and musical theatre over the years and is a great place to soak up some London arts culture and see some start of the future. The pub also serves great food at lunch and dinner time.

Tube - Angel

Sketch - Café and Restaurant

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The upstairs restaurant at this unusual was at one time said to be London's most expensive restaurant and the downstairs café doesn't go easy on the pocket book either. If you stick to a simple coffee and cake it is worth the expense, if only to visit the bathrooms which are by far the most unusual in London. Tracey Emin regularly displays art in the corridors here. From the staff's hair cuts to the paint splashed stairs this venue screams London style and fashion. It makes a great change from a regular coffee stop and is walking distance from Oxford Street so makes a great rest stop.

Tube - Oxford Circus

Somerset House - Historic Building

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During summer there is a great line up of concerts and festivals in the impressive courtyard of this 16th century palace originally the home of the Duke of Somerset. Last year Amy Winehouse was amoung those to take to the temporary stage. Winter events are just as entertaining with a temporary ice rink set up between October and February. It is worth booking early as the recent craze for ice skating means that weekends are often booked up well in advance. Covent Garden is the nearest tube but it is well worth travelling to Waterloo in order to walk across Waterloo bridge and take in one of the most stunning views in London.

Tube - Covent Garden

Southbank - Walk

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Along from the bustle of the Millennium eye the south bank river walk stretches all the way to Southwark where the Tate Modern and the Globe Theatre dominate the river. There are plenty of pubs and restaurants to stop and rest in as well as a few market style stalls and shops. The view is fantastic and if you feel adventurous there are even routes down to the river bank at low tide where treasures from Victorian England are regularly found. At certain points along the route some of London's famous buskers can be found and a little before London Bridge you can see the new City Hall and the site where David Blaine performed his 44 day endurance and survival stunt in 2003. He suspended himself in a Perspex box without food in order to push himself to his human limits. Not all Londoners took kindly to the stunt and one group even took to cooking hamburgers underneath him in an attempt to taunt him with the smell.

Nearest Tube - Waterloo

Borough Market - Food Market

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Best experienced on a Saturday morning this market is a haven for the senses. Wander from stall to stall and taste the varied offerings. The food is fresh and it is a great place to pick up a sense of London's famous market culture. There are several prized pubs and restaurants around the market itself and the Menier Chocolate Factory theatre, a fringe theatre set in an old chocolate factory is minutes walk away.

Tube - London Bridge

Prince Charles Cinema

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This small theatre is a prized London secret. It is hosts regular singalonga shows where audiences are encouraged to dress up and sing along to their favourite film musicals. Hairspray is the current offering. Ticket prices are notoriously low for central London and members get even better deals with shows from as little as £1.50.

Tube - Leicester Square

Toptable

Not a location as such but a great web site for getting great deals on eating out in London. Featuring deals such as three courses and a glass of wine for £15 it makes dining at some of London's best restaurants a possibility for even those on the tightest of budgets.

Tube - The Internet

London is full of hidden gems. Go out and have a great time finding your own!

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Here again is another museum I visited whilst at secondary school! This museum features all forms of transport from the early 1900s including trains and cars, as well as a ‘Titantic' exhibition. Activities from yesteryear such as spinning, weaving, basket making, lace-making and carpentry among others are on display.

Belfast Zoo

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A must have for animal lovers, and it is being constantly updated. The latest feature to be added is a rainforest exhibit. The zoo is open all year round, everyday of the week, and features over 150 rare species including gorillas, chimps, elephants, giraffes, lions, penguins, and sea lions amongst others.

Old Bushmills Distillery

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Calling all whiskey drinkers, here is your chance to see where and how the famous irish whiskey is produced. Gives demonstrations of all stages of the process and if you are lucky enough you may be able to taste a sample.

Ulster American Folk Park

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This is one of my favourite museums, and I can remember visiting it as a child. It is situated in Omagh and is based on emigration activities which took place in Ireland during the 18th and 19th centuries. There are thatched buildings and American log cabins on view as well as enthusiastic demonstrators who give an insight into what life was like during this period of emigration. Highly recommended!

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

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This is a challenge not for the faint hearted or indeed those scared of heights. The bridge is situated in Ballintoy and when you cross it you are rewarded with picturesque views of Rathlin Island and Scotland.

Giants Causeway

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This is probably one of the most well known sights in N. Ireland and is found on the North Antrim Coast. It was formed 62-65 million years ago, and consists of many stones of different sizes which look like stepping stones. I have visited it many times, but why not go yourself and hear the story of the legendary Finn MacCool.

Other sights I would recommend visiting are:

• Carrickfergus Castle, and Belfast Castle

  Northern Ireland is home to many castles but these are two of my favourites.

• Belleek Pottery Centre

  Visit and see how beautiful these ornaments are.

• Portstewart Strand and Portrush Whiterocks Beach

  This country is home to several glorious beaches and these 2 are the best in my opinion. Visit during the summer months to truly appreciate them!

• Belfast

  The capital of Northern Ireland should most definitely be visited for its shopping, nightlife and entertainment value.

The country provides the adventuresome traveler with hiking trails and the historical fortresses of yesteryear, impressive remnants of the continual influx of the Spanish, French, Austrian and German soldiers.

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Finally in 1867, and after the signing of the Treaty of London, neutrality was restored to the small yet significant country.

The Luxembourg of today is very prosperous with a constitutional monarchy; is part of the European Union, and a tax haven for worldwide investors.

The country possesses a “rich” landscape: with hilly and wooded settings found in the north and fertile vineyards of the Moselle Valley located in the south.

The country's capital is a high powered banking center: quite different from Luxembourg's countryside. The capital is Luxembourg City and may be easily classified as one of Europe's most beautiful capital cities.

