The outrageously translucent turquoise water lightly massages the soft sparkling sand as it moves languidly back and forth. I stand in a sort of hypnotic reverie as I listen to the gentle "swish" of each small wave before it dissolves into the sand. My heart flutters when the sound of a bellbird, mimicking an angel singing, is carried on the still air. I'm distracted by a disturbance on the water's surface a few feet away. I turn and smile at a dolphin as he pops his head up to see me. I now inhale the sweet scent of the dense bush. I hold my breath while the aroma invigorates my senses. I look up transfixed, staring at the sky. It's a magnificent canvas painted by God. I marvel at the red streaks merging with the deep blue of space. I feel in harmony with everything as the sun retires for another day in this place of wonder and magic. I'm left in a silence that speaks to the deepest part of me. I love being here.
When the great English explorer and navigator, James Cook sailed into the beauty of a tranquil bay at the northern tip of New Zealand's South Island in 1770, his description of the place suggested he'd reached Paradise. Shortly after dropping anchor in the calm, clear water of the small bay, his ship was surrounded by curious dolphins and penguins. His crew feasted on a staggering variety of fish that abounded there. Cook revisited this magic retreat five times until his last visit in 1777. Astonishing as it may seem, Ship Cove is the same today. It is part of a network of drowned valleys containing 4000km of sounds, islands and peninsulas.
The Marlborough Sounds continue to weave magic on the modern day visitor, with the sheer beauty of its steep, wooded hills and small quiet bays. It's a sparsely populated area with many of the small settlements and isolated houses only accessible by boat. This truly is an unspoiled destination waiting to be discovered by the overseas tourist.
It's a clear, sunny day with the odd cloud standing out with digital clarity against the deep blue only seen in skies this far south. I amble along the main street of Picton, the main port in the area. The salty tang in the air mingles with the freshness of the air itself. It makes me feel alive and content. This little town has a population of four thousand, and lies at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound. It was created by European sealers in the 1840's, and is the terminus for the South Island's main railway and road systems. It is also the port for the inter island ferry. (It's a three hour voyage across Cook Strait to the North Island and the capital, Wellington). I watch the Kaitaki, the largest of the three ships currently on the inter island service, as its white bulk glides up to the terminal. I don't stop to see the 600 cars and 1600 passengers disembark. I prefer to remain in the moment and to savour the special atmosphere this part of New Zealand offers. Most of the traffic from the ship will head south, without lingering, to explore the world famous scenic attractions the South Island has to offer. I can't understand why the Marlborough Sounds, are not part of this tourist circuit. It might be something to do with New Zealanders being spoilt with the number of magic places they can visit.
I hop into a car and drive the short distance around to Kenepuru Sound. The road along the finger of land separating it from Queen Charlotte Sound, offers a series of lookouts. I look across the sparkling water to the densely wooded peninsula that separates me from Pelorus Sound, the third waterway in the Marlborough Sounds.
Fur seals are common in this network of bays, and it's also possible to see magnificent orca whales. Here in these beautiful stretches of water, pods of dusky, bottlenose and occasionally, the rare Hectors dolphins accompany the boats that use the sounds for recreation. Groupings can consist of as many as five hundred. To be in the company of these friendly mammals is to experience one of the true delights of being a human lucky enough to visit this truly amazing world.
Pelorus Jack was a dolphin who made this area his home. In 1904, he became the first "fish" in the world to be protected by law. This remarkable dolphin became famous as a "guide" in French Pass, an unpredictable stretch of water at the approaches to the Marlborough Sounds. He escorted ships through these treacherous waters from 1888 until he disappeared in April 1912. He was fond of steamers, and crews would wait for him to appear before sailing through the pass. His loss caused an outpouring of grief throughout New Zealand. I can remember as a kid, having a picture book with drawings of this little dolphin enjoying the attention swimmers gave him. I didn't believe the story was true. How could a "fish" do all those amazing things?
