For hundreds of years this island was the heart of the Spice Islands, Visited by merchants, kings, philosophers and travelers. The Portuguese, Dutch, English, and even the Japanese made a go at grabbing some or all of it and not letting go. Sixty years ago the inhabitants thankfully got it back and went back to being purely Javanese.
By this time Bali got named “The Island of the Gods” and became one of world's foremost holiday and bumming locations. Packed with expensive hotels and villas, fairly good art but mainly kitsch and cries of “Hey Mister”, this heaven among other irritations is very expensive to be on.
The Cheaper Paradise
Java which is entirely volcanic, on the other hand is packed with spectacular views, a long backbone of volcanoes, tropical jungles, beaches, a haunting presence of most of the major civilizations and a population engrossed in their own daily affairs, is exquisitely sensuous. It is one of the more generous spots on earth. Java is paradise but not a tourist one.
Yes there are five star comforts to be sure in the cities. The infrastructure is simple or practical in the lovely interiors. No five star accommodation. Two stars at best, if any at all. In these parts “sights” are left to fend for themselves without even the support of a soft-drink kiosk. The people are busy at day-to-day living. They may spare you a hesitant smile but wouldn't know how to call out “Hey Mister.” The Gods charge visitors very little on this paradise. But promise a most gratifying experience.
One Great Buffet
It may sound a bit of a rugged experience. In truth it is not. For example, take a traveler's basic need, food. There are no starred restaurants but the food is fabulous. Breakfast is usually chicken porridge, “bubur ayam”, in Central Java.
Available at carts or little rudimentary” cafés”. Delicious with boiled rice, pepped up with backyard spices, fortified with herbs and sprinkled with bits of chicken (organic of course). Washed down with superb tea (leaves plucked and cured down the road), this meal will cost you sixty cents. Java is really one large buffet.
Every street offers carts, shacks, shelters, café's canteens and restaurants with mind boggling variety of foods. Java is one of Indonesia's 17,000 islands. Yet it, not only offers food from almost every one of the islands but also from every town and city in Java. There is Bandung Satay, Padang Satay, Ox Tail stewed, fried or curried from all over, Madura Noodles, fantastically spicy Menado dishes, local versions of beef jerky,Acheh Fried Noodles, Fried Rices from almost everywhere with almost anything for ingredients; the list is endless.
Like a buffet at the Four Seasons, you just walk along and make your choices. If you are a big eater it may cost to a princely sum of six dollars.
While poverty exists in Java, thirty percent exist on $2 a day; a traveler will not come across anyone starving. For two reasons, Java is bountifully fertile. Two dollars does help, if a little, to buy food. There is also another reason; Javanese, whatever the world perceives their faults maybe, are extraordinarily philanthropic. They give recklessly.
Strictly Not For Tourists
Java, though rich with “sights,” is not a “sight-seeing” destination. Java is not for tourists who come to relax. Java is for travelers who are eager to know. Earliest arrivals in Java were the Hominids. The cranial fossil of the Java Man, about five million years old, was unearthed in 1891. More recent visitors were Ptolemy and Marco Polo. The former a geographer and the latter a professional traveler probably hit upon Java by accident. History, maybe folk tales record, that they were impressed and surprised.
Whatever they, or subsequent celebrity visitors may say of this island, the best thing about Java is its lack of pretense. A striking contrast to its aggressive brand dedicated (not always accurate) neighbors. Java is Java. Home of almost every spice, clove and herb known. Every natural cure heard and unheard of.
Home of the most imaginative food and beverage recipes in the world.
Home of intriguing batik haute couture. Home of exciting cocoa. The world's biggest manufacturers of quality shirts. Home of numerous spirits, benevolent and malevolent. Island of the most volcanoes, active and dormant, in the world. Place where some really awful films are made. Regrettably because Java is probably home of the very first cinemas, the “shadow plays” theatres of centuries past. In Central Java, now showing, at various locations, is the longest running play in the world, “Ramayana”; first performance sometime in the sixth century?