The next stop after Luxembourg City should be Vianden. The village of Vianden offers a lovely chateau and many outside activities making it well worth the trip.

Fast Facts about Luxembourg:

The official name is the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. The capital, as noted herein is Luxembourg City. The climate is mild with a considerable amount of precipitation. The Moselle Valley tends to have more sun than the rest of the duchy. Languages spoken are French, German, and Luxembourgian. The government is a constitutional monarchy.

The geography consists of forested highlands in the north and several river valleys.

Luxembourg City is undoubtedly one of Europe's most dramatic capitals. The city towers above the embankment of its medieval fortress, and overlooks two magnificent river valleys. Although it is a center of world-class banking, it is also a very relaxed city.

The city centers around Place d' Armes and plays host to most of the museums and eating establishments.

To reach the museums, Grand Ducal Palace and Boch Casemates walk directly ahead from the tourist office, located in the town hall onto Rue Sigerol.

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Facing the tourist office, turn right down R. Chimay to Blvd. Roosevelt.

Should you like to find a “bite to eat” the area around pl. d'Armes is covered with outdoor terraces and live music. There are fast food options and pricey restaurants.

The restaurant Bacchus located at 32 r. Marche-aux-Herbes, and down the street from the Grand Ducal palace is the place to go for pasta and pizza and is quite popular with locals and travelers. Reservations are recommended at night.

Le Beaujolais, 2a r. des Capucins, next door to the tourist office offers Italian fare with prices that are reasonable.

Giorgio, II r. du Nord, offers vegetarian selections.

Places to Visit:

The Boch Casemates fortress was built during the 10th century and is part of Luxembourg's original castle. The fortress rises above the Alzette River Valley and offers spectacular views (of the Grund and the Clausen.)

The country's stronghold was put out of commission during 1867 when Luxembourg signed an act of neutrality. It was used once again during World War II as a shelter for thirty five thousand people.

The Petrusse Casemates were constructed by the Spaniards in the seventeenth century and later improved upon by the Austrians.

The former site may be accessed at the entrance on r. Sige frol just past the bridge leading to the hostel; the latter historical site is located at: Pl de la Constitution.

The Musee National d Histoire et d Art provides a most eclectic collection chronicling the different European empires that governed the country. (Marche-aux-Poissons at r. Boucherie and Sigefrol.)

The Musee d Histoire de la Ville de Luxembourg reviews the history of the city by way of archived photographs, films and music clips. (Location is 14 r. du St.-Esprit.)

The Grand Ducal Palace built during the period of the Renaissance (in 1574) as a city hall became the official (city) residence of the Grand Duke in the late nineteenth century.

Nearby is the Notre Dame Cathedral constructed in the 1500s. The structure provides architectural features of the Dutch Renaissance and early Baroque styles.

The church houses the tombs of: John the Blind, the King of Bohemia of the fourteenth century; the Count of Luxembourg as well as other members of the Grand Ducal family. (Entrance is at bd. Roosevelt.)

Entertainment:

Free concerts are held almost nightly on the pl. d'Armes.

A younger set is found (across the river) at Scott's Pub, Bisserwee4. Up the street in the Clausen, Pygmalion, located at: 19 r. de la Tour Jacob Clausen, serves up pints Sunday through Thursday from 5:00 p.m. to 1:00 a.m.; Friday and Saturday from 4:00 p.m. to 3:00 a.m.

Excursions from the capital city (Luxembourg City):

Grevenmacher

The Moselle Valley was the discovery of French winemakers as an alternative for the Champagne region and is known for its sparkling and still wines, in example, Riesling and Pinot Gris. Grevenmacher is at the center of the wine culture. You will need to plan your visit with a tour of the Bernard-Massard Winery (r. du Pont), wherein the Champagne process is explained and visitors are provided samples of the product.

One way to reach the site is: from the bus stop, make a left onto r. de Treves; left on r. de la Moselle, and then right on rte. du Vin, then enter the cave through the gate and garden just under the bridge.

A small and striking Jardin des Papillons (Butterfly Garden) lies in the opposite direction on rte. Du Vin.

In order to reach Grevenmacher from Luxembourg City, take the train to Wasserbillig (forty minutes) and the bus to Grevenmacher. From the bus stop, turn left on r. de Treves, left on r. de la Moselle, and stop by the tourist office, 10 rte. Du Vin, at the end of r. de la Moselle.

The Ardennes

The Battle of the Bulge, in 1944, crushed the country into a landscape of mud. Six decades later the Ardennes forest is one of green vegetation with quiet towns, impressive castles, and monuments of the Second World War.

Vianden

The village of Vianden is hidden from sight, tucked away in the dense forest of the Ardennes woods. It is home to one of the most magnificent castles in Western Europe. Wealthy Europeans, on weekend getaways travel Vianden's curvy roads in their antiquated sports cars while backpackers kayak and hike along the Sure River or bike to Diekirch (a fifteen to twenty minute ride) and Echternach (a thirty minute trek.)

The chateau is a mix of Carolingian, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture. The architectural masterpiece is filled with the armor of medieval times; 16th century furniture, and rich tapestries.

During the months of April through may and September through October, the chateau hosts classical concerts on the weekends.

In conclusion, your stopover in the beautiful country of Luxembourg may be one of the best experiences of your trip when traveling in Europe.

In 1850 a gentleman by the name of Fulmuth Kearney made the journey, like so many others, from Ireland, to the United States. One of the huddled masses, he prospered and his line flourished. His great great grand daughter gave birth to a boy, who she named Barack, So it came about that Senator Obama of Illinois may well join the estimated 40% of American presidents who can claim some Irish heritage.

