Heading south you pass Shannon Airport, the west coast entrepot for those flying from the States and Canada and a viable alternative for anyone wanting to see rural Ireland before arriving in the major population centre of Dublin. Not far away is Limerick straddling the Shannon River. This sheltered harbour lies at the inland end of the Shannon Estuary; a body of water that is over five kilometres wide in places and stretches over fifty long before disgorging into the Atlantic. It is no wonder the Vikings, who established a trading port and settlement here in 812 AD, found it attractive. Its maritime linage goes back into the mists of pre-history.
The surrounding area was once teaming in oak forests, the primary material used in the construction of longboats. Maritime excavations is Sweden and Norway have uncovered several 9th Century Viking ships that were partially or completely made of Irish oak. Oak was also the principle construction material for the leather hulled boats mentioned above.
On the Atlantic coast west of Limerick is the town of Dingle sheltering in a triangular shaped bay on the southern side of the peninsular. The harbour is full of multicoloured fishing boat and the old lighthouse on Slayhead stands out like a red and white beacon set against a backdrop of rolling green hills criss-crossed with ancient drystone walls. A few kilometres away is Slea Head, the westernmost point in Europe. On the heights overlooking the Basket Islands a monument extols: “Some lands touch the heart, Dingle touches the soul.”
Across Dingle Bay to the south is the Ring of Kerry. This beautiful and well know peninsular has become over exposed in recent years and the extremely narrow roads and swarms of tourist coaches makes it a chore to do any decent sightseeing. You spend more time watching the road and traffic (yes traffic jams are common on this well trodden tourist route) than the picture postcard landscape.
Travelling along these narrow country roads can be not only be a source of frustration but also a good laugh as well, especially when the tour bus ahead is confronted by a caravan approaching from the opposite direction. The ensuing battle of skills as each driver manoeuvres past with centimetres to spare rivals anything on the Comedy Channel. These innocent picturesque country lanes also hold hidden danger. The green hedges in some cases are merely a thin velvet glove encasing the hidden mail hand of ancient stone walls, which are a feature of rural Ireland, much to the chagrin of unsuspecting tourists saddled with local hire cars who happen to stray off the tarmac.
Don't be disheartened though because just across Kenmare Bay is a peninsular that rivals even the famed Ring of Kerry. It's called The Beara Way. It winds around the Beara Peninsular and is just as spectacular. It is largely untravelled by the regular tourist hoards for two reasons. Its northern sister features prominently in virtually every travel brochure and tourist guide and the total absence of tour coaches and caravans. This is due to the strategic positioning of one farm house at the western end of the Way. The brightly painted building is perched right where the road takes a ninety degree bend and opposite is a large stone wall. The turn is so acute it is impossible for caravans to negotiate and busses haven't got a pagans chance in heaven without serious panel damage. Even the local delivery vans find it a challenge. You may see some that still bear the scars.
The road is as narrow as the Ring of Kerry and in some places narrower but the scenery is spectacular. The forest canopy covers the roadway in dark cathedral arches and tiny side track lead off to lonely stone circles overlooking secret hidden valleys that seem to have remained is stasis for millennia. At every turn you can imagine Green Elves appearing from this mystical landscape bows at the ready to dissuade any unsuspecting interloper. Suddenly the trees give way to coastal vistas of fertile hill and narrow coastal valleys where every centimetre of arable land is cultivated and colourful farmhouses sit on the high ground overlooking fields and sea. At the end of the peninsular is the narrow arrow shaped Dursey Island, its western promontory pointing the way to the nearest landfall, Newfoundland. The island is noted for its unique cable car. It looks like something cobbled together with a Meccano set and fishing line but for the three families who live on the island and those brave enough to take the trip there is a font of holy water on board just to reassure you.
The trip back along the southern side is just as rewarding. This side faces the Atlantic and is rugged and wind swept. In many places the trees permanently lean inland. The coastal hills are largely barren and reminiscent of the Scottish highlands. The salty winds retarding all but the hardiest plants and grasses. A little further east the landscape changes where the coastline is protected by Beara Island and the mountains that straddle the southern side of Bantry Bay. Just to the north crossing the Caha Mountains, which form the backbone of the Beara Peninsular, is the Healey Pass; a worthwhile sidetrack. Built at the height of the famine the 1840s it formed a major link between Kerry to the north and Cork. It is an incredible piece of engineering considering the rubble and stonework for its construction was hewn from the mountain with hand tools. The road uphill passes by the spectacular Hungry Hill Falls, the tallest in Ireland and the hairpins and switchbacks rival those in the Italian Alps. Fortunately there are passing bays at regular intervals as the road is only wide enough for traffic in one direction. The trip back down is like a rollercoaster ride and just prey that there is no traffic heading uphill to spoil the thrill. The busy port town of Adrigole sits at the southern end of the road and from here you head east through the oak forests of Glengarriff to Bantry which marks the end of the Beara Way.
