The Ghost Towns of Samar

Samar is considered as one of the most depressed provinces in the Philippines. Because of this tag, some people would actually think that people in Samar are malnourished and have nothing to eat so visitors of the island would be surprised that they could not find any group of people with big bellies or are too thin because of malnutrition. Some would actually agree that Samar is one untouched paradise with it's lush vegetation, white endless beaches, enchanting inland bodies of water and most importantly, friendly people. There are just too many spots for the tourist to explore.

But there is trouble in paradise.

Insurgency issues

Since the late 70's, there is a popular revolt led by the New People's Army, the armed wing of the Communist Party of the Philippines and they are operating in the countryside, including the hinterlands of Samar. The lush vegetation and difficult terrain became a perfect hideout of the armed group. Their issues are very simple: equal opportunities, land for the landless and genuine economic programs for the poor. The government's counter-insurgency programs led to the military presence in the countryside. Anyone that the military suspect of sympathizing with the rebels is “invited” to the military camps and is subjected to different kinds of torture. Several disappeared for several days: one would be lucky if they would see their family member's body; others are buried in unmarked graves and would be discovered several years after. This phenomenon continued even up to the day in some parts of Samar.

Re-orienting a local by a local

My very first job after college was for the research arm of my Alma Mater. I was able to visit several parts the region documenting extant traditional practices, poetry, music, food literature and other local lore. Because of this job, I was able to meet people from all walks of life. I did on-site interviews and documentation, which require me to experience the local life. It was not strange for me because their practices were similar to my own. I was a local studying the local.

Of the many places that I went to Calbiga in Western Samar and Catubig in Northern Samar were two of the most memorable. These towns were two of the seedbed of insurgencies during the height of NPA revolt. My teammates and I had to go through different security checks before we could go to the research sites: it was necessary so that we would not be mistaken as sympathizers of the rebel group. In one instance, the Barangay Secretary did not entertain us even if we presented a letter from the town Mayor that we were researchers. The villagers were alarmed upon seeing our huge backpacks because they thought those were firearms. Thankfully, the Barangay Chairman arrived and explained the purpose of our visit to the villagers so we proceeded with our interviews. In another instance, our baggage was secretly checked by the military while we were out doing our interviews.

Desaparecidos

Mana Torya along with her husband was one of my respondents in Barangay Pedro Rebadulla, Catubig Northern Samar. The village is located a whole day hike on foot away from the town proper that even the town Mayor admits that he have not been to the place ever since. The Barangay Secretary who happens to be at the town when we were asking for potential research sites at the Municipal Planning and Development Council Office accompanied us. One of our criteria of selecting a research site was its being “untouched” by modern influences so we would be able to document their traditional practices.

Mana Torya was 75 years old while her husband was about a year older during the interview in their house. Their house was situated on a hill under the canopy of a giant pili nut and surrounded by coconut trees. She had this characteristic gait and quick countenance that is surprising with her age. She had a wealth of information about local custom and music. Once we started the interview, she talked endlessly and was very vocal about her appreciation of our visit. To this day, her alto singing voice still ring on my head while she sing of folk songs about life in the barrio, flirting lasses and even the joys of farming. Her husband was quite during the interview except when he would supply the needed information that Mana Torya forgets. Both Mana Torya and her husband have lucid memories so it was a joy to have them as respondents. After the formal interview, the couple's grandchild, a teenage boy who became their companion since the mother left with another man, served us with boiled cassava and young corn. I asked for the father. Mana Torya's cheerful face abruptly changed with the question.