Ever been called a nosy parker? Well the name has its origins in Ireland. Edward Parker (died in 1896) was a gentleman from County Laois. He was a sergeant in the British army, which must have made him popular. What made him unforgettable, however, was the huge tumour he had on the end of his nose. This tumour was so large it extended way below his chin. The soldiers he worked with - generous to a soul - gifted him the name Nosey Parker which lived with him even after death. Even today when people clamour for fame of any kind, it would be a particularly odd person who would wish to be remembered in this way.

There was once a Doctor of Dublin - Jonathan Osborne was his name. His own peculiar claim to fame comes from the fact that he had himself buried in an upright coffin. Many have heard jokes about coffins shaped like a Y, but this is a strange on. It seems on his death in 1864 he did not wish to be at a disadvantage when the Day of Resurrection came. The poor chap had arthritic hips, you see!

Wales may have the longest place name in Europe but Ireland isn't far off! The village of Muckanaghederdauhaulia is located in County Galway. The name means “marsh of the pigs between two seas” - in this case two inlets (but no one could ever accuse the Irish of exaggeration, could they!). Although not the longest name place in the world by along way, it is believed to be the longest name for a port. The shortest, incidentally, is “U” in the Caroline Islands.

The English weren't the only ones prone to a bit of colonialism. Montserrat is often referred to as “The Emerald Isle of The Caribbean” and boasts areas caked Kinsale and Cork. Many of the locals have Irish last names. This was because the island was settled in the seventeenth century by Irish Catholics. Unfortunately, the Irish settlers chose poorly as there was a huge volcanic eruption in 1995 which made a lot of the island uninhabitable and it is only just starting to recover now.

The Irish may not have as rich a heritage of scientific discovery as say, the Scots, but John Tyndall, and Irish scientist, discovered the answer to one of those really irritating questions that almost every child comes up with at some point. The question is, of course, “Why is the sky blue?”. The answer is because the eye is most sensitive to the colors blue and reddy purply stuff, The molecules in our air scatter the bluey molecules quicker than the reddy pruply stuff. So, in the day and without clouds, the sky looks blue as the sun is close to you at the time and reddish in the morning and evening because the light must travel further to get to you and the more of the bluey light has been scattered. Until Tyndall people thought it was because it was dustier in the evening.

It's official! According to the most recent census, there are now more Polish people in Ireland than there are native speakers of the original language of the isle, Gaelic. Obviously the Emerald Isle has a huge plumbing problem that isn't mentioned often!

Although Ireland doesn't necessarily spring to mind when one is asked to name countries at the forefront of gender equality, it certainly holds one record. Mary Robinson was the first female President of Ireland. She was followed, with little fuss, by Mary McAleese. This is the only instance in the world where one female President was replaced by another.

Have the Irish discovered the secret of immortality? The most recent census showed that the population had risen to 4.2 million and the rise was a fifty fifty split between immigration and births. However, the average age of 33, meaning that the Irish as a population did not grow any older between to censuses. They now have a younger population than any of the other states of the European Union.

The best Irish proverb? “A man is incomplete until he marries. Then he is finished.”

PASTIZZI AND QASSATAT

Pastizzi are Malta's favorite snack. They are tasty, diamond-shaped pastry stuffed with ricotta cheese or a green pea mixture. Pastizzi stalls can be found everywhere, and virtually every old-fashioned bar will offer its own, homemade versions. Qassatat are similar to pastizzi but made of a lighter pasty and round in shape. These are eaten any time of the day and are absolutely addictive.

HOBZ BIZ-ZEJT

These are chunks of bread brushed with olive oil and topped with a mixture of roughly chopped tomatoes, onions and herbs. They were traditionally considered a humble snack, akin to Italian crostini, but have acquired a following in recent years and are served now in smart bars and restaurants as appetizers.

MALTESE BREAD

The Maltese make excellent bread. Most villages have at least one bakery, where you pick up delicious hobz (small soft rolls) or ftira (a ring shaped loaf that is similar in texture to Italian ciabatta.) There is nothing like the smell of the fresh, warm Maltese bread. It is said the best bread in the world comes from Malta and I totally agree.

GBEJNIET

These small round cheeselets are made from goat or sheep's milk. There are two common kinds: the plain, which is smooth and creamy, and the peppered version, which is piquant and perfect with the local crusty bread and a slice of tomato.

FENEK

Fenek (rabbit) is the most popular meat in Malta. It is prepared in countless ways, but the most common include rabbit stew made with wine and flavored with herbs, roast rabbit , fried rabbit or a dish of spaghetti with rabbit sauce.

TORTA TAL-LAMPUKI

This fish pie is made with lampuki, a prized local fish that is only available for a short period each year (usually from September to Novemeber). The pie combines the fish with vegetables, walnuts, olives and raisins, and is absolutely delicious.

SOPPA TAL-ARMLA

Maltese cuisine has many delicious soups, including minestra (vegetable soup) and the traditional soppa tal-armla (widow's soup). The name comes from the simple ingredients, which includes potatoes and other vegetables, then a dollop of ricotta cheese or gbejniet cheeselet.

BRAGIIOLI

These are "beef olives" similar to the Italian version. They are made using slices of beef or veal stuffed with a mixture of cheese, ham and herbs. They are then braised gently on the stove or in an oven.

QUABBAJT

This nougat type sweet is made with almonds and honey, and is traditionally eaten at festivals or special events. It is available year-round from stalls and local shops.

MQARET

These are pastry parcels filled with a date mixture and deep fried. They make the perfect snack and are delicious, but fattening. They are available at stalls.

OTHER FOODS THAT SHOULD NOT BE MISSED

• ALJOTTA

   A boiled fish soup with tomatoes and garlic

• ROSS IL-FORN

  A baked rice dish with minced pork, beef, bacon, eggs and ricotta cheese.

