Tunisia is a land steeped in history and exceptional landscapes. The desert, stark and dramatic contrasts vividly with the long, golden breaches and azure blue of the Mediterranean Sea. The forbidding scenery of the Sahara hides a multitude of spellbinding and unexpected backdrops - exotic Oasis framed by groves of palm trees loaded with wonderful succulent dates, or the fascinating, surreal troglodyte underground houses at Matmata. In the coast, the fishing harbors are dotted with brightly painted boats, as the fishing fleet bobs gracefully in the gentle breezes. The countryside is scattered with magnificent Roman ruins culminating with the splendor of the ancient city of Carthage and the incredible Coliseum of El Jem. Timeless, ancient Medina still echo to the cries of the street vendors as they have done unceasingly for generations…today, their labyrinthine alleyways are overflowing with small shops, bursting to the seams with latest "must have" holiday souvenir!
I stayed in Sousse, which turned out to be an excellent base for getting out and about in Tunisia. However, if all you want is to relax on the beach and wander the shops then Sousse is ideal as everything is at hand. The long golden beaches, shaded by palm sunshades, provided by the hotels, are very relaxing. Some hotels provide free sun loungers, others charge; either way, if you want to spend the day on the beach or beside a hotel pool you need, particularly in the high season, to get down early to stakeout your spot. Water sports are offered by most of the hotels and the more intrepid of holidaymakers can paraglide from the beach, jet-ski or even take a camel ride along the sands. There are a few beach touts trying to sell their trinkets, some are quite determined but will disappear eventually if totally ignored!
The majority of the hotels are on the outskirts of the town, but a cheap and efficient taxi and bus service takes you quickly into Sousse itself, or you can take a more relaxed ride into the town on the “Noddy” train. Sousse is centered on the Medina, a walled inner City packed with a maze of narrow streets overflowing with small shops and stalls - a real shoppers dream! Haggling and bartering are the order of the day and everyone has great satisfaction when an agreeable price is struck. If you don't like haggling then there are stores with fixed prices for goods. It's often a good idea to pop into one of these first to check out the prices before entering upon a tough stint of bargaining. Leather handbags and purses were good value. Local ceramic ware was cheap but jewellery needed care as quality was at times questionable. One of the best buys without doubt were local carpets however you need a will of steel to get away from the carpet touts if you dare to hint you might be interested in purchasing. For a fun experience it is worth listening to the sales pitch!
The oldest monument in the Medina is The Ribat, built at the end of the 8th century AD. A flight of stairs leads to the top of the watchtower giving wonderful views over the ancient Medina. The inner courtyard is the only part of the Great Mosque opened to non-Muslims but is worth visiting for that incredible feeling of history. Cafes and restaurants are dotted all over the Medina and city offering everything from burgers to couscous. The local food is excellent and worth trying particularly for quick snacks. Try the "Brik", a triangular envelope of crispy pastry usually stuffed with runny, lightly cooked egg and tuna.
Sousse has a thriving commercial and fishing port and there is a pleasant walk along the front to view the boats but take care, as you have to walk across the main railway line before reaching the harbor side. A small museum, full of Roman Mosaics and artifacts is a fascinating and delightful cooling place to visit on a hot Tunisian afternoon. It is a haven of peace and tranquility after the noisy confines of the Souk!
Not far from Sousse is the modern, purpose built, lively Marina complex of Port El Kantaoui crammed full of expensive yachts. Apartments, shops offering traditional handicrafts, numerous cafes and restaurants vying for your business, surround it. The seafood here was superb - so fresh that it nearly leapt off the plate! As the owner of one restaurant told me, “No fish landed then no menu!” The Port was, I thought, pricey and very crowded but with the sun shining and the clatter of halyards on the chic yachts all could be forgiven. From here boat trips can be taken in a variety of craft galleons, a yellow submarine or a more sober catamaran for the less adventurous. Port El Kantaoui also boasts a fine golf course and a plethora of up market hotels.
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