No-one with the slightest regard for old buildings can fail to be impressed by the English town of Ludlow, south Shropshire. To walk its narrow streets is to step back through the centuries, past timber-framed shops, elegant rows of Georgian houses, a stunning church of cathedral proportions and a castle forming a beautiful backdrop to the River Teme.
The town was founded in the late 11th century when the castle was begun, one of many along the border between the Normans' new English territory and the rebellious Welsh. The name Ludlow, first appearing as "Ludelaue", is derived from the Anglo-Saxon meaning "hill beside the rapids" - the hill being that on which stands the castle, and the rapids being those of the adjacent river.
Ludlow became prosperous as a wool market town in the 13th century. Several water-powered wool mills were built along the river. The town grew with its increasing wealth; the church was begun in 1199 and the town walls, a mile in circumference, were built between 1233 and 1304. One of seven gateways survives, the Broadgate at the lower end of Broad Street - regarded by some as the most beautiful street in England, despite the perpetual infestation of parked cars.
The town's main quality lies in the sheer diversity of its buildings. Mediaeval timber-framed edifices are found throughout, and Tudor hotels stand near Georgian masterpieces. Strangely, perhaps, nowhere does this apparently random mixture of architectural styles look odd. Indeed, several different periods may be represented in one building, as in Brand House. Ludlow is truly a town where every prospect pleases.
Even a short walk will provide a visitor with some memorable sights. The ascent of Corve Street brings the famous Feathers Hotel into view, with its wealth of leaded glass and carved timbers. Turn right into King Street and The Corner Shop appears. The blandness of the name belies the impressiveness of the building; it is both massive and graceful with its twin gables, dragon beams and bull-nosed joists.
A few paces further on is the Butter Cross, built in 1743 to a design by William Baker. The graceful symmetry of its appearance from Broad Street is exquisite, and the cupola-surmounted clock tower lends an additional touch of elegance. Something of a contrast is provided by Harp Lane, leading off to Market Square. The central gutter and overhanging upper storeys give a vivid impression of mediaeval Ludlow, yet the relatively stark appearance of this narrowest of thoroughfares is not without charm.
Despite the ubiquitous motor vehicles (happily reduced since the opening of the desperately-needed bypass) it is easy indeed to wander the streets and lose oneself in the past. The wool merchants hurrying around Quality Square; the hustle and bustle of the "beast market" in the Bull Ring; the unspeakable smell from the tannery near the river; the noisy rhythms of the cobblers' hammers; and the various cries of the street hawkers and market traders - all are so easily liberated from the mind's time capsule.
The town's most visited attractions must be the castle and the parish church of St Laurence. The former, though in ruins, is still imposing, with its superb views from the keep. The latter fittingly dominates all photographs taken of Ludlow from a distance, with its tower soaring majestically 135 feet above the streets. The church conveys an impression of dignified grandeur, in keeping with the town's prosperity in the fifteenth century when the chancel and nave were rebuilt in the perpendicular style.
One of St Laurence's best-known features is the set of misericords which adorn the stalls. These figures, mostly carved in the mid-15th century, include heraldic emblems, royal images and a variety of whimsical scenes such as two boys mocking a lady wearing an ornate head-dress.
Visitors who can eventually bring themselves to leave Ludlow will soon discover that it makes an ideal base for exploring south Shropshire and the Welsh borderlands. Fifteen miles north is Church Stretton, a gateway to some of the most beautiful hill country in England, while ten miles west is Knighton, roughly the mid-point of Offa's Dyke Path and a fascinating little town. Near Craven Arms can be found Acton Scott Working Farm Museum and Stokesay Castle, one of the most impressive fortified manor houses in the country.
For the culture lover, Ludlow hosts the annual Arts Festival from late June to mid-July. Concerts, ranging from folk to jazz, take place at several venues and there are lectures and exhibitions. The highlight is provided by a Shakespeare play performed alfresco in the castle grounds - an unforgettable experience for any visitor.