• STEWED OCTOPUS

  Octopus in a sauce of onions, tomatoes, olives and capers.

• SWORDFISH IN CAPER SAUCE

  Fried swordfish with a sauce of capers, tomatoes and onions.

• TIMPANA

  A golden brown bakes macaroni dish with minced beef and pork, eggs, cheese, chicken liver and bacon.

DRINKS IN MALTA

There are excellent Maltese wines. The local beer, CISK, is excellent and refreshing. There are also some local ales like Hopleaf Pale and Blue Label Ale, which are very popular. Maltese love tea and coffee. Both are usually served with milk. There are local liqueurs like Anisette, from the aniseed, and Bajtra, made from the prickly pear. The all time favorite drink is KINNIE.

This is a sofa drink, peculiar to Malta, and it is slightly bitter, fizzy and is flavored with orange and herbs. It's an absolute must to try since it's really not available anywhere but in the Maltese island and it is extremely popular. Most people prefer to drink bottled water, since most of the tap water in Malta is produced by a process that converts sea water into drinking water. The bottled water simply tastes better.

Sometime during the 1 st century AD a community of people took refuge from the aggressive barbarian hordes on mainland Italy, seeking safety on the muddy islands of a lagoon, which were to become the City and State of Venice.

These inhospitable islands developed richly over the next few centuries into the romantic, ethereal city of Venice we know today. In spite of the unlikely start, Venice became a powerful nation, and the most prosperous in Europe by the end of the 13 th century. She commanded a mighty navy and her influence was felt across the known world. The city traded exotically and vibrantly with the East and this strongly affected all aspects of the culture, most evident today in the architecture.

Your Visit to Venice

A first visit to Venice can be daunting and some have described it as a "cultural onslaught". There is literally too much beauty and history, so you need to take it slowly in order to capture the special mood of Venice. In fact, a great devotee of this magical city once said that, if possible, you should not attempt to enter any museum, art galley or church on your first, even your second, visit - to allow the senses to prepare for and adjust to the sensational treasure that is Venice.

But this is not practical for most of us, so here are some suggestions to help make your first trip to Venice unforgettable.

Top Tips for Visiting Venice

Take some time to choose a guide book you find easy to navigate. Sometimes its difficult to read up on an unfamiliar destination before you go there, so watching movies set in Venice, or reading novels, poetry, and non-fiction about the city will help you.

Buy a notebook and jot down ideas for your visit that might spring from your reading.

Learn a few basic words of Italian if you don't speak the language. "Good morning", "good evening", "please" and "thank-you" are a good start.

The city has no motorised transport whatsoever: no cars, no trucks, no scooters or motorbikes. To get around you must walk, or take some form of water transport. Enjoy the tranquillity, and the sound of footsteps and lapping water. A comfortable pair of walking shoes is essential.

Travel in mid-season to avoid the heat of summer and the tourist hordes. Take wet weather gear, including umbrella and especially waterproof shoes if you decide on a winter trip.

Marco Polo airport is the most conveniently situated airport for Venice. Take the vaporetto - the public water taxi - from here to St Mark's Square, and enjoy your first view of the magnificent, palace-lined Grand Canal.

Try and stay in a quiet area away from the main tourist attractions in the centre. This will give you a chance to identify and experience Venice's peaceful beauty.

Ask for a map at your hotel and mark the hotel on the map. Then put the map in your pocket and just walk. Yes, you will get lost, among the over 100 islands separated by some 150 canals and joined by about 400 bridges, but not permanently!.

For your evening meal, take advice from the hotel. Ask where the local Venetians eat, and avoid the tourist areas. You will get a better meal at a better price.

Take time to enjoy an evening drink on St Mark's Square, either before or after dinner. Choose the Caffe Florian or the Gran Caffe Quadri, both of which have small orchestras. Relax and observe. This is not a cheap outing, but how often do you get a chance in life to drink an aperatif in "The Drawing Room of Europe" (a description attributed to Napoleon)?

Read your guidebook properly when you get home, and use your notebook to record all your special experiences, plus ideas for your next visit.

Top Sights for your First Visit

Rialto Bridge: Landmark bridge and its and surrounding market

Ca d'Oro: Charming palace on the Grand Canal

Gondola Ride: At sunset, with a bottle of champagne

Clock tower on St Marks Square: See the bronze "moors" strike the hour

St Mark's Basilica: opulently decorated with gold mosaics

Greek Horses: Well over 1000 years old

Accademia: Art museum representing Venetian artists up to the 18 th century

Doges' Palace: Gothic residence of Venice's one time leaders, the Doges.

Buon Viaggio! Have a great first trip to Venice

For most passengers arriving in Le Havre, the shorter the time spent there, the better! Driving off the ferry, many take the road to Paris or Rouen. Honfleur is just a few minutes over the Normandy Bridge. Those on foot, mostly take the train to Paris, which is a two hour journey. Rather pointless for passengers coming over on the ferry from Portsmouth. It is much quicker to fly from the UK, or to take the Eurostar from London. What are the attractions for the cruise passenger coming to Le Havre? Firstly, the town is within walking distance of the Cruise Terminal.

On leaving the terminal keep to the road on the left, which skirts the harbor. You will see on your left in the distance, about a kilometer away the semaphore, pictured below:

Semaphore

Follow the road to this landmark. There are cafes on the way should you need refreshment. The walk should take less than half an hour.

Opposite the semaphore, is the famous Malraux Art Gallery, with a very worthwhile collection of Impressionist paintings. This part of Normandy, was the birthplace of the Impressionist style of painting in the nineteenth century. Never, never forget that Le Havre was, and is, the port of Paris!!!!

