One building would light up in fluorescent pink and then others would follow suit, changing color every few minutes, lighting up the dark sky. The irony is that the buildings are mundane by day; a bank, an electricity company, but by night, they perform in a world class show. Blue, red, gold, green followed each other to the beat of the music. By the time it ended, the cluster of tourists was left in an awestruck hush at what they had seen. The show is certainly not environmentally friendly because it uses up vast amounts of electricity every night but it is one of the few cases of a worthwhile use of energy.
Food was lavish. Generally, we ate noodles from a nearby café for breakfast, or dim sum, which was drowned in soy sauce. Afternoon tea at the peninsula hotel is a must though. The Peninsula hotel is the most elegant and expensive hotel in Kowloon. The lobby is plush and covered in gilt and the visitor can watch the front door where illustrious guests glide through fresh from Mercedes and Bentleys. Eating cucumber sandwiches in Hong Kong reminds one of its colonial past. The sandwiches were served with crisp breakfast tea and dainty cakes. Chinese food is delicious and extremely healthy but I have to confess to craving a bacon sandwich with brown sauce by the end of the ten days!
The Ten thousand Buddha monastery lies in the northern part of Kowloon. It took us five metro stops to get to the general area. We were then flummoxed as on the map it looks very close to the metro but we couldn't find it. We went into Chinese real estate agents where we asked some helpful realtors. They wrote the Chinese symbols for the monastery on a piece of paper so we could show it to a taxi driver.
To our amusement, it turned out that the monastery was very far away indeed from the metro station contrary to what the guidebook said. Once we arrived, we found ourselves in a small forest at the base of a hill. We could see macaque monkeys bounding through the trees. It was a family group. A baby macaque swung from a branch by his tail and peered at us. My good friend Rupali told me that a monkey once bit her in India, so I was a trifle nervous of them even though they looked like cuddly monkey toys.
I decided to make a wide berth between the monkeys and hurried up the steps to the monastery. My fears were justified as I soon saw a sign that said "Do not tease or feed the monkeys". My imagination created all kinds of scenarios where innocent day-trippers were attacked by rabid monkeys. I hurried up the steps faster.
The stairs to the monastery were ancient cracked stone and on each side of them stood numerous large gold Buddha statues. Each Buddha had his own personality and facial expression. There was the jolly Buddha, the sad Buddha, the Buddha with a beard, the naughty Buddha, etc… Each one held an offering of a white biscuit in his hand with a red marking on it. The sheer number of the Buddhas is impressive. They follow one all the way up the steps. At the top, there is a selection of little temples and one large courtyard which has a view of the surrounding forests and apartment buildings. At either side of the courtyard are a giant elephant statue and a dog. In the middle is an ornate tower. The visitor can go inside and climb up to the top.
Inside the tower and indeed everywhere around the courtyard were fragrant offerings of incense, oranges and biscuits. The main temple has a beautiful curvaceous roof. Inside, it is dark except for the fact that it is lit up by the thousands of tiny Buddha statues that line its walls in small compartments. They are arranged from the floor to the ceiling. They dazzle the eyes. The color scheme of the walls is dominated by rich red with a velvet texture.
In the middle of the temple is a statue of Tin Hau, the Hong Kong God of the sea, with a treasure trove of offerings in front of him ranging from chocolate to every imaginable kind of fruit. The color and vibrancy of Buddhist temples reminds the visitor of a jewelery box filled with treasures. The peace and tranquility of the buildings lulls one into calm. I liked watching worshipers rhythmically swaying their incense in front of the Buddha. The scent of the incense is heady and soporific.
We spent a long time just sitting in the courtyard looking out over the valley and listening to monks chanting in the sunlight. It was the first sunny day of the trip and the Buddhas and I were basking in the heat. We took many photos of the monastery but none seem to do it justice.
It's a place I keep returning to in my mind, so enchanted was I by the simplicity and peace and as I reluctantly wedged myself into my seat for the fourteen hour flight home, I still considered myself glad that I had the opportunity to explore a part of the world which was both foreign and familiar to me.