Le Havre was painted by Monet, Pissarro, and Dufy. If art is not your cup of tea, and there is a cafe in the museum, press on north, along the coast road, hopefully you will be enjoying some sea air, and not too unpleasant weather. After passing the yacht harbor on your left, you will find on your right, the Tourist Office. A good starting place to explore the town.... In the summer, there is a boat trip around the harbor. For the fit and adventurous, bicycles or tandems can be hired near the tourist office, or on the beach. There are many dedicated cycle paths in the town, along the beach and in the port.

Tandems and Bicycles for Hire Near the Beach

Turning to the north and right at the roundabout from the tourist office in Le Havre, is the Avenue Foch that leads to the heart of the city. Walking on the left of this boulevard will take you past the Square St. Roch. A beautiful English garden with many interesting trees and shrubs around an ornamental lake. The Ginko tree and Gunnera bushes are amongst the many interesting specimens...

Gunnera in the Saint Roch Garden

In the background are willow trees.

Continuing along the Avenue Foch to the end, we find the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall) and the gardens of the Hotel De Ville. The Town Hall is an excellent example of concrete post-war architecture. One of the most famous buildings designed by Auguste Perret. The Town square is the center of the town and the visitor on foot can venture east, along the Boulevard de Strasbourg to the Railway Station, which is close to the University and the indoor Municipal Swimming Pool. To the north are the footpaths and stairs leading to the higher part of the town. There is also access via a Funicular railway, not too far from the Town Hall Square. Heading back west along the Avenue Foch, one returns to the beach and, after turning right, the beach continues for several kilometers. A left turn is of course the road back to the Art Gallery and the Ship Terminals.

I have not forgotten the last alternative, to head south down the Rue de Paris. This was the major shopping street in the past, but two out of town shopping centers have certainly caused a decline. Just after the first road junction you will see the Volcan by the architect Niemeyer on the right, and on the left is one of the old harbors, Bassin du Commerce. By continuing down to the end of the Rue de Paris and then turning left you will be back on the road to the Ferry Port and Cruise Terminal.

An alternative to walking, is to purchase a one day bus ticket, which allows unlimited bus travel for the day. These tickets are bought from the bus driver of the first bus that you board. The office of the bus company is on the east side of the Town Hall square.

Renting a car is easy too, but it is best to book in advance, online. I suspect that the car rental service will meet you at the Cruise or Ferry Terminal. I have rented a car at the terminal on several occasions in the distant past. The important points to note are the conditions for the return of the car after rental. Make very certain that the return of the vehicle does not cause you any inconvenience or additional expense. Check this thoroughly before you enter into the agreement. Buying petrol or diesel at credit card only petrol stations may not be possible with a non-French credit card. It may be difficult to find manned petrol stations in the evening and on Sundays.

Galway City is the capital of the western county that bears the same name. Nestled at the eastern end of Galway Bay it is named after the Gaillimh River which flow through the city into the bay. The main street is appropriately named Shop Street. The pedestrian thoroughfare is a bustling centre of commerce and accommodation. Small hotels and restaurants vie with pub and shops for the visitor's attention. The food, drink, rooms and shopping all come at a reasonable price. If a cheaper night stay is what you are after there are dozens of Bed & Breakfasts just short walks from the town centre. Galway is a great base to explore the western Ireland.

A short boat ride away is the Aran Islands, famed for their woollen sweaters and to the west is rugged and beautiful Conamara. Here you can still find hucaers, púcáns and currachs; wooden framed sailing boat with leather hulls that are still manufactured the same way they were thousands of years ago, though the leather has been replaced with more durable modern materials. On summer Sundays dozens of these bád mór “big boats”, some up to 15 metres long, can be seen scudding across the bays in dozens of local races. Today the prizes are family pride and drinks but in the past it was much more cut throat as the fastest boats gained the best berths for unloading their rich prize of peat turfs transported from bog rich Conamara to the barren Aran Islands as well as Galway and Clare. Further west is the picturesque fishing port of Clifden and to the north Westport, one of the few planned cities in Ireland; the Georgian architecture is outstanding.

To the south of Galway in County Clare is the Burren, over 300 square kilometres of barren limestone landforms. It is roughly circular in shape with a panhandle extending west to the Atlantic. The series of rolling hills look almost like cracked pavement running willy-nilly into the distance. But appearances can be deceptive, as Englishman Edmund Ludlow reported to his Cromwellian masters in the 17th Century:

“It's a country where there is not enough water to drown a man, wood enough to hang one nor earth enough to bury him and yet their cattle are very fat; for the grasses growing in turfs of earth that lie between the rocks is very nourishing.”

The area is unique in that it supports Arctic, Mediterranean and Alpine plants side by side and beneath the surface are charted and uncharted caverns created by water filtering through the porous limestone. Despite it outward camouflage the Burren has been inhabited for over 5000 years. The landscape is dotted with megalithic reminders of its past. History and Pre-History have an unbroken timeline here. There are long barrow, portal tombs, ring forts and Celtic high crosses. The triple ringed fort at Cahercommaun and the Caherconnell Stone Fort are outstanding archaeological sites and Doolin near the coast is a Mecca for cavers and potholers. The Aillwee Caves near Ballyvaughan are also a must see. The caves were discovered by a local farmer who kept the location secret for forty years until the 1970s. Over a kilometre of winding passages lead into the mountains. Hidden in the depths is an underground river complete with waterfall and numerous caverns with dazzling stalactites and stalagmites. It was once the haunt of bears, a species that has long since vanished from Ireland.

On the coast to the west is one of Ireland's most spectacular destinations, the Cliffs of Moher. These magnificent shale and sandstone landmarks stretch for over eight kilometre from Hag Head in the south to just beyond O'Brian's Tower in the north, where the new visitors centre has been built. The centre itself is a marvellous piece of engineering resembling giant Hobbit holes excavated into the rock just inland below the tower. The cliffs rise from 120 metres at Hag Head to over 200 metres at O'Brian's Tower and the view is breathtaking. On a clear day you can see the Aran Islands in Galway Bay and even the hills and valleys of Conamara on the northern shore. With an excellent pair of Nikon binoculars you can keep tabs on the Sunday shenanigans as even the sailing boats with their distinctive red sails are visible.

Heading south you pass Shannon Airport, the west coast entrepot for those flying from the States and Canada and a viable alternative for anyone wanting to see rural Ireland before arriving in the major population centre of Dublin. Not far away is Limerick straddling the Shannon River. This sheltered harbour lies at the inland end of the Shannon Estuary; a body of water that is over five kilometres wide in places and stretches over fifty long before disgorging into the Atlantic. It is no wonder the Vikings, who established a trading port and settlement here in 812 AD, found it attractive. Its maritime linage goes back into the mists of pre-history.

The surrounding area was once teaming in oak forests, the primary material used in the construction of longboats. Maritime excavations is Sweden and Norway have uncovered several 9th Century Viking ships that were partially or completely made of Irish oak. Oak was also the principle construction material for the leather hulled boats mentioned above.

On the Atlantic coast west of Limerick is the town of Dingle sheltering in a triangular shaped bay on the southern side of the peninsular. The harbour is full of multicoloured fishing boat and the old lighthouse on Slayhead stands out like a red and white beacon set against a backdrop of rolling green hills criss-crossed with ancient drystone walls. A few kilometres away is Slea Head, the westernmost point in Europe. On the heights overlooking the Basket Islands a monument extols: “Some lands touch the heart, Dingle touches the soul.”

Across Dingle Bay to the south is the Ring of Kerry. This beautiful and well know peninsular has become over exposed in recent years and the extremely narrow roads and swarms of tourist coaches makes it a chore to do any decent sightseeing. You spend more time watching the road and traffic (yes traffic jams are common on this well trodden tourist route) than the picture postcard landscape.

Travelling along these narrow country roads can be not only be a source of frustration but also a good laugh as well, especially when the tour bus ahead is confronted by a caravan approaching from the opposite direction. The ensuing battle of skills as each driver manoeuvres past with centimetres to spare rivals anything on the Comedy Channel. These innocent picturesque country lanes also hold hidden danger. The green hedges in some cases are merely a thin velvet glove encasing the hidden mail hand of ancient stone walls, which are a feature of rural Ireland, much to the chagrin of unsuspecting tourists saddled with local hire cars who happen to stray off the tarmac.

Don't be disheartened though because just across Kenmare Bay is a peninsular that rivals even the famed Ring of Kerry. It's called The Beara Way. It winds around the Beara Peninsular and is just as spectacular. It is largely untravelled by the regular tourist hoards for two reasons. Its northern sister features prominently in virtually every travel brochure and tourist guide and the total absence of tour coaches and caravans. This is due to the strategic positioning of one farm house at the western end of the Way. The brightly painted building is perched right where the road takes a ninety degree bend and opposite is a large stone wall. The turn is so acute it is impossible for caravans to negotiate and busses haven't got a pagans chance in heaven without serious panel damage. Even the local delivery vans find it a challenge. You may see some that still bear the scars.

The road is as narrow as the Ring of Kerry and in some places narrower but the scenery is spectacular. The forest canopy covers the roadway in dark cathedral arches and tiny side track lead off to lonely stone circles overlooking secret hidden valleys that seem to have remained is stasis for millennia. At every turn you can imagine Green Elves appearing from this mystical landscape bows at the ready to dissuade any unsuspecting interloper. Suddenly the trees give way to coastal vistas of fertile hill and narrow coastal valleys where every centimetre of arable land is cultivated and colourful farmhouses sit on the high ground overlooking fields and sea. At the end of the peninsular is the narrow arrow shaped Dursey Island, its western promontory pointing the way to the nearest landfall, Newfoundland. The island is noted for its unique cable car. It looks like something cobbled together with a Meccano set and fishing line but for the three families who live on the island and those brave enough to take the trip there is a font of holy water on board just to reassure you.

The trip back along the southern side is just as rewarding. This side faces the Atlantic and is rugged and wind swept. In many places the trees permanently lean inland. The coastal hills are largely barren and reminiscent of the Scottish highlands. The salty winds retarding all but the hardiest plants and grasses. A little further east the landscape changes where the coastline is protected by Beara Island and the mountains that straddle the southern side of Bantry Bay. Just to the north crossing the Caha Mountains, which form the backbone of the Beara Peninsular, is the Healey Pass; a worthwhile sidetrack. Built at the height of the famine the 1840s it formed a major link between Kerry to the north and Cork. It is an incredible piece of engineering considering the rubble and stonework for its construction was hewn from the mountain with hand tools. The road uphill passes by the spectacular Hungry Hill Falls, the tallest in Ireland and the hairpins and switchbacks rival those in the Italian Alps. Fortunately there are passing bays at regular intervals as the road is only wide enough for traffic in one direction. The trip back down is like a rollercoaster ride and just prey that there is no traffic heading uphill to spoil the thrill. The busy port town of Adrigole sits at the southern end of the road and from here you head east through the oak forests of Glengarriff to Bantry which marks the end of the Beara Way.

The city of Bantry has been blessed by the gods both Celtic and Christian. Encircled by mountains and bordered by the sea it has some of the most breathtaking scenery in Ireland. The vegetation is lush with palms and tropical flowers. The Gulf Stream literally beats a path to its front door. The mountain sides abound in cascading streams, hillside pastures, lakes and woodlands where megalithic monuments and monastic ruins are strewn like pebbles on the ground. The town is one of the most colourful in the country and was once traversed by Venetian style waterways. Stroll along the promenade through the centre of town past brightly decorated houses and shop or walk along the seafront and rest at one of the many view point. Dine at one of the many restaurants and sample the local produce or just relax in one of the Pubs or outdoor Cafes. This place exudes friendliness and charm.

Now that you are rested and refreshed the south coast awaits. The Mizen Peninsular stretches its way to the most south westerly point in Ireland. Along the way you pass through a landscape of outstanding scenic beauty. The journey begins at Ballydehob where there has been settlement since before the Bronze Age. Megaliths abound nearby and copper and gold were mined at nearby Mount Gabriel over 4000 years ago. The town is a patchwork of colourful gables, housing antique shop, craft galleries and bookshop along with many excellent bars, restaurants and cafes. In recent times it has become a centre of the Arts with many artists, sculptors, writers and craftspeople living in the vicinity.

Along the way you pass through isolated country villages and sleepy sea side ports like Schull, the departure for the local islands and Goleen with its secret harbour, Heron Cove. A narrow winding street in the middle of town leads to a tranquil retreat where the images of blue and white boats are reflected like a shimmering mirror in the stillness of the evening ebb tide. Eight kilometres further on is the penultimate destination of our trip, Mizen Head. From the visitor's centre car park, perched atop a precipice that drops into the Atlantic you take a path that lead to “the ninety nine steps” that wind down the cliff face to the award winning Maritime Museum housed in the Mizen Head Signal Station. On the way down you'll pass static displays that capture the spirit of its maritime history; code flags, a huge propeller of an ill-fated ship and the earliest signal antennae. This was after all where Marconi came to trial the first radio transmissions to America. The biggest surprise waits at the bottom of the pathway for the headland is actually an island sundered from the mainland by a deep abyss that conjures up visions from the dim recesses of ones mind, especially in the late afternoon when the shadowy gap is dark and brooding with the thunderous roar of crashing waves. But fear not there are no monsters to challenge you passing across the narrow arched bridge, which is encased in protective barriers. Just keep moving and don't look down. The Museum is an experience not to be missed. It includes historic as well as environmental exhibits along with displays on lighthouse construction, sea life, underwater wrecks, the fastnet race, keeper's kitchen and bedroom, map and archive room and audiovisual displays. The Mizen Light was once know as the “Light at the End of the World”

Our final destination is Crookhaven, which lies midway between Goleen and Mizen Head. This sheltered harbour gets it name from its narrow U-shape. It holds a special place in Ireland's national psyche for it was once the last port of call for ships heading for America. It was major port for Trans-Atlantic shipping where it was said one could walk across the harbour on the decks of boats. The present day Crookhaven with less than thirty permanent residents is a far cry from the halcyon days of the late 19th century when the population was around 700.

A lilting Irish melody from 0'Sullivans Bar on the quayside drifts on the warm evening breeze; a poignant reminder of the past. This was the last vision of the Erin Shore that most of those who were forced through circumstance to abandon Ireland for a new and uncertain life in America would ever see. The last time they would gaze upon those colourful streets, bustling ports, wooded hills, verdant glens, cool clear mountain stream and stone lined fields. A deeply religious people banished from their earthly paradise. They sailed away beyond the deep waters of Crookhaven, past the brooding heights of Mizen Head guided by the solitary sentinel of Fastnet Rock; a jagged spire wrought by wind and wave just beyond sight of land. It is forever know as the “Teardrop of Ireland”, the last sight of home. Like elves with bittersweet memories of Middle Earth as they sailed into the west forever.

Ireland has reinvented itself, which is not surprising given that it gave birth to civilisation in Europe. Irish was the first written European language at a time when Britain and the rest of the Continent had descended into darkness. Ireland remained a solitary beacon of civilisation and eventually sparked the revival that led to the Europe we see today; a fact that those of us with an Anglo-centric upbringing have remained oblivious to. Ireland has once again become an economic “Wunderkind” of Europe. It is comforting to know that it has not come at the expense of all that is green and good in the world.

El Golfet Beach

Racing over land in the twilight hours, the first glimpse of daybreak clutches the curve of the earth and lethargically spreads, causing the waning moon to vanish behind a sheet of light. Heading north from our Andalucian home, we push past misty plateaus of row upon row of bare almond trees which just months earlier had burst with blossom and life. The early morning December chill blows across the jagged peaks, lit up with candyfloss shades of pastel, as nighttime eventually gives way to dawn. Leaving the whispering presence of the mountains of Andalucia behind, daylight is met with the less interesting coastal shelf of Valencia, swamped in concrete and cranes.

There is not just one Spain but many. The regions are distinct in culture and landscape. Catalonia is probably the most defined, proudly retaining an identity that borrows little from the rest of Spain. Instead, many parts of Catalonia remind me of Sussex, fertile, lush and affluent. As you cross its border you can sense a difference; an air of confidence and prosperity hangs over the rolling hills. It is the Costa Brava, which is our destination and for me is the most resonant of Sussex.

The Costa Brava is often snubbed, dismissed by many who believe it to be a brash stretch of multi-story concrete and English breakfasts. Although this was one of the first stretches of Spanish coast to be developed by mass tourism, the Costa Brava boasts many traditional fishing villages, encompassed by impenetrable forests of Mediterranean pine trees, sporadic clusters of wild flowers arbitrarily sprouting colour amongst the evergreen, rugged cliffs cascading down to rocky coves and coarse sandy beaches licked by crystal clear waters. In short, the “brave coast” is an oasis of rural tranquility and the vulgar “package-holiday” resorts it has become somewhat synonymous with are in a minority. Typical of this oasis are three of the most exquisite villages on the Costa Brava. Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc and Tamariu and fortunately because of my partner's parents owning an apartment in Calella de Palafrugell we are able to visit regularly, allowing us to break up the 2,500 kilometer drive from Granada to Cheshire.

Having spent time in Calella de Palafrugell in each season of the year, early December is perhaps the most perfect time to experience the serenity and magnetism of the place. Blessed with blue skies, our walk to the utopia cove known as El Golfet beach on the southern side of Calella de Palafrugell was met only by a young Catalan, carelessly ambling across the empty white sands behind a dog excitedly exploring every rocky inlet and protruding pool.

Without any true coastal road, the winding coastal path that traverses from El Golfet to Calella's equally charming neighbouring town, Llafranc, is made from natural local resources, in keeping with the surroundings. The path steeply ascends pretty stone steps and descends around a string of coves with well-maintained mallorquinas (traditional fishing boats) orderly moored on the beaches. The whitewashed archways line the beachfront, bowing over the many elegant boutiques, bars and restaurants. In contrast to the simple white pueblo, the hillsides behind, stand rich and elaborate villas of rose, yellow and stone with impressive turrets and vibrant gardens, fringed by tropical cacti. Hundreds of tasteful terraces create magnificent vistas of the Mediterranean Sea and vertical, rocky cliffs of shimmering eucalyptus.

Ivy creeps up the walls of the flower-banked apartments, many of which belong to affluent Catalans who escape here for the weekend. Nests of green are repeated in endless variations with neatly pruned privet hedges resonant of an English country garden. It is the well thought out, subtle architecture and the dependence on gardening and trees, which enhances the nature and beauty of Calella de Palafrugell. High above the secluded bay of El Golfet are the Jardins de Cap Roig, a cliff top botanical garden displaying a wide variety of plants and trees indigenous to the Mediterranean, alongside species from all over the world. The gardens were started in 1927 by an exiled colonel from the Tsar's army and his aristocrat English wife.

Calella de Palafrugell

Development in this part of Spain has been low-key and low-rise, escaping mass tourism. By complete coincidence both my family and my partner's family visited Palafrugell and its surrounding areas many years ago. Because my grandfather worked for Transfesa, a Spanish exporting company, he brought my father on holiday to Tamariu in the 1950s. My partner's parents also came here in the 1960s, and fell in love with the place so much that they bought an apartment in Calella de Palafrugell thirty years later. On a recent visit to the area my Dad remarked how little had changed especially in Tamariu. Tamariu, whose name comes from the presence of many tamarind trees along the promenade, is a tiny fishing village and a secluded bay, emerging from a clearing of trees, north of Llafranc. The only real change my Dad noticed was the dual carriageway from Palafrugell to Calella de Palafrugell, which in the 1950s was a dirt track full of donkey carts. Even so, the dual carriageway is in harmony with the area, lined with trees and well-maintained gardens neatly trimmed in the central reservation.

With the snow-capped Pyrenees dazzling in the distance, the journey out of Calalla towards Palafrugell is stunning. The town of Palafrugell, four kilometers inland from Calella, does not quite have the elegance and grace of the coastal resort, but does possess character, maintaining a cluster of old streets and shops around its sixteenth century church. The town's famous son is the prolific Catalan writer Joseph Pla, who was one of the most popular Catalan writers of the twentieth century.

What I really like about this area are the hectares upon hectares of peaceful paths and trials through wild flower meadows and shady dense woods, set back in the forested outback. These networks of paths connect between the coastal villages and inland towns and are ideal for walking, cycling and horse riding. We often take the bikes the scenic route to get to Palafrugell and Palamos without using the car, but be warned it is very easy to get lost.

Llafranc

Palamos is a major port with one of the last remaining fishing fleets on this part of the Mediterranean coast, situated south of Calella de Palafrugell. Originally founded in 1277, Palamos has seen a rapid growth of tourism but its architecture has remained relatively unchanged. With plenty of good bars and restaurants surrounding the old port, Palamos has ample character and is well worth a visit.

Many Spaniards often talk of “Las Espanas”. Spain would not be the same without the distinct regionalism it proudly possesses, and each region providing different and fascinating landscapes. Having lived in Andalucia for four years, I have visited a lot of Spain. I love the vastness of the mountains and the gulch-like desert landscapes of Andalucia, but I have not come across any quite as beautiful a coastline as that of the Costa Brava.

However, it is unlikely that a place can possess the up-market affluence of Sussex, without the prices to match. House prices in Catalonia are high, being closer to those of England than other parts of Spain. A two-bedroom apartment in Calella de Palafrugell will set you back at least 300,000 Euros, for which you could own a four-bedroom villa in parts of Andalucia, a traditionally cheaper region of Spain. In all honesty, we would have relocated to the Costa Brava four years ago if we had been able to afford it. Having said that, it would be now hard to give up our six-bedroom Andalucian farmhouse for a pokey two-bedroom apartment, regardless on how stunning the vista may be.

This prosperity Catalonia possesses is a relic of the early industrial era when the region developed far more quickly than the rest of Spain. As the Catalans want to retain their independence, the Costa Brava preserves villages and towns unique and individual on a rolling coastline of immense natural beauty. Impeached by many as mass commercialism and vulgar, the real Costa Brava is a potency of charm without any pretension.

Twilight was approaching as we stopped at the harbour at Palamos. The evening was hazy and fuchsia-coloured, as delicate hues of purple slowly ran across the sea and sky, melting together like oil. The lights of the boats docked in the harbour winked back at the neon lights of Palamos, preparing for another evening's activity. We were reluctant to leave this captivating scene, but as the final hints of colour were replaced by blackness, we continued our long journey north.

Twilight at Palamos